I have not tried to move the timing gear, so I don't know if it is possible or if it will work for you.

I do know that if you remove the IP and reinstall it correctly, that will work.

Replace the pins for the chain guides
Put the tensioner back in (I am not certain if it is nessesary, but you don't want the chain to jump a tooth anywhere)
Turn the engine, by hand, to 15 degrees after TDC
Remove the tensioner
Remove the IP
Set the IP with the timing ridge in the center of the viewing port and lock it in that position
Install the IP shaft into the timing gear
Secure the IP to the block with the 3 bolts, do not tighten them
Put the tensioner back in
Turn the engine, by hand, to 15 degrees after TDC ( I usually turn it over twice )
Check that the timing ridge is in the center of the viewing port, or, is close enough to be set correctly with the available adjustment of the IP

If not, repeat until you get it right.

thanks for the instruction. I have not removed an injection pump before and have always avoided it. was hoping that I might get away with it this time but this will be a good learning experience and should go smoothly.

A mechanic at the dealer said that I would need to remove the pump to do the gear swap job because the new gears teeth would be new and unworn so the timing will be off anyway.

What I do whenever playing with timing related parts is pull the battery cable so there is no chance of a crank other than by hand.

I am OK if someone wants to do that.
In theory you are supposed to disconnect the Battery anytime you work on the Car and are not doing something that you need the Battery for; for safety.

On (some?) gassers disconnecting the Battery clears your Computer/ECM.
Posting the sign is for My own personal situation. I could easily connect the re-connect the Cable prematurely and forget that I still should not Crank and end up cranking when I am not supposed to.

The Sign also works for other things. When I did the front end alinement I used a Screw to lock the Steering Box and center it.

I did not want the Steering Wheel moved at all for fear of scoring up the Postion inside of the Steering Box. The Steering Wheel can be moved reguardless of the Engine cranking or running.

The sprocket teeth would have to be worn severely to cause any measurable difference in IP timing. Chain stretch can cause 1-2° of timing change, but you could probably not detect much (if any) change in engine operation with ±2° difference. Sprocket wear is not common, I wouldn't worry about that.

:chinese2:

Back again hijacking your thread.
RE: 606.912 vacuum pump/timing gear replacement.

I made a copper pipe modified IP lock and finally on the third try, verified by turning the engine by hand twice, that the pump was in time. The notch inside the governor is visible through the viewing port at +15 past TDC and the timing marks are clearly visible.

Put it all back together and no start.

Now I can see that no fuel is being delivered. The fuel line at cylinder 1 is dry as was the fuel filter after cranking many times. Have been charging the battery after 2 or 3 starting attempts.

When learning how to remove the pump, we attempted to remove the cable harness on the pump by removing the retaining clip and pulling on it. The harness started to work out of the housing for an inch then became too hard to pull and we learned that it can not be removed because it is part of the pump.

Questions: is it possible that the wires were unplugged? and if so can they be repaired?
How are the pumps electronics tested, can I use an electric meter?

The car is not showing any codes; should it if the pumps electronics are damaged?

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thanks for your time.

I hope you didn't pull too hard. Photo below of the internals, more pics at this link.

:(

http://www.w124performance.com/image...962_pump19.jpg

if I pulled too hard, would it cause a no start, no fuel delivery situation?

I would not worry about the wires until you are sure that there is fuel being delivered to the IP.

Fill your fuel filter.

Apply a vacuum to the output of the fuel filter until you have fuel coming out of it and no air.

It will start when you get fuel to the IP.

You can mist WD-40 into the intake as starting fluid. (I am not sure if it is the WD-40, or the propellant gas, that helps it start.)

I have just filled the fuel filter with fuel. It was more than half empty when I checked it this morning after many starting attempts.
Will try vacuum and wd40 now.
thanks

tried the wd40 and it started. Happy for a moment but it seems to be running on the wd40 when it shuts down the fuel line going into the pre-filter leaks down with an air bubble immediately. Its always done this and I have tried many things to stop it happening including a check valve at the steel line at the firewall where the main line comes in.

Forget the check valve. That is just attempting to mask a problem.

You need to find out where air is leaking into your fuel lines.

When I had this type of problem on this model car I got a cheap ($35) low pressure (3 - 5 psi) electric fuel pump and installed it in the fuel line at the firewall hard line. Within a minute after turning the pump on I found the leak. Best $35 I spent.

there is only one stop between the hard line and the pre-filter and that fuel hose was replaced a couple of years ago but that line leaked down then as well, as long as I can remember it has leaked down. Now however it is leaking down fast.

On another note in this tragedy, when I was sucking out the line with the Mighty Vac (many bubbles were coming and I think they all cleared) the Mighty Vac had a major blow out handle came apart and the piston rod started squirting fuel. Nice.

The fuel looks dark, may have the fungus in the rtank after sitting for soo long.

By your user ID I gather that you run alternate fuels. If any of these fuels got into your diesel tank, then you may have a clogged strainer.

Something "just installed" a couple of years ago may no longer be "just installed". Check everything.

The O-ring on the pre-filter gives people fits sometimes.

Put a clean piece of hose on the fuel source line and blow on it. If you are not a smoker, you should be able to blow 5 to 8 psi. That might be enough to find the leak.

Be happy that the IP is installed correctly and the car will run when you can get it some fuel on a regular basis.

thanks. and now for the rain.