DIY IP timing lock
 

I swapped out the IP on my W210 606.912 N/A for the IP from a 603.970 that I had lying around.
I needed to lock the IP timing for installation.
I did not have the locking tool and did not want to wait for it.
So I made my own.

1 5/16" long piece of 3/8" od (1/4" id) soft copper tubing.
A notch cut to fit over and hold the timing ridge in place.
The body of the plug for the timing port is hollow up to the head. The copper tube fits inside it.

Get the timing ridge in the center of the port.
Install the tube so the notch catches the ridge.
Screw the plug on over the tube just a little bit tighter then finger tight.

What are you doing about a throttle cable? Are you using the VCV on the IP or the one by the brake booster?

Sixto
MB-less

I'd make sure there's a way to extract the lock if it gets stuck in the port such as if the IP sprocket turns and deforms the soft copper.

Sixto
MB-less

If you did something really stupid, like try to start the engine with the timing lock in place, you would be in trouble with either my copper tube or the factory lock.


For a throttle cable, I went out in the woods and found a W124. I pulled the hood latch cable and the end of the throttle cable. The end of the throttle cable has a provision for adjusting the length so you can adjust the "at rest" point of the cable. I attached the hood latch end of the cable to the throttle arm on the IP. I installed the adjustable end of the throttle cable in the fire wall. I attached the cable end to one of the arms that is activated by the foot throttle in the brake booster area. It took me about an hour from harvesting parts to having a working throttle. The only thing I lost is the cruise control.

Nice work,

What was wrong with the original IP that prompted the conversion?

:boat:

The original IP had one of those fancy computers running it ;)

-J

hope to hear that some 8mm elements are in your future :-)

Definitely. My point is the copper tool could get you in trouble when turning the engine by hand to confirm IP timing or when holding the chain to tighten the sprocket bolt.

And dynamic idle control through the ELR actuator. You can turn up base idle to get around that if necessary.

How does the 606.912 governor limit compare with the 603.97?

Sixto
MB-less

the 3.5L govener would be set over 1500 rpm lower (the 3.5 is over and done at 4100 rpm, IIRC the 606 will rev to 5500?).

-J

You should not attempt to turn the IP, or the engine with the IP installed, if you have any kind of lock on the IP. The copper tube will get you in no more trouble then the factory tool. It should only be used to hold the IP timing in place until the IP shaft splines are engaged in the timing gear's splines.

I need to start a separate thread on the 606/ 603 IP swap. I have only driven the car 5 miles since the swap. I will drive it about 80 miles tomorrow and have a better idea of how it runs with that IP. I already know that it can over fuel the N/A engine.

Thread on IP swap: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/354385-ip-swap-603-ip-into-606-engine.html#post3325137

I have been replacing the vacuum pump and timing gear on a W210 OM606.912 and have managed to reassemble the car but the injection timing is off. The car tried to start after the fuel delivery and fumbled and died.
Today I disassembled the engine again, painfully after 3 months, and am at the point of removing the injection pump.
Question is can I visually time the pump correctly? Will I need too bring it in to someone with the digital tools in order to get it right?
I believe that I installed the timing gear a spline or two off, may be more.
Now I cannot get the basket to hold the gear or the locking tool. Will try the wooden dowel method to lock the pump and have an assistant hold the gear in place tomorrow. Do you think that this will work?
Thank you for your time.

Actually the real Timing Locking Pin does have some protection if the Engine was run with it installed.
The sides of the Tool Punger is beveled and the Plunger is spring loaded also the groove in the Tool is rather shallow. Lastly it dose not take much rotation of the Tool and nothing is going into the slot.

I know that you are happy with the results but I am wondering which is more accurate. Yours or the regular timing Pin?

I don't know if I was stupid enough but I was certainly tired enough that I started a CAT Engine with Steel Timing Pin in the Fuel Injection Pump.
On that particular model it shears a tiny 1/8" pin off of the Timing Gear when you do that. However, to replace the Pin you need to pull the whole Front Cover of the Engine off. My Boss was no pleased.

What I have done since that time is to put a Sign on the Steering Wheel to remind Me not to Crank the Engine when I don't want that to happen.

My experience is limited to 3 IP swaps on a 601, 603, and 606. (Actually 4 times, because I had to redo one.) I was able check the timing by seeing that the timing ridge was centered in the viewing port. After the IP was installed, I rotated the engine twice, by hand, back to 15 degrees after TDC before I checked. My experience has been that if I have the crank in the proper position, and the IP lock in it's proper position, that once installed, the IP will be within the adjustment available of correct timing. On the one that I had to redo, the IP lock slipped out of time before shaft was in the gear.


Many times around here I have found that the weak link in any system is the point of human interface. That seems to be where it all goes horribly wrong....

thanks for your reply.
The car is scattered around in many pieces again, (while I try to fend off the curious horse) the chain tensioner is removed and the vacuum pump is as well, the bolt is removed from the timing gear and the pins are pulled from the upper chain guide and from the side of the timing gear. In your opinion, is it possible to loosen the cam gear and hold by hand while a friend pushes the chain to the side in order to remove the timing gear and the replace it in the correct position? Or do I need to remove the injection pump to get the splines aligned? And if I do remove the IP can I hold the gear in place by hand while replacing the pump?