Be sure to drop this yellow piece down in position on the governor shaft..

This yellow piece is what holds the governor from trying to leave it's intended position in the case..And the yellow piece will be locked in it's position when we install the secondary pump ..

Here is the pdf of the secondary pump in the manual..

Nice exploded view of it..This pump only works when the engine is off and when the car is being towed with it's rear wheels spinning..

The pump is driven by way of the driveshaft- output shaft of the tranny--governor and then off of the governor..

When the engine is spinning, the main pump is producing oil pressure and with this oil pressure, the piston in the secondary pump, disengages the secondary pump from the governor..As long as there is main oil pump pressure, this secondary does nothing..It doesn't spin or anything..

But if you are towing the car without the engine on, the piston in the secondary pump reengages the governor shaft and produces oil pressure, basically to lube all the internal parts that need to be wet as they are turning..Keep the tranny from burning up

The following pictures show some of the assemble of the pump..

Seal rings and thing needed to rebuild the pump come in the master kit

The first pic shows the dividing plate and the sealing ring in place..

This is the sealing ring that started all of this..It was missing if you recall and the pump leaked like crazy..But for a long time (years) it didn't leak and we put thousands of miles on it with no leaks..

You can see the shaft of the governor retainer sticking out of the case on the left side of the pump area..

Second pic shows the pump installed and the nut that hold the governor shaft in its place..Make sure the governor retainer is doing it's job, engaged with the shaft of the governor..You seen that in the previous post

The nut is tighten to keep the retainer from rotating away from the governor..

Be sure this is right..Self destruction if it is wrong!!

The cover plate for the governor

Grease up the sealing ring and the area where the ring goes in..

Put a little grease on the edge of the governor seal cap..It will slide in place easier and keep the o ring from rolling out of position..

Snap the c clip ring in place..

From the inside of the tail housing area, you can see the cap..With a long screwdriver, press the cap outward to have it tight to the c clip ring..Keep it from rubbing on the spinning governor that way..

So in the last picture you see the governor in..The governor retainer in it's proper place..drive gear for the governor installed on the output shaft..You install this drive gear after that c clip ring is installed on the output shaft shown earlier..remember?

And also the spacer ring (mine was .5 mm..20thousands)..determined in the step showing the thrust set up for the output shaft

Lets keep going..

Time to install the shift linkage..

The linkage can't go in backwards..Well I guess it could but you wouldn't be able to hook it up..

It goes in from the throttle body towards the rear..

Then you install the roller on the shaft and then the plastic piece that holds it in position..

The last 2 pictures are actually from the tear down of the tranny

The shift linkage, when you are engaging the park position moves forward to shift it into park

The next post will show the parking arm and gear in place and tested to be sure it goes into park correctly

Installing the parking arm and gear
In the first picture you see the install of the arm and spring..

there is suppose to be a thrust washer on the arm pivot shaft that is first on before you put on the arm..

In the tear apart of the trans, there was no thrust washer and nothing went wrong without it..So it is without it again!!

Then the parking gear is slid down the output shaft setting on top of the thrust washer

In the last 2 photos shows the action of that roller on the shift linkage shaft..how it just pushes the arm into engagement with the parking gear..You are in park!!

That pretty well finishes the tail section..Here is a sheet out of the repair manual..

Install the output shaft seal before you install the tail cover..easier that way..

use the gasket that you were using to setup the thrust of the output shaft..

the sheet gives the rest of the story and the torque values for the tail shaft housing bolts and the big tail shaft flange nut.. 30 mm 12 point socket used
on this..I am lucky to not have the 4 slot type of nut.

Now all of the outside stuff around the tranny can be installed..Such as the pistons, modulator, solenoid kick down valve..

Time for the electric kick down solenoid

This is the valve solenoid that is activated when you slam your foot down..on the accelerator

The switch under the accelerator pedal makes this solenoid valve work

3 o rings and an aluminum seal ring..Look at the position of the seal ring

It doesn't go on the end..It is between the case and the solenoid..

