Found the adjustment nut. Had to turn it a half dozen times before the light moved.

The dealer used Castrol 0-40 synthetic but I need to top it up. I always used Delo which is specific for diesels in my pickups. I haven't checked the Castrol but seems oil for diesels have a different rating from oils for gas engines. What's the recommended oil for this car?

Mileage: on a 500 mile trip last week down to the wild flower bloom in S Ca I got a little over 35/mpg. 3/4quarters of it open hyw at 80mph. I was hoping for closer to 40 which is what the computer registers. Maybe if I slowed down the mpgs would go up? Or is this what I should expect?

Make sure you use diesel rated oil.

__________________
Jim

The OM648 oil spec ranges from 228.3 to 229.52 (SAE 0W-30, 5W-30, 0W-40 or 5W-40 recommended). You should be able to easily source MB/diesel (229.5) rated Mobil, Pennzoil or Castrol 0-40 synthetic oil. I've yet to need to top off mine between yearly (7kmi) services.

I've found the trip computer is around 6% optimistic on my car. Yes, you'll need to slow down if you want better mileage. Still, 35mpg (allowing a 700 mile cruising range) is not bad! The revised EPA rating is 23/33.

About 10% optimistic on mine. Can be recalibrated if desired. Wow, that new EPA rating is pretty conservative! I'm not at all careful and I get close to 32 combined....37 on highway with ease.

__________________
14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 159k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 179k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 145k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete

19 Honda CR-V EX 77k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

The glow plug indicator light didn't go out in a second or two on the first start in the am. The first time I cycled the key a few times then it went out and started and ran fine although the "check engine light" came on and stays on. the next morning the key cycling didn't work but If I start her up anyway it does go out in a few seconds. My only car and needed to use it.
My MBi980 scanner says "check wires between the control module and # 6 plug" and I'll test the plug out tomorrow first.

After reading about all the broken glow plug problems I'm pretty nervous about doing it myself. But I've worked on a lot of cars over the year( Porches and Jags) so feel I ought to at least give it a try.

I could use a few suggestions. I plan on wd40 around the plugs over night, then warm up the engine first. I have a torque wrench. So I wont over torque but it seems they break anyway sometimes.

The other thing I'd like to do first is remove the wires from the control module and add some diaelectric paste see if its a contact problem. But can't seem to get the wires out. what's the trick?
ANd on the glow plugs do the connectors just pull straight off like a regular spark plug? They sure don't seem to want to come off.

And last are there any good references or utube videos.

Hi All,

Just purchased an 05 CDI from my brother, 200k fairly well maintenanced for $5k....so I thought it was a deal. I've had my 98 E300TD for quite a bit now, so I'm fairly familiar with the 722.6 and I just just want to make sure I've got my bases covered for my once over next week:

Things to check specific to the CDI:
Black Death
Sensomatic Brake System
Doesn't have the fancy key system

Normal Mercedes Stuff:
Ball Joints
Wheel Bearings
Change All fluids/filters

Missing anything? Thanks,and I really enjoyed all 18 pages of this thread as a primer for w211 ownership!

Red Lights out and it won't close the lid. Pulled it out. The brown/yellow wire is hot, the grey/yellow becomes hot if I depress the switch, but the blue/white still doesn't get power. I think there is a break in the hot wire at the plug to the switch, if I move it around sometimes the brown yellow wire looses power. But not being able to power the blue white wire when I depress the switch makes me think I also have a bad switch.
I think the blue/white activates the trunk closer. And the brown/yellow electrifies the switch generally plus the light? But what does the Grey/yellow do?
All the other trunk lid lights work, license plate lights etc
Maybe someone could point me to a color coded layout of the trunk please.
2005e320, cdi

https://www.google.com/search?q=SBC+reset+tool&oq=SBC+reset+tool&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.5897j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

__________________
'84 300SD sold
124.128

Best thing to do is go on EBay and get one of the boot leg WIS/ASRA DVD sets and install it on an old junker laptop (I'm using an old HP from 2010 that was my son's from middle school, slow but it works). Unfortunately the documentation for the 211 is not available online like the older models.

In the absence of data I would start looking at the wire pack where it flexes coming into the trunk lid. I suspect your broken wire will be there.

__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

The trunk closer wires are on the left side of the trunk running along the left hinge. You can see them in a protective covering. You'll need to remove some of the cladding and get into the wires themselves and see which wires are parted. The trunk closing causes chafing and this chafing eventually causes one or more wire to fail. I've had the same issue and it's an simple fix taking a couple hours at most.

The goofy part to me is that there is no remote trunk closing; they should have put one inside the car or on the key fob.

I did find 3 broken wires, spliced them and alls well.
I did use the remote switch on the door while figuring out the fix
Thanks all for the tips.

I sold my Desert Silver CDI to my niece (trans went out on her 300CD, so she needed a car). I was originally looking for a blue one, but got a good deal on the Desert Silver one, so I bought it. I found a nice Platinum Blue one in Albuquerque. I got a one way plane ticket and the seller picked me up at the airport. We made a deal, and I drove it back to CA. I stopped at my favorite restaurant for dinner on the way home. This one has some minor issues, but nothing I can't handle. Overall, it is quite nice.....Rich

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________

All Diesel Fleet
1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL
2005 E320 CDI (daily)

LOTS of parts for sale!


EGR block kit
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html

1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This!
Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst.

Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11):
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html

nice!

After looking at a few CDIs in the Phoenix area, this one just showed up right here in Albuquerque... and it was in excellent shape.

So I took the plunge! I has about 190,000 miles at this point and I love it!
The first thing I did was solder up an EGR spoof circuit that basically keeps the EGR valve shut off while telling the ECU "no problem here, everything is working great!"
I went ahead and bought a Chinese Star/DAS system. I was able to check the number of SBC brake applications, and they were right up around 380,000 or so. I reset the SBC counters and will be bleeding the system before taking off on a trip to Vancouver,BC in a few weeks.
If you don't have the active curve HID factory headlights, then the oem halogens are simply inadequate. I am upgrading the H7 headlight bulbs to HID, but Mbz used a wierd metal retainer clip to hold the bulbs in place that is a bear to work on.
The last of the great Mercedes inline 6 turbodiesels, what a car!