Project Car: 1978 240D 4 speed "Uttini"
 

Reoccurring theme here guys....

Hard lines bubble out fuel at the injectors so hard lines primed - check
Starting fluid shot into each intake runner for 2 seconds - check
Glow plugs disconnected - check

Crank engine.....no start


Which relay under the dash is for the glow plugs?

The shop manual, section 15.4-505/13 specifies for a 616 with a key start pre glow system the preglow system uses a 50 amp fuse. I removed an 80 amp. I hope I didn't fry the glow relay

I cleaned all grounds for fun and checked and nothing happened, glow plug light is not burned out, all 4 plugs are not burned out(loop intact and I don't know how to test these like the pencil type)

Good news regarding the shifter. I guess cranking the car in gear must have freed up the internals of the transmission since rowing through the gears is as smooth as butter(well for a non cable shifted transmission). Nothing more satisfying than a clink as the transmission goes into gear.

Was there no signs of it trying to fire? If so, check IP timing (drip method?), chain stretch, valve timing. Have you done any of the above?

Found the 50 amp fuse in the karts catalogue. Going to see if napa has any. I have a feeling I fried the relay.

I'd love to drip time it but I don't have a spare injection line to cut up.

I guess I'll crank the valve cover off, line up the assembly marks and see what the crank reads. Valve timing I haven't a clue on how to check that.

You can buy a drip line cheap on Ebay. There is a thing called the FSM. Do you have one? In it there is a volume called Engine. Look up Engine timing or Injection timing and follow the procedures. At this point I am wondering if the IP was put in wrong or the IP is toast or the timing chain is in wrong? If you don't want to do any more investigation, start looking for a new engine.

Well I am looking through my FSM now.

I opened the glow relay and manually glowed the engine for a minute and cranked. After two tries it would sound like it wants to kick over but not then go back to not making that sound.

A friend is coming over and he has a pick up so I might see if we can tow start it. But at that point it's just going to verify I need to rebuild the engine.

I don't remember if you ever checked the lift pump or the fuel pressure relief valve. Both must be operational for the IP to deliver fuel.

Yeah, remember when I threw out the check valve like 10 pages back.

I replaced that and stretched the spring to 27mm

Project Car: 1978 240D 4 speed "Uttini"
 

Tried to tow start the car. Towed it in 2nd gear for two minutes -ish. Sounded like it was running but once I let it out of gear it would die. I had the key to the run position and everything.


So unless I screwed it up I think the engine is shot. My friend and I might just pull the head and see how it looks. I need a slide hammer to remove
The pins that hold the chain tail or something. I looked at it in the FSM

i think the low compression is from stuck rings from sitting so long. you need to get it running and leave it running for a very long time. you really need to be sure that injection pump is supplying the fuel to run the motor. remove the hard lines and crank it, fuel should shoot nicely from each delivery valve.

I'm going to do that tomorrow. It sounded like it was running while being towed until I let the clutch out and it died

Delivery valves 1 & 2 are not shooting out fuel like 3 & 4 are. They dribble fuel of anything and the other two shoot out jets that go up like 6' into the air.

So I think I found a major issue in why it won't start.....only took a month

Bummer, but at least you found a possible reason for the no start; hopefully that is all it is!

Feed it MMO instead of fuel from a bottle with the lines & DV guts out while turning the engine over and see if anything changes.

Every IP I've ever taken apart had some rust inside the DVs, you can clean them with scotch brite and reassemble.

Nothing to lose to try that! I'd add carb. cleaner to the MMO or use carb cleaner straight instead, clean the delivery valves and try starting it again.

Started the cleaning with a paper towel test as I call it.

Suspended a paper towel above the DV's and cranked. Only two squirted fuel onto the towel.

Removed the nipple, one at a time, removed spring, valve, and piston and cleaned with brake cleaner and wiped down. 1,2,&4 were stuck in their bore.# 3 came out without an issue, the others required a little coaxing with rubber tipped pliers.

Buttoned it all up and repeated the paper towel test. 4 dark splotches where fuel squirted out. Good

Put hard lines back on and bled them....aaaaand the battery died but all 4 have been bled. Glow,plugs still only work by manually pressing the contacts on the relay. Locating a battery charger so I can try and start her again tomorrow.