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  #16  
Old 04-24-2014, 05:29 PM
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I had the unwillingness to shift up problem with my '80 300td, with a .117 installed.

It was a sticking governor.

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2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22
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  #17  
Old 04-24-2014, 06:21 PM
fashion victim immunizer
 
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i have a 722.120, has both vacuum modulator and control -rod-
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  #18  
Old 04-25-2014, 12:58 AM
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Forgot to grab the number...but no change and now I have the euro back together good enough to drive.....man I forgot how power the euro had compared to the US...i can get up to 80 in no time...place can climb a hill at 65...where as the 78 had me going at 45 if I was lucky...

Well I guess next thing, to do is to start researching how to get to the governor, tools that I will need, where to buy one etc..

If anyone has a DIY or the FSM procedure...please share...

Perhaps the governor being bad, has been causing the hard shifts that I would feel, especially when cold...and maybe my burnt fluid issue..
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  #19  
Old 04-25-2014, 03:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepstar View Post
i have a 722.120, has both vacuum modulator and control -rod-
That was factory fitted to the W116 300SD

Quote:
Originally Posted by cooljjay View Post
Forgot to grab the number...but no change and now I have the euro back together good enough to drive.....man I forgot how power the euro had compared to the US...i can get up to 80 in no time...place can climb a hill at 65...where as the 78 had me going at 45 if I was lucky...

Well I guess next thing, to do is to start researching how to get to the governor, tools that I will need, where to buy one etc..

If anyone has a DIY or the FSM procedure...please share...

Perhaps the governor being bad, has been causing the hard shifts that I would feel, especially when cold...and maybe my burnt fluid issue..
Start from about post #27

722.118 Automatic transmission rebuild (Monster DIY)

However before you pull it to bits consider this

1) It is ALWAYS best to make some pressure measurements before you pull things to pieces (if you don't want to start a big project!)

2) When you remove the tail cone section from a 722.1 transmission you really need to make sure the shim position of the gear set is correct => everything is measured from the back end. If you just remove and replace there is a danger that one of the little needle roller bearings falls out of whack in the gear set and you'll end up buggering more stuff up!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #20  
Old 04-25-2014, 03:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post

However before you pull it to bits consider this

1) It is ALWAYS best to make some pressure measurements before you pull things to pieces (if you don't want to start a big project!)

2) When you remove the tail cone section from a 722.1 transmission you really need to make sure the shim position of the gear set is correct => everything is measured from the back end. If you just remove and replace there is a danger that one of the little needle roller bearings falls out of whack in the gear set and you'll end up buggering more stuff up!
Ah crap....this is going to be one of them pita projects....

I would take pressure readings, but we know there is something messed up in the tail end of the trans, so the only way to figure that out....is to take it off and inspect whats inside correct?

There is a 83 300D and 300SD in the yard, any chance the tail end of one of those trans will bolt onto mine?

I have never ever ever done any type of transmission work, and I am so afraid i will bugger it up and be forced to buy a new trans, that I can't even afford...
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  #21  
Old 04-25-2014, 05:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cooljjay View Post
Ah crap....this is going to be one of them pita projects....

I would take pressure readings, but we know there is something messed up in the tail end of the trans, so the only way to figure that out....is to take it off and inspect whats inside correct?

There is a 83 300D and 300SD in the yard, any chance the tail end of one of those trans will bolt onto mine?

I have never ever ever done any type of transmission work, and I am so afraid i will bugger it up and be forced to buy a new trans, that I can't even afford...
The '83 300D and the 300SD (assuming W126) should have 722.3s in them - so you then need torque converter + bowden cable + throttle linkage bits

The problem is you are now at one of those cross roads

Is the speedo related or separate? (Probably related but we don't know)

Could it be something simple we haven't seen yet?

You are best off looking and measuring at this stage in the game.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #22  
Old 04-25-2014, 02:34 PM
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Well I don't think I will be going in seeing what is wrong with the trans, I suppose I can get the stuff to measure the pressure..

I just checked and the governor is priced at $688.00.....I really really believe that the governor is the issue...

Since I got the car running about three years ago, I had a big issue with high reeves and hard shifting...I cured it a bit with linkage adjustment, correct fluid level and the pressure rod bushing....but I still had a hard 2 to 3 shift...the trans was rebuilt in 2002 and I remember the receipt(lost in fire can't check now) saying that all the bands, clutches and gaskets were replaced...the shop never changed the rotted mount, missing bushing or bad NSS....I am now thinking the governor was the issue, requiring the owner to look for a rebuild...

