On the opposite side of the band piston is this part..It anchors the band on the one side..

That rod sticking out has to engage the band in the hole of the bracket for the band..You know what I am saying..

The part has 2 sealing O rings..included in the master kit..

Grease up the bore for this part and the part with the o rings..

The part will only go in when it lines up with the slot on the case and the tab of the part..You just can't put it in wrong..

But you need to be sure that the rod of the part engages the band in the bands bracket..You can get the part in without it being engaged into the band..
Be sure it is done right..

Last photo shows the plug that seals it over..There is no o ring or gasket for this part..I put a little grease on the threads to make it go in easier..

In the piston bore goes this yellow plastic guide piece..It acts like a set of tracks for the band to slide on and in between to keep it moving straight..

First picture shows the 2 little nubs that go into the 2 holes in the case..

Second pic shows the plastic part installed but it is not right with the band..and you would not be able to install the piston correctly because the band is out of it's proper position in regards to the plastic guide piece..

Third pic shows that you can't see the dimple hole of the band bracket..

Forth pic shows the band installed correctly..

And the 5th shows the dimple hole of the band..Just be sure it is right!!

The front of the transmission in regards to the front pump has a thrust clearance that has to be set up.

I posted 2 pages of the manual ...Step 35 of page 103 shows the procedure to check this distance..Just follow and understand it and you will be just fine..

But I can see that it is critical...too tight and things can't spin right..Too loose and it slams it's self back and forth till it tears it self apart!!

When I took it apart it had these thrust spacers and this needle thrust bearing..

After measuring everything as shown in the manual, the original thrust spacers and bearing was just right..It pretty much had to be as the transmission was doing fine..It there was a problem showing it would be pretty evident..

Is that a wooden straight edge?

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...722-315-16.jpg

Stretch...
 

...it appears to be a vintage wood-grained titanium straightedge...I want one!
This is a thread we need to see come to a successful completion. I have a 722.117 sitting in the garage that needs attention...I found the failure point, now I need to order the parts to put it back together.
While we have a lot of issues to address, eventually we might find similar issues with dodgy transmissions, and I think we may be nearing the time we get a "Transmission Sticky" that addresses this.
Kudos to the original poster!

Cheers,

snapped_bolt

Hi Stretch,

You caught me!! Yes that is a piece of yard stick and it was the only thing that I had to use..

When you got to get it done, you go with what you got!!..I made sure that it was straight and I took measurements with it flipped end to and and edge to edge..The same numbers kept coming up..
I didn't have one of those super precision straight edges that would fit across that short span..

I ended up putting in the original spacers and I don't think there is a problem with that..

Your 722.117 is a completely different tranny than my 722.315..
I was able to find on E bay a ATSG service manual covering your 722.1xx model..

I bought it because the tranny in my 1978 sd is loosing it's reverse gear.It is a 722.120 In the morning I have to push it out of the garage..After it is warmed up, it works just fine..All forward gears are fine no matter the temp.
So it looks like I will be tearing it apart, come next year early

Thanks for the Kudos!!

Mke

.117 is very close to this one =>

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/304903-722-118-automatic-transmission-rebuild-monster-diy.html

(Neither did I)

Time to install the front pump and reverse piston..

Earlier this pump piston assemble was rebuilt..I can't remember what page it was on but I showed you how to do it..

There is 2 white sealing rings on the center shaft of the pump..They are included in the master kit and you just smear them up with the grease and the rings need to be tight in the grooves with the over lap ends actually over lapping them self properly..

So the grease acts as a ring compressor to keep them tight as you slip the pump in..

The transmission is still standing on its end with the output shaft through a hole in the workbench..Gravity keeps the center guts in place..If the trans was setting horizontal, the center pieces could be all out of place..

So now those spacers and thrust washers shown just a couple of post ago are greased up and installed..The spacers go first with the bearing going last..In essence on top of everything..

I smeared a little assemble grease on the back side of the gasket and set it on the trans case with holes all lined up..Just be sure it is right and to position it wrong or backwards can't be done because the gasket will block some holes if it position wrong..

I smeared more grease on the pump at the appropriate places and on the perimeter of the base where the bore of the tunnel fits tight to the pump..

It is a tight fit there and that is why you need to press the pump apart when you where taking it apart in the first place..I thought that a little grease would make the assemble go together a little smoother and it did..

The bolts that hold the pump to the case are long enough to start the thread of the bolt before you start pressing in the pump..

So you just hold the pump up above the trans and get 2 or 3 bolts started in..That will line everything up and you can started pressing in the pump slowly with the rest of the bolts..

Don't just tighten one bolt..tighten each bolt maybe 1/2 turn as you zig zag back and forth to each bolt..You want to press it home evenly..

After the bolts are down all the way, there is a torque setting..Can't remember what it is but it is in the manual..

