Project Smokey Wagon 2014! - Mostly just noob questions inside. W123 1985 300TD - Page 12 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

vwnate1 · #**166** 04-05-2016, 06:54 PM

I hear you loud and clear Greg ;

I'm taking the butchered manifolds off my European Spec. 300TD , the EGR is long gone but the crusty welds bother me to look at .

I occasionally think about doing this to my 300CD too but the EGR does nothing if you disable it , or tweak the adjuster so it can't open anyway...

I was already a Mechanic when EGR valves came out , I hate them even when you tinker them to only come into play above 2,500 RPM and with the engine fully warmed up they're still bad IMO .

WarTowels · #**167** 04-07-2016, 05:51 PM

Still tearing things down, cleaning things up:

^Couldn't see paint in most places before.

In the last picture, that canister in the passenger fender is some sort of A/C system component right? Perhaps a water separator? I can safely disconnect that and cap the ends? *I've already removed the A/C line that goes across the engine and plan to remove the rest of the now useless hoses, going to leave some A/C parts in place in case some insane person in the future gets the gumption to fix it... but unlikely.

WarTowels · #**168** 04-09-2016, 01:39 AM

Left: 85' California Garrett coldside w/ ARV - 3.3lb
Right: ?? Federal Garrett coldside - 1.6lb

Thanks ROLLGUY!

Progress as of turbo tear down tonight:

ngarover · #**169** 04-09-2016, 02:38 AM

Nice Turbo break down shot! That's one job I have not done yet myself. Your making really nice process with this wagon, would like to see more pictures of course, can never have too many.

I find these cars addicting. They are fun to work on and drive. Hopefully you get the point where your doing the later most! I drive mine about 20K a year and after 5 years still find it to be one of the most enjoyable cars I have ever owned even with it's quirks. The way your going this car is going to see another 30 years on the roads. As to your sagging rear, before you spend a lot of time etc, go ahead and get those rear subframe bushing replaced, they make a lot of difference. 123-350-03-75
1 SUBFRAME MOUNT KIT (Wagon subframe kit, Mercedes) The price is a little shocking, but you will be happy you did it. Mine drove like a different car after. Getting them in is a little tricky so search here for the instructions and read them a few times.

The difference you made with your interior carpet...wow. it's inspired me to do the same. what was the recoloring product you used?

WarTowels · #**170** 04-10-2016, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ngarover

The difference you made with your interior carpet...wow. it's inspired me to do the same. what was the recoloring product you used?

Many coats of VHT vinyl and fabric dye, I believe in Dessert Sand: VHT SP961, VHT Vinyl Dye | VHT

Though I may be mistaken about the color. It's close-ish. (I recall there were two shades that were close and one was closer. YMMV)

Definitely lots of coats required if you want it to be more permanent. Do lots of light coats and in between each coat give it a complete brushing with a medium strength fingernail brush (or similar). This will help keep the fibers from becoming overly stiff and rigid. It will be stiffer than stock after all the painting, but it's not too stiff and worth it for the looks.

More turbo pics coming... thanks for reading =)

WarTowels · #**171** 04-10-2016, 03:35 PM

Almost ready to reassemble...

WarTowels · #**172** 04-11-2016, 01:02 PM

Spent all day yesterday continuing prep on the car. Wanted everything cleaned up so once I finished the turbo rebuild nothing would be in the way to finish the car.

I cleaned up the oil pan a bunch and prepped the block for a new turbo drain pipe grommet and new oil pan gasket. Cleaned up and turbo drain pipe and cold side of the turbo.

I had a little fun with the cold side of the turbo...

WarTowels · #**173** 04-11-2016, 09:54 PM

Well unfortunately, what seemed very simple I buggered up. While attempting to put the first clip back into the turbo, I managed to scratch the bearing bore wall. Really disappointed, I should have taken more care. So I'm currently on the hunt for a center section... if anyone has one.

EDIT: Ended up just buying a new center section, hopefully not to repeat my same mistakes from today!

