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  #1  
Old 04-21-2015, 12:36 PM
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Clutch Replacement Advice?

Hi guys,

I have a 1983 240D with a 4-speed manual transmission.

It's acting like it is time for a new clutch (e.g. making noise on engagement, smells like burning clutch after a hard run... well as hard as a 240D can run. )

I just called what is supposedly the best clutch specialists in town, Clutch Master.

They quoted me $700 for parts and labor, which includes:
* Release bearing
* Pilot bearing
* Pressure plate
* Clutch disc
Includes resurfacing the flywheel.

I asked him about
input shaft collar
clutch fork
slave cylinder

replacement. He said "Those really aren't wear items", I don't think it's really needed.

I asked him what brand of parts they are, and he said "Luk", that's the factory OEM.

So, what do you guys think? Is Luk the OEM supplier?

Thanks so much,

Packman

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  #2  
Old 04-21-2015, 12:38 PM
is thinning the herd
 
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LuK is a Germany company and I have used their parts with no issues in the past.

However I thought Fichtel-Sachs was the OEM clutch supplier, though its possible Mercedes sourced clutches from both.
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  #3  
Old 04-21-2015, 12:44 PM
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Thanks for the quick response DieselPaul.

I looked up the Luk clutch kit on Amazon. "LuK 11-011 Clutch Set"

I read a couple of the review comments:

"Pressure plate has Sachs TYPM215 on it."

"It visibly stated this clutch kit was made by sachs on pretty much all the parts that came in the box."

I would appear that they are made by Sachs?

Thanks,

Packman.
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  #4  
Old 04-21-2015, 12:59 PM
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Id sure be doing the slave cylinder as long as you have everything pulled.
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  #5  
Old 04-21-2015, 03:17 PM
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ABSOLUTELY do the slave. They're a stinker to replace - well, really - a stinker to bleed after replacement. Might as well do it all.

I think that price is WAY high. The trans is a piece of cake to remove and reinstall. It's VERY light as transmissions go and there's plenty of room as the tunnel is big enough for a much larger automatic trans.

If you have any mechanical skills at all, or have a friend who does, I'd do it myself. I pulled the trans from mine in under an hour but I do have a hoist and air tools. This included removal of the shifter and a bunch of extra bits that I transferred to the race truck. You CAN do this. Peach Parts was my source for the kit (all Sachs) and they were very fair in the pricing.

Dan
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  #6  
Old 04-21-2015, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PackerEdgerton View Post
Hi guys,


I asked him about
input shaft collar
clutch fork
slave cylinder

replacement. He said "Those really aren't wear items", I don't think it's really needed.
slave and master ARE wear item and must be inspected for leaks,..the rule
of the thumb overhere is if one leaks the second has to be changed..they tend to go bollocks one after another...

Luk is ok,Sachs is better...

cheeres

.
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  #7  
Old 04-21-2015, 04:23 PM
is thinning the herd
 
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The parts from Pelican is $331. Machinists usually charge like $40-50 around here to machine the flywheel. Some brake fluid to bleed the clutch and maybe change the fluid when you drop the trans. Call it $400 in parts to do it.

So $300 of labor to install, anymore that's only 3 hours of labor. It sounds like a lot given how trivial the job is but I think $700 is probably on the low end of what people will quote to do it.

That being said I totally agree with you Dan, if the OP has any DIY tendencies, I'd recommend he do it himself. With that saved $300 you could buy a new slave cylinder, and even a new master if you're feeling wealthy and still be ahead of the game. Also could be a good time to do a flex disc if yours isn't super fresh.
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  #8  
Old 04-21-2015, 09:44 PM
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A trans shop here in town (AAMCO) turned mine for free! They had done the trans in my Dodge so I guess it was a "thank you". BTW - when the flywheel is turned, the step that mounts the pressure plate (aka "clutch cover") must be turned the same amount as the flywheel face. If you look at the arrangement carefully you'll see why - otherwise you'll change the distance allotted for the clutch disc. A skilled machinist will know this but make sure it gets done.

I might have gotten my parts from another large, on-line source but I think I paid much less for Sachs stuff.

Dan
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  #9  
Old 04-21-2015, 10:08 PM
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I was quoted $900 for the same job locally by my trusted shop. I'd say you are being offered a good price by comparison.
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  #10  
Old 04-21-2015, 10:24 PM
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I suggest if you surface the flywheel to place a spacer behind it to keep your engagement point at the same place. I'd take a hard look at it and make sure it needs turning.
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  #11  
Old 04-21-2015, 10:37 PM
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Do the Flywheel Bolts need to be replaced?

Is there anything in the Manual that has the max amount of surface that can be removed from the Flywheel?
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  #12  
Old 04-22-2015, 08:03 AM
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I'm 145 lbs wet. And I pulled that sucker in and out in 2 hours with no jack. It's intimidating, but it's so light. If you have the aluminum case!!!! See if a magnet sticks.

You can measure the neck of the flywheel bolts. I had one below tolerance.

I really doubt the flywheel needs to be resurfaced. I guess if it's been smelling funny. But a simple rough up with cross hatch pattern via 80 grit Emry paper should do it.

And guys, INDEX THE FLYWHEEL!!! It has to go back in the same spot. Make sure they do if you don't.

And the rubber line if you do the slave. The hard line goes over the tranny, bolts the drivers side of the bell housing, and a rubber like goes from the there to the floor.

If you do the master there is a rubber line that goes from it to reservoir. It's low pressure. Don't mess up the fitting for the master. I used auto tranny cooler line. 8mm ID.
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  #13  
Old 04-22-2015, 08:52 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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I prolly would not do anything with the slave unless it is leaking. Its a totally separate project.
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #14  
Old 04-22-2015, 09:37 AM
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To avoid having to bleed the air from the clutch system, you can undo the two 13mm bolts that hold the slave in place, wire it out of the way then remove the tranny. I wouldn't replace the slave either, unless its leaking.
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  #15  
Old 04-22-2015, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Stokes View Post
A trans shop here in town (AAMCO) turned mine for free! They had done the trans in my Dodge so I guess it was a "thank you". BTW - when the flywheel is turned, the step that mounts the pressure plate (aka "clutch cover") must be turned the same amount as the flywheel face. If you look at the arrangement carefully you'll see why - otherwise you'll change the distance allotted for the clutch disc. A skilled machinist will know this but make sure it gets done.

I might have gotten my parts from another large, on-line source but I think I paid much less for Sachs stuff.

Dan
Here's an image of a 240D manual transmission flywheel. I can see 'the step' that mounts the clutch cover would need to be turned as noted by Dan.

Thanks!

Packman

[ATTACH]240D Manual Transmission Flywheel[/ATTACH]
Attached Thumbnails
Clutch Replacement Advice?-240d-flywheel.jpg  

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