Have you replaced all of your W210 lug bolts? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

shertex · #1 03-30-2015, 06:56 PM

I am learning the hard way about the...ahem...disadvantages of the original lug bolt design on the W210....Grrrr.... See thread mistakenly called "wheel stud issue."

How many of you have replaced all twenty? I may do that just so I don't ever have to deal with this again.

Skid Row Joe · #2 03-30-2015, 07:37 PM

Never had a problem with mine. Maybe because I'm a big believer in applying anti - seize to their threads whenever they're out?

shertex · #3 03-30-2015, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe

Never had a problem with mine. Maybe because I'm a big believer in applying anti - seize to their threads whenever they're out?

My understanding is that, with lug bolts, clean and dry is the way to go...no anti-seize.

GregMN · #4 03-30-2015, 07:49 PM

I have replaced them. I had one that a garage installed after mounting and balancing tires that had to be drilled out. The garage insisted that they used a torx (sp?) stick and could not have over torqued it. They spend 2 or 3 hours getting it out.

Never, ever, use anti-seize on a lug nut or bolt.
The torque specifications are for a "dry" thread. If it is lubricated with anything, the correct torque cannot be achieved. This can result in an under or over tight fastener.

dieselbenz1 · #5 03-30-2015, 08:11 PM

I never had any good luck having tires changed at tires shops both times I took it in. Technician dropped the lug bolt down a grate and stuck on an imperial bolt from the bin thinking I wouldn't notice but I did so that was a major event. Next time different shop technician drove in a car needing a brake job and used my car to stop it duh duh! So no car for a week while it was at the auto body.

I have since always did my Season change overs. For new tires I drop off the loose tires and pick them up a few days later.

Ditto clean dry lug bolts and use a torque wrench.

Skid Row Joe · #6 03-30-2015, 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shertex

My understanding is that, with lug bolts, clean and dry is the way to go...no anti-seize.

Always adjust the torque wrench - that's a given. 25+ years with no problems using anti-seize on any of our equipment. I'm not in the rust-belt as I see all the posters are. That's probably the reason you're getting seized/rusted then.

If; "clean and dry is the way to go," then why would/did they seize/rust?

nelbur · #7 03-30-2015, 08:32 PM

Obviously, over-torqueing by tire shops is a major cause of the stuck lugs problem, but they do get locked by rust due to the threads rusting in the steel hubs. The only way I know of to stop the rusting of the threads in the hub, is to coat them with something to protect them. I have always used anti-seize. In my opinion the torque is mainly developed where the bell shaped portion meets the rim, and that will not change when anti-seize is used only on the threads. I suppose there are other protectants that could be used to coat the hub threads, like low strength thread lock, or some type of thread sealant, but anti-seize has always worked fine for me. I still have all my original lug bolts on my '97 with 237k miles.

Skid Row Joe · #8 03-30-2015, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieselbenz1

I never had any good luck having tires changed at tires shops both times I took it in. Technician dropped the lug bolt down a grate and stuck on an imperial bolt from the bin thinking I wouldn't notice but I did so that was a major event. Next time different shop technician drove in a car needing a brake job and used my car to stop it duh duh! So no car for a week while it was at the auto body.

I have since always did my Season change overs. For new tires I drop off the loose tires and pick them up a few days later.

Ditto clean dry lug bolts and use a torque wrench.

I monitor the tire techs best I can when taking my units in. I coat the threads when they're off the unit, before they re-mount the wheel/nuts or bolts. Sometimes they get one past you. Gotta be careful in their workplace too.

Skid Row Joe · #9 03-30-2015, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nelbur

Obviously, over-torqueing by tire shops is a major cause of the stuck lugs problem, but they do get locked by rust due to the threads rusting in the steel hubs. The only way I know of to stop the rusting of the threads in the hub, is to coat them with something to protect them. I have always used anti-seize. In my opinion the torque is mainly developed where the bell shaped portion meets the rim, and that will not change when anti-seize is used only on the threads. I suppose there are other protectants that could be used to coat the hub threads, like low strength thread lock, or some type of thread sealant, but anti-seize has always worked fine for me. I still have all my original lug bolts on my '97 with 237k miles.

I've been using it (anti-seize dressing) since the early '80s. Friends with heavy-equipment; over-the-road 18/wheelers & trailers/DetroitDiesels/Caterpillars were using it, as well as on all their Mercedes-Benz diesel cars. Never a problem with lugs or bolts/nuts.

shertex · #10 03-31-2015, 07:52 AM

Ordering 40 today....one issue I'll never have to deal with again.

shertex · #11 03-31-2015, 08:15 AM

Ordering 40 today....one issue I'll never have to deal with again.

pimpernell · #12 03-31-2015, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shertex

I am learning the hard way about the...ahem...disadvantages of the original lug bolt design on the W210....Grrrr.... See thread mistakenly called "wheel stud issue."

How many of you have replaced all twenty? I may do that just so I don't ever have to deal with this again.

Only "problem" I ever had with the lugs came about when I went to rotate my tires. I had purchased my car used, and it had the original spare in the trunk. I was in the process of rotating the tires which had mag rims. I had taken off one of the tires, and replaced it with the spare that had a steel rim. When I went to tighten the lugs, I found that the mag lugs were too long, and could not be seated, and locked up the wheel by hitting the back plate. Luckily, I was doing this in front of my house. Had I been on the road and had a flat, the spare would have been useless. Had to get shorter lugs for the spare, and found out later on that the car had a special set of lugs when it was purchased, but mine were missing.

VW1300 · #13 03-31-2015, 08:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregMN

Never, ever, use anti-seize on a lug nut or bolt.
The torque specifications are for a "dry" thread. If it is lubricated with anything, the correct torque cannot be achieved. This can result in an under or over tight fastener.

What is the torque spec on lug bolts?

Mölyapina · #14 03-31-2015, 10:01 AM

I think it's generally somewhere around 80 ft-lbs. Honestly, I just do it by hand. I'm not a very big guy, so it would be pretty hard for me to over-tighten them.

Zulfiqar · #15 03-31-2015, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pimpernell

Only "problem" I ever had with the lugs came about when I went to rotate my tires. I had purchased my car used, and it had the original spare in the trunk. I was in the process of rotating the tires which had mag rims. I had taken off one of the tires, and replaced it with the spare that had a steel rim. When I went to tighten the lugs, I found that the mag lugs were too long, and could not be seated, and locked up the wheel by hitting the back plate. Luckily, I was doing this in front of my house. Had I been on the road and had a flat, the spare would have been useless. Had to get shorter lugs for the spare, and found out later on that the car had a special set of lugs when it was purchased, but mine were missing.

your car came with a stamped steel wheel for spare? Mine has a 5 spoke black alloy wheel