Replacing flex discs - What do I need? - Page 7 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

TnBob · #91 05-01-2015, 09:59 PM

It will go on... and then you will be on to the next part.

renaissanceman · #92 05-02-2015, 01:47 AM

We all had similar experiences to yours in the past, that's how you learn. I'm pretty new to the Mercedes game, but I've done engine swaps in other cars. The first one was so daunting, and took like 30 hours of work. The last one I did took 6 hours. It just really depends on how many times you've done it, and how you learn to not do things that got you into a corner last time.

You'll get it! The next time it will be a 3 hour job!

Ceristimo · #93 05-02-2015, 02:59 PM

YES! DONE! Thanks so much for all of the advice, guys!

With help of my buddy the drive shaft is back in and all nicely bolted up. It helps to have an extra pair of hands to help guide things in. If you're by yourself I think the only feasible way is to get the car on a lift.

After a long time of prying and prodding - and using every German curse word we could think of - the damn thing popped in place.

I had loosened up the transmission mount and that certainly helped to create some extra wiggle room.

I took the car out for a little spin around the block last night (still no insurance on it, I think I'm gonna do that soon because I want to drive it!) and everything seems OK. I felt no vibration, but I haven't had it above 40 mph yet.

And with this I think we can successfully close the chapter on this flex disc adventure, and go on to the next thing that needs fixing. Which is....ehr....everything!?

TnBob · #94 05-03-2015, 12:01 AM

Nope..not everything.. flex disks are done.

Ceristimo · #95 05-03-2015, 01:13 AM

That's true. As are the bushings (well, one of them) and the carrier bearing and transmission mount.
I also already did the oil cooler lines and engine mounts, and I threw in an oil change.

The HIGH PRIORITY to-do list right now is:

1) Brake pads (the next week or two). I pulled all wheels today to pull the studs out of the tires (that is time consuming!!), and I checked the brake pads while I was at it. I was a little shocked to be honest. I'm almost metal on metal at this point... I'll throw in a brake fluid change while I'm at it. The brake lines I've already inspected, and they look good, and the rubber parts are not cracked or dry rotted.
2) All other fluids and necessary filters. My anti-freeze still looks good, but I'm still gonna flush the engine. I'll throw in a new thermostat and upper radiator hose while I'm at it. 'm going to flush the power steering (it's black) and change the filter, and I'm going to drain the transmission and replace the filter and pan gasket. Not sure if I should flush the transmission, but I read somewhere that flushing an old transmission can lead to problems, so I think I'll just do a drain & fill. As far as I know this tranny hasn't been rebuild, and has 280k miles on it. Still shifts strong without flaring though.
3) Replace rear axle, and possibly reboot right axle. I'll drain and refill the diff. with fresh fluid while I'm at it.

That currently is just the HIGH priority list (like, I want to get all this done in the next two months or so, before I seriously start driving it).

Then it still has a ton of issues, and it probably needs new rubber bushing everywhere, and sub frame mounts, and there's rust on the bottom of the door, and the door locks don't work, and the door check strap on the drivers side makes a KLOINK noise every time I open the door, and the roof doesn't open properly, and the passenger side window sometimes needs a little help, and the speakers are terrible, and the radio reception is awful, and the sound quality is seriously bad from the rear speakers as well, and the timing chain probably needs checking/replacing, and the rear doors don't have functional locks at all since the door lock buttons are simply gone, and I should probably have a spare key made since I only have one, and it does leak a lot of oil which should probably be checked also, and there's a crack in the rear light cluster, and also a hole in the front driver's side marker, and the power antenna is dead and the climate control has a mind of it's own and really doesn't work very well, and the passenger seat is a little stuck in it's track, and the rear passenger ash tray is stuck open and looks ugly, which reminds me that the front ash tray is all loose and funky as well, and the top of the dashboard doesn't line up properly and is also loose, and there's a piece of wood trim in the interior falling of, speaking of which there's a piece of trim on the front passenger fender that should probably be put back in place since it's a little loose, and also I think there's some rust at the rear window seal, and there might actually be some at the bottom as well but I'm not sure yet though the passenger floor pan does certainly feel a bit "soft", and why do I only get air out of the outer vents and none of the others, and why is there so much play in the steering wheel and how do you fix tears in the leather seats, and...

