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  #1  
Old 02-05-2014, 11:19 AM
He/Him
 
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Driveshaft collapsing

I have a new drive shaft which I'm trying to install. In my haste I installed the Guibo on the transmission end and now I'm in the situation where I completely forgot the drive shaft needed to collapse a bit to install the differential end.

I've dropped the transmission mount and center bearing mount, but there's still not enough room. I'm not willing to drop the differential at this point because of how the car is sitting.

The large channel lock pliers I have won't grip either hex on the drive shaft. And my largest crescent wrench is just a few mm short of gripping the 41mm part. The chain wrench I have doesn't want to stay put either.

What else have people used? I'm not really wanting to buy a 41mm and 46mm wrench set, nor do I really want/need yet another crescent wrench.

If you ended up buying a tool, where did you get it?

.

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Last edited by whunter; 02-08-2014 at 08:06 AM. Reason: spelling
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  #2  
Old 02-05-2014, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martureo View Post
I have a new ds which I'm trying to install. In my haste I installed the guibo on the transmission end and now I'm in the situation where I completely forgot the driveshaft needed to collapse a bit to install the differential end.

I've dropped the transmission mount and center bearing mount, but there's still not enough room. I'm not willing to drop the differential at this point because of how the car is sitting.

The large channel lok pliers I have won't grip either hex on the ds. And my largest crescent wrench is just a few mm short of gripping the 41mm part. The chain wrench I have doesn't want to stay put either.

What else have people used? I'm not really wanting to buy a 41mm and 46mm wrench set, nor do I really want/need yet another crescent wrench.

If you ended up buying a tool, where did you get it?

Harbor Freight is your friend in need for cheap tools you'll only use one or two times.

That having been said, I borrowed one from a club when I needed to do mine.
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  #3  
Old 02-05-2014, 11:55 AM
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I bought a crow leg in the right size (41mm? - not at home to check) just for this task and it makes it easy - I use it along with a expandable-jaws type of wrench - I think I found the crow leg on fleabay.
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  #4  
Old 02-05-2014, 11:56 AM
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I got both wrenches on Ebay, used, for a song.
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  #5  
Old 02-05-2014, 11:58 AM
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When I have removed the DS from a vehicle, my own or in PNP, I usually leave the Flex Disk on the Trans and Diff. I also loosen the large 46mm Nut with a large Channel lock pliers while it is still mounted. So far haven`t had a problem with loosening the large nut as long as it is in gear and or the Parking Brake is on.

With the DS out of the vehicle, maybe get a couple of those large adjustable wrenches sold in the Plumbing Dept used for sinks. think they are $15 - $20 each


Get the Nut loose and then slide the DS in from the rear (both sections together) and fit it into the Trans. might have to start the center Support Bolts to hold it, (as I remember there are some slots in the bracket for movement) and then pry the Tri Flange to compress the DS and get it lined up on the read center pin.

Charlie
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  #6  
Old 02-05-2014, 12:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martureo View Post
I have a new ds which I'm trying to install. In my haste I installed the guibo on the transmission end and now I'm in the situation where I completely forgot the driveshaft needed to collapse a bit to install the differential end.

I've dropped the transmission mount and center bearing mount, but there's still not enough room. I'm not willing to drop the differential at this point because of how the car is sitting.

The large channel lok pliers I have won't grip either hex on the ds. And my largest crescent wrench is just a few mm short of gripping the 41mm part. The chain wrench I have doesn't want to stay put either.

What else have people used? I'm not really wanting to buy a 41mm and 46mm wrench set, nor do I really want/need yet another crescent wrench.

If you ended up buying a tool, where did you get it?
To lossen the Drivshaft Collar Nut I used a Chain type Pipe Wrench.

Before I installed it I had gone out and bought a big Comgination Wrench from a Cheapie Tool Place. There is an US size that matches.

Before you tighten up the Collar Nut you are supposed put the Car back on the Wheels and Trans in Neutral and push the Car Back and forth to center it and then tighten.

There is supposed to be a specific Torque on the Nut; but I did not do that.
I suppose the Chain Type Pipe Wrench could have been used to tighten it.

With the Car sitting on the Wheels I had trouble getting under there with a Wrench to tighten the Collar Nut (I did not use a Torque Wrench).

