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#1
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About 10 years ago, I bought rebuild parts from a company via the web. I'll get the name at home. They put together a kit w/ two gasket sets - upper and lower, crank & rod bearings, and rings. It wasn't too expensive ~$200, but no pistons (turbo cost $550 ea new if you can find them).
I knew my 1985's engine was going, but when it failed I found a great new engine, so still haven't used the kit other than steal a few parts which I replaced (from PP) to keep it complete. So far, I changed the cylinder sleeves in the old block, but haven't taken it to a shop for machining. Unlike most gas engines, you replace the sleeves so can re-use old pistons if they aren't damaged. Some of mine were, but I bought a used set from RollGuy here. You can buy a rebuilt engine, but ~$8500. That isn't an extra zero, these aren't a Chevy small block. I saw an engineer-rebuilt one sell on ebay for much less (~$1000). One guy here posted photos of a 3-day rebuild, all at his remote ranch, but he has a block surfacing machine and other extreme goodies. I lucked out since my used engine was only $300 w/ accessories (starter, alt, ...) and was like new (>400 psig all cylinders, new camshaft).
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's 1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport 1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans |
#2
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Thanks, Bill. I'd really appreciate the contact info for your vendor. I have another engine lined up from a forum member and that's the one I'd like to freshen up. It may not need much - he's measured and recorded oil pressure and compression so I'm sort of back and forth as to taking it apart.
I hope to get out to the shop tomorrow (today sort of evaporated) and once all is bolted up I'll run a compression check just to see what I have with the current engine. When I have the $$ for the Swedish pump I'm also wondering about a stouter cam and other bits - hard to know ehere to put limited funds. Dan |
#3
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Quote:
EACH of those sleeves which he installed in his block... are , according to the FSM, to be measured along with the pistons and that information USED TO bore/ hone the SAME SLEEVE A PISTON IS GOING TO BE PUT INTO..... It is very exact in its instructions... even telling you how much to leave for the honing and crosshatching stage.... These engines do not give the amazing service they do BY ACCIDENT.... they are designed and built by OCD German Engineers who were constantly receiving feedback from the real world.... and thus many parts have THREE ITERATIONS..... so in addition to reading and following the FSM... check on the possibility of improvements which may have been made.... like the head gaskets which have more or less holes for cooling than the original.... you sure want to end up with the very latest and best developments they made to your engine.
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
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