What's an OFV spring?

Speaking of springs; I removed the pedal/throttle spring on my 300SD, applied a little bit of heat to stretch it out a bit and now the pedal feels a lot better. I was getting tired of lubricating the linkage every couple of months.

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'81 300SD

OFV = Over Fuel Valve?

Adjusted - Fuel Bypass Spring


Charlie


sent from my pos computer

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Horse hair cushion material....

Lefebvre's Upholstery: My Furniture is Stuffed with WHAT?

"""Horse Hair: Horse hair is by far the best material to be found in antique upholstery, and it is usually a sign of a quality piece. The hair is a rich black, and has a very springy "plastic-y" feel. Because it was expensive, it will often be found only as a thin top layer over a cheaper stuffing (such as straw and moss), or mixed together with cheaper curled hair."""

Horsehair upholstery - Our Cars & Restoration Projects - AACA Forums

""".... but I prefer the 100% horsehair. A typical buildup for a seat cushion or backrest would be; burlap, piled horsehair (pile much higher than finished product as it will compress), a thin layer of cotton, then leather. It takes time, as you have to go through the hair and make sure there are no burrs, chunks of skin, etc. Foam should never be used on early automobiles, it is just not correct. A good job of horsehair is very comfortable, too, and will spring back to original configuration another 100 years."""

COACHBUILD.com

In the early days of Boston , Ma some people built their houses from brick.. some from wood... one might think the brick houses were the expensive ones... clearly a longer lasting building material than wood....but the reality of the situation was that the bricks had been used as ballast in ships which came from across the Atlantic... thus the bricks were discarded as trash and valuable goods were put into the ships to go back to Europe..
In a society which where mobile power was horse drawn.... horse manes and tails were readily available and cheap... but also one of the best materials for sitting on in buck boards, stage coaches, carriages, and furniture inside houses...
Then as horses gave way to automobiles.... horsehair was still one of the best cushion materials... but became expensive.... our MB's were expensive cars at the time they were made and I see horsehair , alone or mixed with other materials, as an indication of the quality the Germans expected to be in these cars...

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Nice links leathermang!

-I agree with Charlie, I switched out my entire driver seat with a W126 seat. The guy who sold it to me took the rails and off so all I had to do was spend a mere 5 hours putting my rails on it. My back and derriere however; have been much happier since. I m sure there is a pictorial somewhere but I didnt bother to check just went for it. It takes some patience but it totally doable. Remember to take photos of every step as you dismantle your old rails to reference when reassembling on the new seat.

- On the W123, is you have a pre 1980 car your glow plugs are probably the loop style and are nearly not as effective if you live in a colder climate. I would suggest upgrading to the pencil style plugs. They are readily available online and there is a fantastic pictorial on dieselgiant.com . If your current relay is fine, dont mess with it - just clean the contacts and put it back in. Your starting performance will improve drastically and your cheeks will hurt from smiling.

-Accelerator pedal bushing. There is a plastic bushing behind the accelerator pedal that wears out and stretches over time. Its $3.75 online and takes maybe 100 seconds to replace. It ll get rid of a source of rattling noise from inside the cabin, which I m sure everyone will appreciate.

-Radio upgrade. Now bear with me. I understand our precious Beckers are awesome but many people use mp3 players and/or stream music on their phones. Dont go and spend money on a "classic" looking head unit just to have modern functionality. There is actually an AUX in on the back of most old Becker/Blaupunkt radios. All you need is a cable to activate it. I made my own with a 5 pin DIN or MIDI connector on one end and a 1/8" mini TRS like a head phone jack on the other. They are available online. (I can build you one. I make cables and other recording equipment for a living). This cable will allow you to connect whatever device you want via its headphone out, which is amazing.
Also, if you are doing that, upgrade your speakers to more efficient ones (lots of literature on how to figure this out online) or combine new speakers with an amp. The sound will be drastically improved. (There are modern amps with small foot prints that can be hidden easily out of view). The wiring for the speakers on cars with 4 speakers is questionable since 4-channel radios were not common back then, this can be solved and simplified easily. Again, lots of info and threads are already available on this. Edit : I know you can really splurge on speakers/amps but dont. Efficiency trumps brand name and/or overinflated prices due to said brand name. Do this only if you really need it. The cable alone is cheap and yields greater results.

-exhaust hanger donuts. These are cheap, grab a bunch and keep them. If one breaks, just replace it, super easy.

-Air cleaner box rubber mounts. These are high failure items. Most are made in china or india and the rubber is garbage so they will fail. But they are a few cents each so buy a handful and swap out as they go bad. Also easy and the result is less annoying rattles etc. While the air cleaner box is off, it wouldnt hurt to clean the space under it. The crankcase breather hose goes through there and if its old, there will be lots of oil residue and black stuff. Clean it.

-crankcase breather hose, see above.

The short piece of rubber hose that goes from the fuel tank to the hard line gets old and needs to be replaced. Instead of buying a new one for 30 bucks, take the old one off, use a dremel to CAREFULLY cut off the compression collar that crimps the hose in place, and underneath will be a standard hose barb. Put a new piece of regular fuel hose (like in the engine bay) over it and hold it in place with a clamp. Don't use the worm clamps with the slots in it as that style cuts into the hose and squeezes it out of shape. Costs $2 instead of $30.

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'84 190D 2.2 5MT (Red/Palomino) Current car. Love it!
'85 190D 2.2 Auto *Cali* (Blue/Blue) *sold*
http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/302601.png
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/sideview.png

That is good to know... going to have to pull mine too and check for the jack. Do you know if it's a signal over ride input or does the plug wiring activate the AUX line? I had a tape deck way back when, where the FM signal would creep through if the aux signal got too quiet...