Now that the center parts are all in, try to give the input shaft a spin by hand..It should turn but it will be a heavy turn..The out put shaft was the same..They spun without any hangups..

Now that the pump is in, flip the tranny on its bellhousing..There is 2 lugs that are on the perimeter of the bell housing that will cause the tranny to wobble on the bench..A couple of short 2x4 wood pieces will raise the tranny up above those lugs and make it to be stable to the bench.The weight is now on the bell housing..

The first picture shows the empty tail housing area..The only thing in there is the mounting bolts of the rear support piece and that little steel oil tube, put in earlier..

Get out this ring and drive gear for the governor.

The ring slides over the output shaft and drops into it's groove on the output shaft..

This yellow thing with the steel shaft is next..It took a bit to get it out and the same work to get it in..There is a certain position in the case that you work the shaft in..You will find it out as it is the only way to get it in there ..The shaft goes to the area where the secondary pump is ..The install of the pump as I will show you, has a step that holds this yellow shaft thing in place..

The Governor is next..Be sure that it is moving correctly..As the speed of the governor spinning increases with the out put shaft, that causes the governor weights to fly outward..The weights are attached in the center shaft of the governor to a hydraulic spool..That spool need to move freely to do what it does..If the spool or weights of the governor bind up..you need to fix that ..The governor need to work like it is suppose to or the tranny won't work right..Duh!!

Grease it all up and also the bore in the case that the governor spins on..
The governor should slip right in and spin easy in it's position..

Now grease up that drive gear shown in the previous post..You may need to slip the governor out of it position to get the 2 gears to engage each other..

But the drive gear as it slips over the output shaft will have a slight pop as it snaps onto the ring that you put on a step ago..It is like it snaps into its final position on the shaft..You will feel it go on..

You can do this in reverse if you want..Slide the drive gear on the shaft..let it pop in position..
Then slide in the governor, engaging the 2 gears..But this method, you won't be able to spin the governor..to be sure that is it free in its position..

So the way I did it was install the governor first..be sure it spins easy then slide the gear down on the output shaft to engage the snap ring and gear of the governor

Got it? Good !!!

Before all the other little parts are put in ,I want to show how I set up the output shaft end play..

With the transmission setting on the bell housing, the weight of the output shaft is setting on a thrust bearing in the center section..

After the ring clip..drive gear for the governor..and the parking gear have been installed ( I know that there is suppose to be a shim ring between the drive gear and parking gear. The thickness of this shim is what we are trying to figure out)...put on a gasket, be sure the output shaft bearing is in right in the tail housing piece with the retaining c clip holding the bearing in place..

Using 2-3 bolts put the tail housing on..you don't need to install all the bolts..

Don't have your output rear seal installed yet either..it will get wrecked with what you are trying to do here..

Screw on the large final nut on to the shaft..you don't need to tighten it.just don't rotate it while you are doing this as it will upset the reading.Look at the third picture..

I used a large end wrench to lift the shaft out measuring the movement on the dial indicator and then let it(the shaft) back down..reading the dial to be sure of the distance..

That distance is suppose to be .4-.5 mm--16-20 thousand...

I had 38 thousand with out the shim installed..Installing a .5 mm shim between the drive gear and the parking gear gave me 18 thousands movement of the shaft..That is what it needs to be..

Originally it had a .1mm and a 2mm metal spacer..That made too much thrust and that is why the .1mm spacer was broken because things were bouncing around too much.

With the .1 and .2 shim, the thrust would have been 24-25 thousand..I don't think it would have wreck the tranny as it went many miles like that..

After taking off the tail housing, parking brake gear, I installed a .5 thrust washer and put it all back as before for the dial indicator..

You can see the dial and the wrench lifting the shaft out..18 thousand different..

That is it..once that is set, you can put all the other parts in..I will show you that next..

So did everyone understand that..

Okay now the thing is..once you have that thrust figured out..You install the rest of the parts on the shaft..starting from the bottom..clip ring..drive gear for the governor...thrust washer (mine was .5mm)..parking gear...gasket..tail housing with output bearing and bearing clip in place...3 point output yolk and finally the large nut and tighten it all down..

But that takes up all the space that you just set up..the 16-20thousand..As you tighten the large nut, it squeezes all those parts tight together..

What you are really doing is lifting the shaft off that thrust washer that the shaft was originally setting on..That is where the 16-20 thousand is located..between the thrust bearing and the output shaft..

The output shaft is locked into place with the tail housing..but it is creating space of 16-20 in the center of the transmission..

Get it??

Now that the trust of the output shaft is done,Take off the tail housing, remove the parking gear..

We can start stuffing in the rest of the small but important parts..

Install the oil tube that squirts oil at the 2 governor gears..

Before you put in the tube, blow air thru it to be sure it isn't plugged..It is just a pin hole diameter for the oil to pass thru..Just be sure it is not plugged..

The pictures show the install..there is no o ring involved to worry about

Mike