First off - thanks for all the suggestions, ideas and discussion. I finally have it fixed and I kind of feel like I wasted all of your time.

Problem - BLOWN FUSE! I'm not sure I understand it - how could I have voltage where I did and still have a bad fuse? I checked out the fuses and they all looked good and besides, the rear passenger door window was working (thinking right side would be one fuse and the left side would be another fuse). Fuse looked good, by the way...

I got the switch all cleaned up and installed it this afternoon and nothing! So, I went back to the fuse box and after more careful looking, I noticed that the fuses are for Front driver and Rear Passenger and Front Passenger and Rear Driver. Well, as it turns out, the rear driver door window wasn't working either and so I changed out fuses and Viola! Fixed.

I'm still not sure I understand it all, but they're working!

Ryan

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RG Newell

1984 300D
1972 250
1986 560SL
1991 300CE

I am glad you got it working.

BTW, I did mention in post 10 that the motors were fused that way.

The data you provided did not point toward a bad fuse. The fuse must have blown later (after you measured 12v at the motor). However, it could be just a corroded fuse making bad contact, especially if you have the aluminum type. (It's a good idea to buy a set of brass fuses and replace all of the aluminum ones (you can buy them in bulk on eBay)

The other thing it could be, is a short in the wiring to the door. I had a short in the driver side pillar leading to rear door. It blew my dash lighting circuits and fried the cluster printed circuit!

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

....this was just getting good! I have a similar issue and was hoping you had a bad ground so i could resolve my power window problem.

Neither of my rear windows will go down/up unless power is supplied directly to Blk and Gr wires at rear door switch sockets (pins #1 and #2 i believe), then window will go both directions.

Sound like a bad ground issue???
Should i remove front console child lockout plug or will that prevent grounding and not complete the circuit?


Thanks and sorry for the hijack,

Chris
85 300D

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1985 300D, 250k
1980 300SD, 180K

I'm having a similar problem, on my RF. LR works fine. I have continuity from the console to the door, and the motor works fine if I apply power directly. Thing is, I am unsure what I should see at the other pins at the console, I will look closely at the schematic in this thread later.

I too have yet to replace my fuses, just put them on order. I don't think that is my problem though since the LR works?

fahrvergnugen - What i found on the left-hand side was NO continuity from console rear pins to left rear door socket pins. I removed rear door panel and B-pillar trim, cut wire harness at B-pillar and removed harness via door. While pulling the cut section from harness only half came through as all 4 wires broke inside harness at the exit of the pillar location. Spliced new 14g wires in and LR window operational from both console and rear switch.

For voltages you should see 12v at both feed wires. My 85 feed wires were Pink/Black and Green/Black, along with a Brown ground wire and Blue which i believe feeds the illumination light at switch .

Right rear switch is not working and i do have continuity from all 4 wires with the exception of Brown (ground). Not sure if its due to failed child lockout switch (need to hold it down to provide ground to rear switches) or another broken wire at right hand B-pillar, or rear switch itself.

Chris

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1985 300D, 250k
1980 300SD, 180K

When the window quit working on my car it was because a pin had wore out, causing some gears to fall out. I made a new oversize spindle from a bolt and drilled out the gears to fit.

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85 Merc 300D - Unwinding 31 years of wear
86 VW TD
Mahindra Diesel
Iseki Diesel

In 2007 I didn't own a diesel.

Two more broken wires: one ground and one feed wire. Replaced all 4 wires and now windows work a treat.....but central locking is now suspect. I either damaged a weak vacuum line at the B-pillar, one of the rubber vacuum connector(s) is cracked or cracked door lock vac diaphragm.

Back to the troubleshooting.

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1985 300D, 250k
1980 300SD, 180K