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  #1  
Old 10-11-2014, 03:14 AM
mike-81-240d's Avatar
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Location: Bellevue, WA
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Driveshaft length 300TD-T 4 speed swap

Hey all

I'm manual swapping my 300TD with a 4 speed 240 kit. The transmission is the late model one piece aluminum unit from a 1983 240D with the levers on the bottom. I plan to have the driveshaft shortened and rebalanced before I even start the project to speed things up.

I've read most of the amazing threads explaining the swap, and have even done it before 6 years ago with my 240D/300D swap.

People claim that the newer style and older style 4 speed boxes are different length over all.

If I'm starting out with a 240 driveshaft, what should I shorten it by to fit properly behind the newer aluminum trans. I thought it was 4 inches, but again I want to know for sure beforehand.

Thanks in advance,
Mike

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1981 300TD 4 speed manual
Euro bumpers, zender valance and skirts, H&R springs, billy HD's, leveled sls, real AMG Pentas 16x8 et11, vdo boost/egt gauges intergrated into ash tray, eurolights, led 3rd brake light
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Old 10-11-2014, 03:45 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
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Well here's a lot of nice information for you

Gearbox comparison & drive shaft lenghts & colour codes - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

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  #3  
Old 10-11-2014, 04:33 AM
mike-81-240d's Avatar
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So from looking at that, and lutz's PDF it seems that the shaft needs to be 19.5 inches.
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1981 300TD 4 speed manual
Euro bumpers, zender valance and skirts, H&R springs, billy HD's, leveled sls, real AMG Pentas 16x8 et11, vdo boost/egt gauges intergrated into ash tray, eurolights, led 3rd brake light
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  #4  
Old 10-11-2014, 07:30 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Could be - I hope the information helps. I personally wouldn't risk it. I'd measure the distance on the vehicle once the engine and transmission is fitted. There is a chance pre-making a propshaft will be an expensive mistake...

...now a genuine 4 speed non turbo OM617 combination...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #5  
Old 10-11-2014, 09:11 AM
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Location: Wilmington, NC by the Atlantic ocean
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I measured the S-10 once everything was in place and then had the shaft made. I think that's the safest way to be sure it's going to fit.

On the other hand I got rid of the funky rubber biscuits and 2 piece shaft and went American old school (spline, u-joint, shaft, u-joint, differential). When I get on the track I'll tell you how it works but it should be OK.

Dan

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