I stupidly did a ton of research on single stage paints before going to talk to a few paint shops. I learned all about ppg concept and how great it is. I learned which hardener to use and whether to add clear coat to the final spray and was convinced this was the paint for me. My fall back option was Glasurit Line 22 (their single stage urethane). Unfortunately, ppg concept is no longer sold in CA (at least in any of the 10 paint shops I called across central and southern CA). And it appears that Glasurit line 22 is also not sold. So my original research, while thorough, managed to miss that key detail.

After talking to the primary local auto paint vendor, I learned that locally there are only two single stage paints sold. Nason, (duponts low cost/quality line) and Limco (basf's low cost/quality line). It makes no sense to me to use a low cost paint for this project. It won't be a show car, but I want my 3 y.o. to drive this car someday, so saving a few bucks on a gallon of economy paint isn't a value to me.

So that brought me to fleet paint. It turns out that there are high quality fleet paints (single stage) still sold in my area. PPG Delfleet is the one that has my eye right now. They have two lines, evolution and essential, and I would probably go with evolution simply because it is a longer lasting paint. Apparently, it is a very strong/hard paint which makes sanding it after the fact difficult. But I am not looking for perfection. Just a shiny, somewhat attractive protection from rain, rust, etc.

The PPG Delfleet color matching computer system apparently is different from their automotive paint lines. I would be able to get auto paint in 181 Light Beige, but the PPG Delfleet vendor did not have any record of that code. So I think, if I decide to put fleet paint on my car, I have two options:
1) bring them a piece of the car to scan the color (which I don't like because my car is so sun faded)
or
2) just pick a color from their color wheel and hope it looks good full size on my car (which I don't like because I never find a 2" square of color to be large enough to decide what a car (or bedroom for that matter) should look like.

Anyway, that is why I am asking about finding access to accurate paint chips/samples in these colors. If I had a sample that i knew was accurate, I would be more comfortable getting it scanned at the shop.

Even with a paint code in hand, I manage to make a simple task difficult.

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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission.
My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear).

It is becoming very difficult to find any good quality paint in Calif. They are putting the kabosh on everything. It seems that these water base paints are what are being pushed. The paint shops have had to change all their painting methods and equipment.

Maybe check with some PPG vendors in Arizona or Nevada, out of state you might be able to find what you need. Having it shipped might be a problem because it would be a hazardous material. I know in the Bay Area they have really tightened down but I was able to find some PPG paint just south of me. That was a couple years ago though.

Automotive paint is expensive enough, don`t cheapen out on the front end, and then later feel like you shot your self in the foot if it doesn`t hold up, or the end results aren`t quite what you expected.

Single stage paint will look good years later where Clear Coat will be pealing and the vehicle looks crappy. with a single stage, just give it a coat of wax, and she will be shinning like new.

I painted the 85 Astrial Silver and Clear Coat, and it has fallen apart, and I used PPG. I have been wondering if there is a Silver that is single stage for next time I shoot her.

I painted the Datsun PU back in the 90`s with PPG Deltron. all I have to do is give her a coat of wax/cleaner and my hands are red, but she shins like the day I first painted her. That is another good paint we can`t get anymore.


Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Correct. That's why I hope to never buy a metallic painted car or any other form of base coat clear coat ever again. My 82 240D, "hell elfenbein" - light Ivory, which I believe is the same color as the OP's car, looked great after a bit of elbow grease.

I would definitely keep this car the original color, and single stage.

- Peter.

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2021 Chevrolet Spark
Formerly...
2000 GMC Sonoma
1981 240D 4spd stick. 347000 miles. Deceased Feb 14 2021
2002 Kia Rio. Worst crap on four wheels
1981 240D 4spd stick. 389000 miles.
1984 123 200
1979 116 280S
1972 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
1971 108 280S

If you ask me I'd say to beige!

Don't be so quick to judge the paint when it's not in its optimal condition. Perhaps somebody can post your car's paint color to show its potential.

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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg

I don't like the colour when it is old and uncared for. It looks especially bland - I know it kind of masks bird **** but that in a way is my point.

Problem is a whole colour change is a lot more involved.

I'd stick with the original but spend a lot of time wet sanding and fluffing and puffing it up to a luxurious deep shine with some shiny chrome and euro bumpers to match

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I would argue that even the worst factory color is better than a partial repaint.

Tastes change. Beige is back!

