IP bottom plate leak/IP removal - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

thebenstenator · #1 07-28-2014, 04:05 PM

So I've been chasing down an oil leak and have narrowed it down to the bottom plate of the IP. I've been doing some reading and sounds like this is a pretty common problem. I've tried getting the screws out with the IP still in the car to no avail.

So main question is, I've never done anything with the IP but I'm considering removing it.

I've done some searches, but haven't found any that relate directly to removing the OM602 pump. Are there any threads I can look into that will give some good instruction?

I don't want to mess with timing at all and I've read into that locking nut tool. If you use that tool, will the timing be locked and I can just reinstall the pump?

Thanks guys.

winmutt · #2 07-28-2014, 04:34 PM

Pretty straight forward, especially with the 602. Pull everything above it off, linkages, intake etc. On the 603 the CCU is mounted behind and needs to be removed as well. You will need to remove the vac pump and then the left handed screw to the pump. You will probably want the timing basket which costs some $300 for stamped piece of sheet metal. I suppose I can let you borrow one for a six pack + deposit. Some have done it without the basket I think by just zip tying the chain to the timing advancer. There will be three bolts on the front to the IP and one in the back. I think you will find that you can access the plate on the bottom with all the stuff removed and no need to remove the IP. Check startek w201 manual, should be pretty detailed and free.

thebenstenator · #3 08-01-2014, 07:00 PM

So, I'm well into tearing the IP out, still waiting for the locking nut to get here to take it all the way out. Anyway, just a snag I've run into.

This freaking electrical connection (see attached). I don't know how to get it off and it scares me because it's plastic and I don't want to break it.

But just what are you suppose to do to get it off? (As pictured) would the thumb knob turn towards the driver's side or the passenger's side? Or does the black connection come out of the brown part. . . or something else?

Phillytwotank · #4 08-01-2014, 08:02 PM

Once you turn it to unlock it, It will still take a good tug to pull it out.

79Mercy · #5 08-02-2014, 10:19 PM

you can pull it out without the locking tool you just need the locking tool to re-install. i bought the locking tool off ebay but had to use a grinder to the slot bigger to hold the tab on injection pump better.

thebenstenator · #6 08-03-2014, 09:25 PM

So I'm to understand that the brown "nut" part turns only a small bit (1/8 or 1/4 turn?) and then I yank the black electrical connection out of it?

thebenstenator · #7 08-23-2014, 07:52 PM

Ok guys, FINALLY got the IP out today. . . that locking nut tool was a PITA to get a hold of. Mainly in just waiting time. ANYWAY, when I took the back plate of the IP off it was a paper gasket, which I replaced with a cut-at-home gasket and black rtv on both sides just to seal it up good.

The bottom plate gasket is different though, it's a (now very brittle) rubber ring that goes around the indented part of the plate.

So question, will black RTV alone be enough to create a gasket or will I have to buy one?

leathermang · #8 08-23-2014, 08:04 PM

For years I have used paper gaskets very lightly coated with RTV..
I let it cure overnight...
clean all the surfaces it is supposed to touch that are metal...
and put the thinnest coat on both surfaces before putting them together..
spread with your finger....

THIN is the word...

you do not want a little wad of RTV to get squeezed into the an oil passage... yikes...

I have used this for thirty years and never had one leak... or squeeze any excess out either...