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#1
11-22-2014, 09:53 AM
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Door Seal Glue
I changed out the seals on my front doors and am having a hard time finding an adhesive that works for the front portion. I tried a contact adhesive and it didn't take. Any suggestions?
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1985 Euro 300TD Turbo 
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#2
11-22-2014, 10:00 AM
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Yes... but you have to carefully describe what you did.... and what contact cement in what form you used.....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html
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#3
11-22-2014, 10:31 AM
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I cleaned the old glue off with acetone and used weldwood liquid contact cement. I applied it, let it dry and then stuck the surfaces together.
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1985 Euro 300TD Turbo
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#4
11-22-2014, 10:43 AM
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Ok.... acetone good....
for many years the standard glue for things like this was what was called ' yellow death'... you will need to clean the backside of your rubber if you are reusing it.... and not just with a good lacquer thinner... but scruff it up a little with rough sandpaper.. these are physical bonds... not chemical....so they need something to hold onto. If you do not want to use that.... 3m 8090 spray contact cement is really strong... it is the one recommended for hood pads... over the 8088 or 8080 .. can't remember the standard number.. with the yellow death... follow directions on the tube... and hold in place with blue painters tape ....overnight... held every few inches should be fine... better to leave doors open if they will contact the rubber in question... unhook battery so you can leave the doors ajar.... https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=yellow+death+trim+adhesive http://www.mbca.org/forum/2012-05-11/best-adhesive-weatherstripping
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html
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#5
11-22-2014, 12:17 PM
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Go to your local body shop supply/auto paint store and ask for 3M Weather Strip Adhesive - if I wasn't so lazy I'd go out to the shop and get the number off my tube. Bet you can't guess what it's made for. Yep, adhering weather strip.
Prepare the surface as described by leathermang - he's got the system. Then, follow the label instructions. Dan
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#6
11-22-2014, 12:32 PM
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__________________
1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html
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#7
11-22-2014, 04:03 PM
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In the interest of full disclosure, our oldest son works for 3M at the headquarters in St. Paul, MN. Unfortunately, he's not in adhesives nor in the abrasives (sandpaper) group as he does marketing for Personal Protective Equipment (PPE). So far my contact at 3M hasn't saved me scoot but they DO support my Grandsgirls in fine (though not lavish) style.
Anyhow, they make great stuff and I've sanded a ton of their abrasives into the trash bag. Dan
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#8
11-22-2014, 04:21 PM
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When I was going to swap windshields between a parts Subaru and my best one ... I was advised to contact the area rep for 3M here in central Texas.....Some modern cars incorporate the windshield into the strength of the roof with regards to roll overs...so just any ' glue ' is not acceptable...
The local rep provided me with a huge stack of instructional material... as well as actual glass cleaner, primer and the proper urethane to install that windshield correctly. He was super helpful and friendly. 3M is pretty much the king of what they do in the industry... you should be proud of your connection to them. I am the one that mentioned yellow death first... and I have no connection with them except admiration for their products....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html
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#9
11-22-2014, 06:08 PM
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Back in my dealership days we often used it to tack gaskets in place during assembly and it worked perfectly even though that's an "off label" use. Stuff like cork valve cover gaskets and the like can squirm out of place pretty easily and we'd stick 'em and let the glue set as/per the label and it solved that issue. A trick we picked up was to use the hold-down bolts to align the bolt holes as the glue set and then everything fit just like it was made for the application (which of course it was but otherwise it's hard to have the holes aligned).
Only glue 1 side or it'll be a stinker to ever remove that gasket again! We always did the side that would come off in your hand so we could wire brush the remains off if we ever had to pull the part again. So the valve cover gasket was glued to the valve cover, the thermostat gasket was glued to the water outlet neck, etc. So you have a use for any that's left after you install your weatherstrip. Dan
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