So to the cross rods.....what to do with the car? Look for the correct trans? upgrade to a newer non turbo auto? Manual setup?

I don't want to junk the car, as I do really like it....but she burns oil, suspension sags...calipers need rebuilding...etc....

I hate these cross roads
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  #23  
Old 04-25-2014, 03:28 PM
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Bummer Jay

i guess there'll come a time we'll all have to face this tough choice
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  #24  
Old 04-25-2014, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cooljjay View Post
I just checked and the governor is priced at $688.00.....I really really believe that the governor is the issue...
Ok but bear in mind that when I said the problem on mine was the governor, nothing had to be replaced. It was sticking and the shop freed it up. The only part was the gasket for the tailshaft and the shop made one as they got some stupid price quoted when they tried to order one.

Even if you do need a part, I am sure someone can come up with a used one.

Just to confirm: your car has a vacuum modulator, or the mechanical one I posted about earlier in this thread?
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2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22
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  #25  
Old 04-26-2014, 12:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zacharias View Post
Ok but bear in mind that when I said the problem on mine was the governor, nothing had to be replaced. It was sticking and the shop freed it up. The only part was the gasket for the tail shaft and the shop made one as they got some stupid price quoted when they tried to order one.

Even if you do need a part, I am sure someone can come up with a used one.

Just to confirm: your car has a vacuum modulator, or the mechanical one I posted about earlier in this thread?
Mine is the mechanical one.

The transmission has a few other issues too....the shaft the pressure rod attaches to that goes into the trans...is also leaking fluid and I read that the trans needs to be disassembled to replace that...and the fluid is burnt again....I am assuming a stuck governor wouldn't cause this...

I hate to make a decisions like this, but it may be time to let this ol silver girl be laid to rest...

She burns a quart of oil every 300 miles....has very bad blow by....I was going to try to replace the valve stem seals to see if this cured this but have read it is not likely the issue....

I won't be getting any funds for a long time, so I have time to decide the course of action...
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  #26  
Old 04-26-2014, 01:16 AM
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Danger! Danger! Danger!

This is a forum so there will be a lot of arm chair diagnosis - that's OK up to a point but at some time or other someone actually has to go and take a proper look and ideally make some measurements.

Cooljjay you've already talked yourself into doom and depression - take a deep breath and go have a look see
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #27  
Old 04-26-2014, 01:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
Danger! Danger! Danger!

This is a forum so there will be a lot of arm chair diagnosis - that's OK up to a point but at some time or other someone actually has to go and take a proper look and ideally make some measurements.

Cooljjay you've already talked yourself into doom and depression - take a deep breath and go have a look see
hehehe you are so true!

I will go and take a deep breath...

My two main things putting in my doom and depression...is I have never worked on a trans before! and then....the oil burning going on in the engine...

Then the power difference between my euro and her...here lately, I have just noticed my oil pressure not even getting up to 30psi when idling and when started not even wanting to peg...the euro pegs at 4 right away and stays at 40.....I am getting to a point, that it feels like I am just putting band aid after band aid on her....I feel I really need to tear both the engine and trans to pieces and put it together correctly..
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  #28  
Old 04-27-2014, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cooljjay View Post
My two main things putting in my doom and depression...is I have never worked on a trans before! and then....the oil burning going on in the engine...
I remember you stuck with this car well after most people would have thrown in the towel, back when you were trying to get it started.

There is a line somewhere between stubbornness and insanity that we sometimes have to cross in order to drive these old cars.

Time for you to cross it anew, as it relates to pulling the tailshaft off and having a look. You have the unique advantage of Stretch being here, who has BTDT.
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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22
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  #29  
Old 04-27-2014, 05:14 PM
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Location: Middle TN
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Perhaps buy a part a car with good engine and trans? I also mess with oldDatsun Z cars. We trash cars that would be considered gold in the Z world. I have a late 84SD that is almost whole that I'm thinking of selling. Too many projects. Good engine, no reverse.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.
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  #30  
Old 04-27-2014, 07:03 PM
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Your right....I will most likely pull the tail end and see whats up....damage is done...what else can be damaged right? Well besides the car falling on my head

That is another option I was looking at...finding one with a good engine and trans..

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