Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 06-18-2014, 08:17 PM
Graham's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,456
Quote:
Originally Posted by rgnprof View Post
And I should add that the passenger rear window does work...
How about the driver side rear? It is on the same circuit as the Passenger front.

This link may be of some help, although I don't think it provides the answer you are looking for.

Mercedes power window repair - Finninday

It does look like it is most likely the switch that is the problem.
__________________
Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 06-18-2014, 07:46 PM
Graham's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,456
Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
Graham, what year is your schematic for?
It is for the W123133 (as noted on schematic) This covers several years up to 1985.
__________________
Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-18-2014, 08:33 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 8,971
Quote:
Originally Posted by Graham View Post
It is for the W123133 (as noted on schematic) This covers several years up to 1985.
The only "133" that I see is the page number.

In any case, I have the 1982 Electrical Troubleshooting Manual; it's not the the same as your schematic. My terminal numbers might not be correct for an '84.
__________________
When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06-18-2014, 10:07 PM
Graham's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,456
Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
The only "133" that I see is the page number.

In any case, I have the 1982 Electrical Troubleshooting Manual; it's not the the same as your schematic. My terminal numbers might not be correct for an '84.
I admit is not clear just what that 133 means. I see in the later ETM that the power windows schematics are on pages 132 and 133, so you could be right.

Regardless, it seems I do have the later schematic too. If the switches have internal LED backlighting, then this schematic should be correct (it is for my 85)


__________________
Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 06-18-2014, 10:18 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 8,971
Quote:
Originally Posted by Graham View Post
I admit is not clear just what that 133 means. I see in the later ETM that the power windows schematics are on pages 132 and 133, so you could be right.
It's the page number. No doubt about it.
__________________
When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 06-18-2014, 05:04 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: West of Ft. Worth. TX
Posts: 4,186
Your readings are not unusual. These motors run on current through an inductive motor. The voltage will "appear" to drop to zero as the only resistance is the windings. The only true way to determine a problem is with an amp meter connected in series.

Both power and ground are switched...... through the switch itself. This is how the motor changes directions.

Most of the window switch problems I've had are dirty contacts (probably due to their location). Pulling and soaking in a cleaner, such as electrical contact cleaner, then drying them thoroughly has always resolved the problem.
__________________
Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 06-18-2014, 05:41 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 8,971
Quote:
Originally Posted by SD Blue View Post
Both power and ground are switched......
Only one terminal is switched (from power to ground) per switch actuation. The remaining terminal is not switched unless the switch is actuated in the opposite direction. (In which case the originally switched terminal isn't.)
__________________
When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 06-18-2014, 05:58 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: West of Ft. Worth. TX
Posts: 4,186
It's hard to explain. At rest, both sides of the motor are powered. Direction selects which side is removed from power and ground is applied to.


OOPs! please note reason for editing!
__________________
Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Last edited by SD Blue; 06-20-2014 at 01:44 PM. Reason: OOPs, I need to use a larger screen when looking at schematics! Sorry for adding confusion.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 06-18-2014, 06:46 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 8,971
Quote:
Originally Posted by SD Blue View Post
It's hard to explain. At rest, both sides of the motor are grounded. Direction selects which side is removed from ground and power is applied to.
If you select DN:
one side of the motor is switched to power and the other side is ground.
Evidently, my schematic-reading abilities are not what I thought they were. Same for a volt meter.
__________________
When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 06-18-2014, 07:33 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,963
Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
Evidently, my schematic-reading abilities are not what I thought they were. Same for a volt meter.
No, you're reading fine.

Both terminals are powered 12V+ at rest. The motor doesn't run because potential is the same at both leads. When you press a button, one side or the other is switched to ground. Ground is supplied through the brown wire on the driver's switch, not locally in the door.

You don't need to measure current: since your motor works when powered directly, not a short circuit.

If you have power at both leads at rest, and you're sure there is no power on both leads when you press a button, the only explanation that makes sense is a bad switch. What you may want to do is measure RESISTANCE between each of these terminals and ground when you press a button. That would determine is whether they are simply disconnected, or switched to ground.

The left and right switches are NOT interchangeable, that's not a test. You need to buy or borrow a good left side switch and try with that.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 06-18-2014, 09:18 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,081
Quote:
The left and right switches are NOT interchangeable, that's not a test. You need to buy or borrow a good left side switch and try with that.
OK, this was where I was heading...I was stuck on the fact that the drivers side switch - when installed on the passenger side - also did NOT operate the motor. But, if the switches are NOT interchangeable, then that could explain my problem (and I was wondering about the interchangeability due to the middle button connection on the driver's side switch that locks out the rear windows).

ryan
__________________
RG Newell

1984 300D
1972 250
1986 560SL
1991 300CE
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 06-18-2014, 09:36 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 8,971
Quote:
Originally Posted by rgnprof View Post
OK, this was where I was heading...
That's why I recommended that you jumper the connector terminals. But the terminal numbers that I provided might not be right for an '84. The basic idea can be garnished from the provided schematic, even if the terminal numbers and wire colors are different.
__________________
When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 06-20-2014, 01:43 AM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 55,932
When I took My Counsel Window Switches apart they were beyond any sort of chemical cleaner. I used a small Pocket Knife Blade to scrape the burned/oxidized part off of the Contact Points.

Also keep Brake Cleaner away from the Switch as it softens the Plastic.

In the picture the contact that is circled has not been scraped. The 2 lower ones have been scraped but notice the craters on them.

There is other Contacts on 2 the Rockers that are not shown in the Picture and there is other parts not shown in the Picture.
Attached Thumbnails
Confusing window motor issue-window-switch-innards.jpg  
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 06-21-2014, 03:06 PM
Zacharias's Avatar
Not so amused
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: West Quebec
Posts: 4,025
Similar issue, rear windows

On my '85 300d:

- rear windows worked until recently from either center console or door switches. Few months ago I noticed left rear worked when it felt like, from either switch.

- now neither side works from the door switches.

- right side works from console, left does not.

- left side: getting power to socket #7 with key on.
- right side: getting power to sockets 3 and 7, key on.

- have tried three switches on left door window motor, both spade connectors on the motor stay hot all the time regardless of switch position. I have one of the soldered-on-connectors motors.

UPDATE: turns out my multimeter has issues. Borrowed one, looks like I have no ground at the brown wire socket on the left door.


Does the ground go through the switch on the console? (I am Forrest Gump on electrics.)
__________________


Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

Last edited by Zacharias; 06-21-2014 at 04:39 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 06-21-2014, 04:57 PM
Graham's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,456
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zacharias View Post
On my '85 300d:


UPDATE: turns out my multimeter has issues. Borrowed one, looks like I have no ground at the brown wire socket on the left door.


Does the ground go through the switch on the console? (I am Forrest Gump on electrics.)
The chassis ground wire connects to pin 4 of both console switches. There is a ground conductor within the switch that connects to pin 4. Internally, there is a connection from this internal conductor to the safety switch and from there to pin 5. It is hard to describe in words, but You can see this in the diagram I posted for the 85. If the safety switch is open, then there is no ground for the rear motor and the rear window cannot be opened.
__________________
Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:21 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page