TnBob · #96 05-03-2015, 05:26 PM

Pads are quite easy. Even for a 1st time Id allocate bout an hour each for front and rear.
Glad you are already planning on a brake fluid change too.

Ceristimo · #97 05-04-2015, 01:09 AM

(Long story alert, I have a problem writing short posts.... I need to go to my LPA (Long Posters Anonymous) meetings again...)

Well....See, the guy I bought it from seemed like a nice enough guy. My age, same line of work, I felt we had something in common. He said he loved these old German cars, and claimed to have taken good care of it. "Meticulously maintained" were his exact words.
Of course, no receipts for anything. I should've questioned that, but since this car is almost identical to the one my dad had in the '80's (white exterior, blue interior and bundt wheels) I was madly in love at first sight...

Stupid.

But, on the other hand, there ain't may W123's to choose from here in Alaska, and I have yet to see another white one (there's a shabby looking red one that I see driving around town occasionally), so it was heart over mind and I bought it.

And now I realize he didn't take good care of it. Or any care, really. So what has happened is that he bought it when it was in better shape, daily drove it for two years without fixing A SINGLE THING, and now I bought it and have to fix all of his deterred maintenance.
Basically, he got to drive it trouble free, and I bought his headache.

I'm not resentful. I still love this car and smile every time I walk out through the garage and see it.
But then I get into my daily driver to get to work (I do love the little stick speed Mazda as well, that thing has some character and it steers like a go-kart), and I think: "Darnit, wish I could take the Benz".

Oh well, I'm sure I'll slowly get there. I've stopped caring about the non-functioning door locks and the saggy seats and all the other small issues it has. That'll get fixed. Or not. I need to get all the major things fixed up first.

And also, I did really notice the rear passenger floor pan is...soft....and it worries me. I thought I had a rust free car, but it seems these cars just hide rust very well. Underneath the carpet the floor looks white (thought there's a tiny tiny hair crack that lets in day light), and underneath the car it looks black, but when I push hard on it the floor moves. I never noticed this when I bought the car. I visually inspected the floors, but like I said: at first glance it looks totally rust free!

I thought that maybe these cars just had a lot of flex in the floor, but the driver's rear and front and passenger front floor boards don't have any flex.

So, I dunno...Almost makes me think that all that holds the floor in at this point is the black under coating.
At this point I strongly suggest to my rear passenger to not stomp their feet too hard and tread lightly. They might end up getting cold feet otherwise, what with the wind coming through the floor...

Means I gotta call some kind of shop that does metal body work to see what can be done when it comes to welding. Not sure if I can fit that in the budget this year though. That might have to wait 'till next summer.

Which doesn't mean I'll drive it for a full year with a rusty floor. Since you can't drive this car here after September anyway (with the freezing cold and ice and snow), it'll be parked between October and April/May, so I'll only drive it another 5 months like this. Should be fine. I'm sure it has had the floor like that for years.

TnBob · #98 05-04-2015, 02:48 AM

There are several places that make different sections for MB's including floor pans.

It also means you need to check under your battery for the infamous rotted out area that makes your passenger side rear a mini swimming pool.

Ceristimo · #99 05-04-2015, 08:29 PM

@TnBob
Yeah....That definitely looks rusted out. I knew that when I bought it though, I didn't know that would create the swimming pool in the rear though. I thought it was pretty harmless, as it seems most if not all W123's have rust in that area by now...

Since that is not a structural part, I'm assuming I can kinda fiberglass-fix that? The floor pan and parts of the passenger side rocker panel will require the help of someone who knows what he is doing though.
That will be WAY out of my league....

I'm a little jealous of my dad, who got to drive one of these in pristine condition, since it was a young car back then. I wanted to experience what he experienced, but I'm sure his experience didn't include steering wheel play, saggy seats, and floor pan rust!

It's just so weird to me still that these cars are seriously old now. Man, only seems like yesterday I was sitting in the back seat of one when I was only 4 feet tall!

TnBob · #**100** 05-04-2015, 10:42 PM

Yes, the firewall can and usually is fixed with fiberglas.

Any semi competent welder can have your new pan in reeeally quick.