When the glowplugs are taken out a good careful reaming of that hole would be in order...
instructions in the archives....and the FSM...

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Okay, okay. I should have taken the battery to the Auto store before asking everyone for advice, but, turns out I needed the advice just to override my sense that the battery was good, and to take the damn thing to the store. It didn't fire right up, but after a number of tries with a new battery and my truck on the jump, my old blue 240d fired up.

While I have you on the phone...

Should I try MMO to increase compression?

Thanks so much, all. I will in fact be reaming out the GP holes and testing 2 and 3, on account of the ohm problem. Thanks especially Kurt gastropodus for offering to come over and help, though with two babies, visiting in-laws, and everything else, I just couldn't reliably schedule it.

If you have the time and don't need to drive it. One thing I encountered while doing it was not being able to pour much in if the valves were closed.

I went through the injectors with glow plugs in. Thing to consider is having to put in new heat shields after.

Rotate every 24 hrs. Don't rotate after putting oil in, it will blow it pretty damn far and in your eye.

I'm gonna add water injection to my 220d NA. I got a reservoir from a 98 Dodge Durango as it fits my passenger side inner fender back near the firewall. The pump as well. Putting a greenhouse 3 gph mister in the intake (high quality brass one) and a push button to hit it while WOT going uphill.

I'm not saying it will work. Haven't done it yet. The WVO are all about it, even without running WVO.

Glad that worked out. The MMO soak has some documented success, and is cheap to try.

Instead of replacing the copper heat shields, you can anneal them with a torch and re-use them.

A leakdown tester will tell you where the leak is (intake valves, exhaust valves, or rings).

But a reliable start is all you're really after. After adjusting the valves and MMO soak, fixing low compression is expensive.

__________________
CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

Can you point us to that ?
It is cheap to try....and I do not think it will do any harm... but I can not figure out any basis in physics which would support it.

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Search the forum. IIRC, some people documented compression before and after.

__________________
CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

I agree. Most people say "it ran better." Qualitative not quantitative. It made me feel better, but I got it on some paint and it didn't do anything.

I still had to drag my car in circles to get the rings to pop after two weeks of daily MMO and rotating. I also used brake fluid and ATF.

Next time I would use gasoline.

I still have a half gallon of MMO and am gonna put it in my oil and idle before draining it. An old timer I know said he always used diesel fuel for this purpose. But only at idle.

This situation is not one where the engine has been sitting for a long time.. in that case I can see trying to make sure the rings are not rusted to the bore...
but for normal situations where one is hoping that the rings will magically expand to provide better sealing of the bore I am at the very least skeptical....
As Lucas alluded to.... a lot of things can make something seem better... I have always felt my cars ran better after a good waxing... of the paint... not the engine... but that does not make it so.....

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html