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  #76  
Old 06-01-2015, 09:37 PM
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The OP still has not posted if the lower ball joint was seized.

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  #77  
Old 06-07-2015, 10:21 PM
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no it was not it came out very easy
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  #78  
Old 06-07-2015, 10:25 PM
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Would anyone know why the vendor is saying according to notes in his system my VIN suggests I replace both control arms at same time ?


Did any of you ran into this problem ?
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  #79  
Old 06-08-2015, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blk90s13 View Post
no it was not it came out very easy

Did the ball joint itself have freedom of movement, or was it "seized"?
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  #80  
Old 06-08-2015, 10:56 AM
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I am speculating, but I'll bet they say to replace in pairs so that both sides will be at equal height, assuming that worn inner bushings on the old side might make a difference. In general, always a good idea to replace brake and suspension components in pairs.

Please - was the failed part the original control arm, or did that sticker on it indicate that it was aftermarket?
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  #81  
Old 06-08-2015, 12:53 PM
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Replace in pairs is more likely a suspicion that if one side has accumulated enough rust to fail. The other side may not be all that far behind. In my climate if the drivers side is the side to fail then in all probability it is rust related. The drivers side seems to take more rusting damage than the passenger side of the car does. Road salt is more concentrated in the centre of the roads.

There is also a chance that there were questionable parts used originally. Perhaps under strength. The replacements could be better.

One could always ask if the vendor knows why two side replacement is suggested. Or even ask a Mercedes parts man. Years ago we had a gm product that the a arm got so weak it folded. I changed it.. The other side did the same thing maybe six months later. I think it probably was an issue on all those models of cars back then. Maybe poor quality metal? Poor quality metal also rusts faster.

I cannot even remember what exact model of gm it was. What I do remember is we occasionally serviced it for the customer. One day she took it to a garage for an engine noise. They told her she needed a new engine.

She brought a new car and had us pick up the old one. It was just a noisy mechanical fuel pump on the v6. The car was older but had low miles. We used it as a spare car for several years also I remember.

I also remember that other than that fuel pump and the folding a arms we had no trouble with that car.
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  #82  
Old 06-08-2015, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmog220d View Post
Did the ball joint itself have freedom of movement, or was it "seized"?
Yea, that's what my question was also. If the ball joint stem does not rotate / flex, suspension motion is transferred to the control arm.
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  #83  
Old 06-08-2015, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmog220d View Post
Did the ball joint itself have freedom of movement, or was it "seized"?
it is not seized it was moving but not entirely free as in back ball joint


Edit : This is a TYPO the back ball joint was supposed to be BAD ball joint
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Last edited by blk90s13; 06-18-2015 at 12:08 AM.
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  #84  
Old 06-08-2015, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxbumpo View Post
I am speculating, but I'll bet they say to replace in pairs so that both sides will be at equal height, assuming that worn inner bushings on the old side might make a difference. In general, always a good idea to replace brake and suspension components in pairs.

Please - was the failed part the original control arm, or did that sticker on it indicate that it was aftermarket?

I did suspect the part is not original and it had NO DRAIN HOLE I still got it and will soon take detailed pictures once I receive all the required tools to do the job

waiting on spring compressor now.
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  #85  
Old 06-09-2015, 10:48 AM
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I took my 98 E320 to local shop this morning. A lot easier to inspect control arms on hoist! With light and a mirror, shop owner and I could get a good look inside end of arms.

All we could see, was a little surface rust and the wax-like product that had been sprayed in. (Pictures I took with camera make the surface rust look a lot worse than it is).

There is of course no weld inside the arms, just on exterior. What looked like cracks on inside are, it seems, just the edge of the end casting where it protrudes through. The welds looked solid and there was no obvious thinning or penetration of the arms.

Shop recommended I do nothing other than keep doing the annual rust treatment that we do here in Canada. And make sure they apply it inside the arms!

The other important thing, would be to check at least once a year that the drain holes are open, otherwise moisture and salt will no doubt collect down the end where the arms are vulnerable.
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  #86  
Old 06-09-2015, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blk90s13 View Post
I did suspect the part is not original and it had NO DRAIN HOLE I still got it and will soon take detailed pictures once I receive all the required tools to do the job

waiting on spring compressor now.
stupid lying ebay seller... it was listed as being in NJ... apparently he SHIPS out from NJ, but the stinking tool is in china... due to deliver on the 15th...
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  #87  
Old 06-09-2015, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graham View Post
I took my 98 E320 to local shop this morning. A lot easier to inspect control arms on hoist! With light and a mirror, shop owner and I could get a good look inside end of arms.

All we could see, was a little surface rust and the wax-like product that had been sprayed in. (Pictures I took with camera make the surface rust look a lot worse than it is).

There is of course no weld inside the arms, just on exterior. What looked like cracks on inside are, it seems, just the edge of the end casting where it protrudes through. The welds looked solid and there was no obvious thinning or penetration of the arms.

Shop recommended I do nothing other than keep doing the annual rust treatment that we do here in Canada. And make sure they apply it inside the arms!

The other important thing, would be to check at least once a year that the drain holes are open, otherwise moisture and salt will no doubt collect down the end where the arms are vulnerable.
I remember reading somewhere about the maintenance of a W210 where the technician performing the maintenance should check all drain holes in the car.
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  #88  
Old 06-09-2015, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by vstech View Post
stupid lying ebay seller... it was listed as being in NJ... apparently he SHIPS out from NJ, but the stinking tool is in china... due to deliver on the 15th...
OH MAN !!
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  #89  
Old 06-09-2015, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blk90s13 View Post
it is not seized it was moving but not entirely free as in back ball joint

So the stem will rotate but not flex? If so that is was the case, the no flex is what broke the control arm.
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  #90  
Old 06-09-2015, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Zulfiqar View Post
I remember reading somewhere about the maintenance of a W210 where the technician performing the maintenance should check all drain holes in the car.
I don't know about any other drains, but those front control arms will fill with water at the lower outer end if the drains are blocked and eventually rust the arms from inside. One of mine was partly blocked just from road grime.

Don't know if there are any other similar points on the W210. I do know from experience that on our 300D, the hinge pockets will rust out if the drains are blocked

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