After you have the drive Shaft dropped check the Centering Bearings on each end for an out of round. If you re-use them there is supposed to be some grease into the inside diameter.

Like the other Member later I bought the proper open end wrench set on ebay. However, that won't allow you to use a Torque Wrench. The troque on the Collar not is not a heavy one.
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  #7  
Old 02-05-2014, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martureo View Post
...
I've dropped the transmission mount and center bearing mount, but there's still not enough room. I'm not willing to drop the differential at this point because of how the car is sitting.

...
You have to loosen and tighten the nuts on the propshaft so that the splines can move in and out so that you get the correct length - if you do not do this you'll end up with vibration trouble...

...ever read about the rolling it back and forward trick before tightening the mounts and the big nuts?

So the idea about removing the differential (or alternatively pulling out the engine!!!) won't help even if you do get it to fit.
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  #8  
Old 02-05-2014, 02:15 PM
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Assuming that the driveshaft nut has been recently moved and is not seized you can get an adjustable packing nut wrench at most places that sell plumbing stuff for $10-15 that will usually do the trick. Put the car in gear so the shaft won't freewheel or use a large screwdriver to jam it against the frame to keep from turning.

The 46 mm equivalent is 1 13/16" a 41 mm is the size of the flats on the shaft itself.

In all honesty you should be able to lever the driveshaft forwards enough to move it into place with a decent size pry bar, place the tip of the bar on one of the bolts already in place and lever against on lobe of the driveshaft, when I flat tow these cars that's how I disconnect the DS at the dif each time, I don't even bother to fool with the clamp nut or the carrier bearing. The bearing is in a flexible mount and the clamping nut is usually not all that tight so the spline just compresses a bit.
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Last edited by Obamalamadingdong; 02-05-2014 at 03:44 PM.
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  #9  
Old 02-05-2014, 02:58 PM
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Just drop the diff flex disk.
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  #10  
Old 02-06-2014, 08:53 AM
He/Him
 
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Thanks for all the responses.

I'll clarify again because there seems to be some confusion.

[Trans]{[Guibo]}======[center bearing]==================={ }[Diff]

This is how the driveshaft sits now. It is UNCONNECTED from the differential end. No guibo has been installed on that end, to either the diff or the driveshaft.

At this point it looks like HarborFright run as ebay wrenches are ~$30 ea.


And this is a rebuilt driveshaft from Portland Driveline. I'm assuming it's hard to loosen that nut because it was painted over.
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I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]
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  #11  
Old 02-06-2014, 11:41 AM
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Sunex WR 41MM OPN END CRFT SUN97441: Get the best Wrench Sets at Advance Auto Parts

heres a low cost solution.

With centre carrier loose the driveshaft should move back and forth a bit, infact the whole thing should be able to slide on the slip yoke. The torque is 25 lb/ft I believe. A chain wrench works too.
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  #12  
Old 02-07-2014, 03:38 PM
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I wrapped a oil filter can wrench around the slip collar nut. With the car in neutral my son turned the drive shaft at the diff end flex disk. Then in park I give the nut a good heave to finish the job.
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  #13  
Old 02-07-2014, 07:30 PM
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I've used 2 large crescent wrenches from Harbor Freight. I've also used Channelock pliers. Both of these come in handy for a few plumbing tasks, as well. To keep from grrr-ing the nut with channelocks, a quick wrap of duct tape helps.
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  #14  
Old 02-07-2014, 11:21 PM
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I just did a 4 speed swap on my CD and I used my pipe wrenches on said nut. These angled ones from HF are only $6.99.
14" Angled Pipe Wrench
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  #15  
Old 06-03-2014, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bt1211 View Post
I just did a 4 speed swap on my CD and I used my pipe wrenches on said nut. These angled ones from HF are only $6.99.
14" Angled Pipe Wrench
These fit up in there? Excuse the dumb question, but I don't really understand how this shaft works. These nuts do what exactly? The shaft extends and collapses, beyond just sliding on the splines?

Both drive lines I removed from my cars, just came out, because the shafts just slid back and forth on the splined connector. But, I had the manual shaft rebuilt, and now it doesn't move at all.

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