Just lube everything up and it will go in the case just fine..

The wire to the solenoid was cut as I was taking the engine/trans out..Just splice it back after it is put back in

Woo Hoo!! Did everyone see that I was mentioned in the Pelican Pit stop news e mail??
I am Famous!!!

The forward piston install

This is the piston with the big springs that go with it

In the manual, it talks about pistons that are adjustable in their lengths..washer spacers..
Mine had no adjustment to it..Just replaced the rubber o ring from the master kit..

Lube up everything..the bore for the piston and the new red sealing o ring..

Make sure that the cover for it is really clean and the sealing area of that seals with the red o ring is good..If this is going to leak, here is where it will happen..

The first picture shows the bore..At about the 8 o'clock position you can see the oil port that fills the piston bore and pushes the piston inward to activate the band..
With that high pressure being contained by that red o ring and the cover..That seal has to be right or it will leak all over the place..

This is the piston that really can't be serviced in the car..I wish it was designed with a bolt on cover and gasket


Using the big bar clamp, just guide the spring-piston in and watch the piston rod engage the band as you clamp it down..

With the grease, the clamping force was less to get it in then it was to get it out originally..

Then install the c clip..The springs will slam the cover outward against the c clip

In regards to the free play, it seemed like there was enough..the band was fully disengaged..
This was the band that was worn out seen during the tear down

How did the build turn out? :)

I don't know yet..

I installed it with the rebuilt engine..started it up with about 4 quarts in the pan and slowly filled it up as it got warmer..

I dropped it into reverse..Perfect engage..Put it in drive..And took it to the end of the street..Got it into 3 rd gear..but I wanted to get the rest of the car done before taking it on the highway..

I tore out the complete rearend assemble..Rebuilt everything..Bushings etc..

And now I am rebuilding the front end..Total tearout and rebuild of everything..

It is up on a stand and I am almost done with it..

I lost interest in this thread as it seems no one was replying or even looking at it..

Mike

Oh, I did not want to keep commenting as I thought it was going to be a sticky. :confused: Trans seems far more simple than the FSM depicts.

Front end is easy, I can have it fully out in about 3.5 hours. Use the OE ball joint press to reinstall the joints. Caster rod removal is easy, give them a firm whack on a sheet of plywood (with the rod to the LCA still installed) and they will pop right out. :) The four caster rod bushings that hold it to the body are not hard, just a PITA to keep square while pressing in the bracket. Use a press and Astroglide.

LCA bushings are the most difficult thing to install to me. Brake end play is easy enough. UCA are a breeze.

Install new springs and shims while it is down, they always sag some (or a bunch) with age.

Au contrare. I find your post fascinating. Like most here, I have never tackled rebuilding a M-B tranny. Your experience and photos will surely help if I ever do. No current need to do so and the parts cost is rather amazing, at least compared to the 2 Chrysler trannys I rebuilt, which proved fairly easy by following the shop manuals.

You need to keep on keeping on!

I've done many a long thread and people come and people go - keep on with it if you're enjoying yourself and I'm sure others will join in when the need arises

I am back!!
 

I was a bit nervous about this whole thing..Maybe that is why I haven't been posting for a while..

I finally took it for a 2 mile ride..I had been rebuilding the front end for the longest time and finally done with that..

I won't get into the details of how the tranny did..but I am all smiles!!
I will let everyone know after all the posts are complete on how it shifted and performed..but am i relieved!!

So lets get back at this..
Rear piston install
first 2 pictures from the manual..This manual is very detailed..Like I said earlier, I printed it completely out and had each page as needed open in front of me at each stage of the rebuild

Third pic shows the updated guide bushing installed
Forth pic is the seal..comes in the master kit..That updated guide bushing is purchased separate.

Final pic shows the piston with the new plastic seal ring installed..seal ring is with the master kit..