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#1
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I was planning on emptying all three of my cans of R12 into the system, but according to vstech, the system needs to get started with weighed liquid R12 first.
I also just saw that my Egelhof expansion valve has R 134a printed on it. I'm hoping that this means the valve is compatible with R134a, but not solely for use with it.
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'81 300SD |
#2
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Not an AC expert, but it you are keeping the system R-12, this doesn't sound right to me. Two different gasses with different pressure curves, I doubt a TX valve is made that is designed for both. However, the MB factory guide for replacing R-12 with R-134 does not require replacing the TX valve, so go figure.
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#3
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If the system gets all o rings changed, then oil installed, then pressurized with a dry gas and leak tested. Then it needs to be totally evacuated, and liquid weighed in, the high side, then vapor topped off until proper subcooled liquid is in the receiver.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! ![]() 1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#4
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Bummer. I was hoping that I could just use the three 14oz. cans of R12 that I have. I know of a garage that still has R12, but it's $70 a pound. Would you guess that they'll use 2 pounds of their R12, then top off with whatever they can use of mine?
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'81 300SD |
#5
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Systems are never charged through the high side when running. Charging through the low side with vapor while running is typical.
A heated charging station is really needed if pumping liquid through a non running high side. Even then that is more for large scale charging / at the factory charging. What is the capacity of your AC system? What you do is divide can contents into AC capacity. If part of a can is needed, weigh the can / valve / hose as hooked to the car, watch the weight change then shut off the can when done. |
#6
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The R12 capacity for my car is 3.3 lbs.(52.8 oz.) . I have 42 ounces of R12 in cans, so I was just going to empty all of them into the low side port and top off at the shop if the vent temp wasn't satisfactory.
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'81 300SD |
#7
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I got started on the job last night, and threading the bottom two fittings back into the expansion valve is a nightmare! I threaded the top two fittings in no problem and left them very loose so that I would have enough play to get the bottom ones started. Since that didn't work, I torqued up the top fittings thinking that raising the valve up might help line up the bottom, no luck.I then checked the engine bay to see of I could create a little more slack in the bottom hoses by disconnecting them an pushing them towards the firewall. The plastic sound buffer prevents either of those lines from moving back to give me the slack that I need. Any tips from guys who have done this before? Thanks
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'81 300SD |
#8
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Quote:
OK got it, I was thinking the system took less than that. I'd still have the shop pressure test before you recharge in case there is a major leak. You will need them to vacuum the system before you recharge anyway. |
#9
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Oil: what weight of oil does your compressor need? When I started doing AC work on my cars, I had no idea there were different weights of oil required by different compressors. My 124 cars need a light weight oil (40? from foggy memory), most of the oil on the shelf at FLAPS is 100.
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#10
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It depends on the compressor used. The R4 does not have a sump or drain plug.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D |
#11
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It's an R4. If I have the car on ramps, maybe the oil will flow out when I remove those lines at the back.
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'81 300SD |
#12
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It depends on the oil level. Turning an R4 ports side down will remove some oil. there is also oil in the dryer, condenser, etc. When I rebuilt my A/C system, I flushed it with Methanol, and replaced the expansion valve, drier, pressure switches and the compressor. Also replaced all the O-rings and used the "Baby snot" o-ring lube, and BG Fridgi-quite oil. That was 10 years ago.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D |
#13
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It's been a while, but I finally completed the project, or so I thought. After replacing the expansion valve, dryer, aux fan switch, pressure switch, manifold hoses and getting the compressor resealed I charged the system with 3 cans of R12 and got enough cold air to know that the system is working at least adequately. I put in 42oz. of R12 which is 10 oz. below capacity because I only have 2 cans left and the season is almost over. The bad news is that 4 days after charging I can tell that I've already lost some freon
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'81 300SD |
#14
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Quote:
The TxV will hiss if you are low on refrigerant. You already mentioned it was low to start with. Charge the system until the sight glass runs clear on the hottest day possible. If it leaks after that, you need to find the leak. Ideally, you want to charge by weight but if you are adding a charge, go by the sight glass when using R12.
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors. 2003 S430 - 107K 1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+. 1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K. Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge |
#15
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Quote:
Using it to charge runs the serious chance of Overcharging your system... about the last thing you want to do.. since AC works on the differential between the high and low sides...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
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