WarTowels · #**174** 04-18-2016, 03:04 PM

New center housing arrived and even though I matched images of the product being sold to my existing housing and they were identical, what showed up is not however.

Now it is very similar... Couple notes:
1. The additional holes are threaded and do not penetrate the body. These holes align up to the replacement rebuild kit supplied by MS. So it would appear the rebuilt kit is compatible with this.
2. The center section has that indent by the center bore machined into it. I'm not sure if this actually matter at all, I'm not really familiar enough to know if this would have any affect. The thrust bear for all purposes seems to fit the same on both.

Thoughts?

EDIT: I'm told by the seller that this is the "upgraded" center housing over stock and has better provisions for the 360 degree bearing replacement. It also has the ability to bolt down the thrust bearing instead of using the spring clip. Thoughts on bolting the thrust bearing down anyone?

EDIT 2:
I chose to bolt down the thrust bearing using the supplied bolts and lock tited them.

vwnate1 · #**175** 04-18-2016, 09:41 PM

I'm not clear as to why you're changing the cold side housing to delete the ARV ? .

WarTowels · #**176** 04-18-2016, 10:06 PM

If, "The ARV lets pressure from the intake manifold escape back to the inlet (decreasing IM pressure), allowing the EGR to pass more exhaust gas into the intake manifold." then the ARV is an emissions device (found only on California models) that works in conjunction to EGR.

If I have no EGR, allow me to ask for what reason should I keep the ARV? [serious question]

As I understand the system I see no reason to keep it when I have no EGR system. I know that this configuration works because it's how the Federal 49 state version is set up. My EGR was busted and it was cheaper to remove than replace in this instance. Other benefits of removing the ARV- it creates more room in the engine bay, reduces complexity, improves aesthetics and *technically* removes weight.

The above were the factors considered when deciding to ditch it. I would need a compelling reason to put the ARV system back in otherwise.

vwnate1 · #**177** 04-18-2016, 11:52 PM

I was hoping you'd tell me

.

I have it on my '84 300CD , rebuilt the turbo last Summer and the car runs much more powerfully now .

You may need to replace the air filter canister as it's *slightly* different with the ARV , mine is damaged and I wanted to replace it but only have a 49 state air cleaner , it won't fit on the Ca. ARV equipped engine .

WarTowels · #**178** 04-19-2016, 01:39 AM

Well I'm certainly not the expert on diesel Mercs, but I think it'll be fine to remove. I'll have made too many changes to be able to pin point any direct effects from it's removal. Valve adjustment, turbo rebuild, EGR removal, ARV removal and possibly a little short ram intake.

I believe the stock CA air filter should work, but I'm intending on trying out a 3" intake short ram style. I have a nice large spare K&N laying around from my Honduh. Depending on how that works/sounds I'll possibly switch back to the factory airbox. Both the K&N and factory filters have only couple hundred miles on them each.

WarTowels · #**179** 04-19-2016, 01:50 AM

Turbo drain pipe cleaned up:

Installed the lower half of the drain pipe into the pan today, as well as the replacement oil pan itself and gasket. No sealant was used. Replaced four of the pan bolts that were getting rounded and tightened them all down to 10 Ft Lbs. Consensus on the board was a little less Ft Lb from factory but my threads are not 100% clean. So a slight torque increase to compensate.

No sealant was used on the turbo drain pipe o-ring or grommet either, I saw several members suggest thin layers of silicone here or there but when I took these all apart I saw no evidence of sealant from factory on any parts.

WarTowels · #**180** 04-19-2016, 01:57 AM

I have removed several A/C lines, brackets and the compressor which was dead from the vehicle as well. This is a winter/secondary vehicle for me and I don't envision going through the trouble of retrofitting A/C at this time. Regardless, most of the stuff removed will have to be pulled to do so anyway.

Remaining lines going into the car and the condesner up front have been capped off.

I also removed the cruise control box and arm from the linkage as it's non functional as well - clicking dead. Out of curiosity, I weighed everything removed and came in at 36lb of parts that weren't doing anything. Really helps open up the engine bay as well. I have access to things that were completely hidden before.