Original, Unrestored '68 Porsche 911 Just Wants to Run | Petrolicious

Since I last posted on this thread, I have spent countless hours trying to figure out what my car used to look like. Kind of silly sounding, I know. But the paint samples I bought from paintscratch.com are clearly not the same color as my car. Their version of 181 H Grey Beige (aka Light Beige) is simply too grey, and not enough beige. Looking at photos online and at unfaded parts of my own car, there is simply no way that their version of my car color is accurate. Oh well.

I contacted Tom Hanson at the MB classic center to see if they could sell me a small quantity of paint, but he said it would be best to contact BASF (who owns Glasurit).

Unfortunately, nobody sells their high quality Line 22 single stage paint in CA (it appears). I have contacted BASF and if I hear of anyone who sells glasurit 22-line single stage paint in (or to) California, I will post again.

So basically, the most trustworthy source of the correct color (Glasurit) does not seem to sell the type of paint anymore where I live. And ppg concept (another good single stage paint) is not available. Given that paintscratch.com got the color wrong (and they sell ppg paint), I don't know how I could trust any rep of PPG to get it right. ARRRGGGGHHHHH.

I saw an old VW Beetle yesterday where it looks like they clearcoated over faded and rusty paint, which actually looked very cool. Not sure how long it will last, or perhaps the rust will stop since it has no access to water or oxygen. Maybe that is my future. (just kidding).

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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission.
My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear).

How far off is the paint? You have to consider that the sample you got is (should) not be faded, but your car's paint definitely might.

On the other hand, there have been some EPA issues with paints used in our old cars and them no longer being available due to their original content. I don't have the details but it's something to do with being more environmentally-friendly. That said I'm curious how the Classic Center in Irvine does it.

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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg

i've seen that clear coat over surface rust and faded paint on some car restoration shows. i think it looks really cool.

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1981 NA 300D 310k miles

I repainted my 220D with Rustoleum and it came out decent and has held up well. I mixed a combination of gloss leather brown and black to get a color that was reasonably close to the original.

The rustoleum won't give you a mirror-glossy finish, but it's not bad quality stuff either. Most importantly, though, it's low cost and widely available. It cost me about $40 in materials (along with lots of time and effort) to paint the car.

Is getting the car painted out of state an option? Google Maps tells me the OP is roughly 430 road miles from either Reno or Vegas. I had my car painted by Dent Doctor in Reno about a year ago. They used a basecoat/clearcoat, but the color match is perfect, the car lives outside, and so far it's holding up. The price was considerably less than some other shops quoted me as well.

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 401,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 26,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.
99 Mazda Miata 183,xxx miles.

When comparing colors on paint chips, its important to use natural daylight; fluorescent light will give you a bluish tint, and incandescent light will impart an excess of red. So, outdoors, facing north is best.

To find your original color, I would look in the trunk under the plastic lip.

I contacted paintscratch.com to get their thoughts on the mismatch between my car and their paint, and they replied with:
"The paint on the vehicle now would not be close to the original, even in
the door jambs due to the age. Paint slowly loses the pigments over time."

If that is true, then perhaps their paint color is correct and none of my car can be used as a comparison. Do you agree with their statement?

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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission.
My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear).

Send a PM to jmk (bodywork + paint moderator)

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Dupont Centari. But you'll have to go to Phoenix to get it. Also ask your booth owner if you can shoot it there, if CARB checks it regularly you may not be able to shoot it anyway.

Centari is THE best single-stage paint. Get Mar-Hyde gloss hardener and you have the equivalent of urethane finish that will last more than 10 years outdoors. Even better, you can wet-sand and polish the day after shooting. It's easy to patch and blend, chip patch, and shines like glass. I've been using it for 40 years.

I was actually able to get a pint mixed and shipped over via my sister in Phoenix. It matches exactly to my 35 year old 'colorado beige' car. I wouldn't change the color for nuttin'. LOL.

Good luck and let us know how it goes. And you've gotten some good advice here - only color change if the car is completely stripped, otherwise it's a patched mess. The factory paints the cars before they finish them and that's the only way you can duplicate that.

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Chris Brown
"OC", So-Cal
1979 240D, 122K, 4spd, Colorado Biege w/Tobacco, Pwr Roof, AC, Cruise, Becker Corona - SOLD
Past Benzos: 71 250 • 83 240D • 84 190E • 04 C240 • 11 GLK350 • 13 c250 Coupe
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...ine=1276896801