They are referring to countries with really bad roads... like third world roads.... they talk about it in the springs section of the FSM...

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Sounds like Tucson, AZ. I'll plan to install them for sure, then

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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino

http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg

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I went ahead and got those mounts... Will that affect my ride for any reason?

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1976 Mercedes 240D - 4 speed
1978 Mercedes 6.9
1976 Mercedes 6.9
1980 Mercedes 300D
1984 Mercedes 300TDT

I had this done a couple of years ago- the mechanic removed the front end from the car and did most of the re-build on a bench. My rationale was that the labor was the most expensive part, and it might as well be done right the first time.

In addition to the ball joints/control arms, steering damper, etc. mentioned above, I had just about all of the items below done. Sorry for listing items already on your list, and/or mentioned above, but I think it's better to be redundant than omit something important.

New Bilstein shocks.

New tie rods.

New brake calipers, and rotors+pads- all were needed in my case.
Rotors, even genuine MB, are relatively inexpensive.
An argument can be made for getting new, not rebuilt, calipers, if the existing calipers are due for replacement. Reliable sources say the rebuilds don't last very long.

Check and re-pack, or replace, wheel bearings. If new rotors are going on, I think the wheel bearings need to be re-packed anyhow.

Brake hoses- at least check them. See separate threads strongly advising checking these regularly, and replacing periodically. I've read here that Pex is a good brand, and they're not expensive.

If doing brake work, flush brake fluid.

As already mentioned, idler arm repair; mine had already been done recently.

And when it's all back together, a front end alignment, ASAP.

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Marshall Welch
Seattle, WA
1982 300D-T