So my Mercedes is a 1976 Mercedes 300d that was imported from Germany with a standard transmission. The clutch would not disengage so I replaced pretty much everything but now I have the transmission out of the car and the problem was the clutch was seized to the pressure plate.

While I'm in this deep I want to go ahead and replace the clutch (even though it looks fine). The bearings definitely have seen better days so Ill get the whole kit.

My main question is that my flywheel and bellhousing look different than most pictures online I have seen of this job. The flywheel in particular has a large metal ring that teh clutch recesses into. Is the European variety of this transmission different than the one in the American 240D?

Should I have the flywheel turned at a machine shop?

Also the pilot bearing appears to be behind a metal cover. Do you remove this pilot bearing the same as you would any other vehicle with a pilot bearing removal slide hammer?





OK thanks, Alex

One other thing... It looks like there is a pretty decent oil leak in the bell housing. Should I pull the flywheel and replace the rear oil seal. OK thanks again, Alex

__________________
'76 300D Euro Model 4sp Manual 108k
'83 300D 4sp Manual Conversion

(my flywheel and bellhousing look different than most pictures online I have seen of this job)

you have the much sought after and rare(here) 38# flywheel
as compared to the 28# 240D flywheel. feel fortunate

The flywheel configuration is correct for the engine.
The cover over the pilot bearing will pop out when the bearing is pulled with a slide hammer.
The crankshaft rear seal is serviced with the oil sump removed, and the crankshaft lowered. The seal is a "rope" type.

The replacement of the rear seal is not really practical without removeing the motor. I'd prolly put in the clutch etc and run it with clean oil and see if it still leaks. The rear seal on these cars is not known as a likely leaker in most cases. Perhaps if the bearings were heavily worn...

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I have the lighter flywheel (240D) but it looks about the same. It must have been sitting for a while to seize on there like that!

First of all - make sure the shop doing the turning knows what they are doing! The clutch surface must be machined (probably ground) and the step for the pressure plate must be lowered the same amount as the clutch surface! Some shops don't seem to get this. Our local AAMCO is top-notch and did mine perfectly.

I got a Sachs clutch kit from Pelican and so far it's been perfect. Remember, mine is used 100% for racing so it's had a pretty tough life though not a lot of miles. The pilot bearing can be a PITA but that European engine may have the proper diameter crank hole - the US automatic trans cranks do not and require significant fiddling.

When you remove the flywheel mark the crank and the flywheel (a centerpunch will do nicely) so you can put it back on with proper balance to the engine. I'm told some are neutral balanced and some are not so you might as well put it on where it came off.

Changing the rear crank seal is a CHORE!! I've done it and the process is laid out in my build thread though I just copied the process from a previous "how-to" thread that someone kindly posted up for me. I don't see how you would do this w/o pulling the engine and flipping it on an engine stand. Unless it's a gusher I'd put your car back together and see how it does after you've driven it a bit. Then if it does leak you can try one of the engine sealer additives. I'm not a big fan of snake oil but this is a difficult enough job to try it and see if it helps. If all else fails you'll need to pull the engine and have at it.

Dan

Thanks for the replies. That save me from pulling the flywheel.

Is the clutch that I can readily get from autozone for the 240D correct for this engine/flywheel?

Or should I order the clutch online somewhere?

Also one other question. My flex discs looked alright but there was a weighted rubber part mounted on the driveshaft side that did have cracks. (it almost looked like some sort of steel flywheel for the driveshaft that was shock mounted with rubber.) what is this called and should I replace it.



Thanks, Again, Alex

That rubber is a vibration dampner for the driveshaft...What I have been told is that it is NLA and no longer used. So you can just remove it and running the car with out it....But I would recommend buying new Mercedes brand flex discs, and center carrier barring....If you bend the flex disc and see any cracking they are to old and will fail soon....

Another FYI....When owning one of these cars, please for the love of the gods don't buy your parts from Autozone or any other auto zoo....use this site for ordering parts....

Also....Are you sure the clutch was seized and not that the hydraulic clutch master and slave cylinders were at fault? Which also should be rebuilt/replaced....

__________________

One thing....I am pretty certain all the automatic cars have pilot bearing holes too. I know all mine did.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

all the 240 parts should work fine.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Mine has the hole but is slightly smaller (can't remember the numbers right now) than the manual trans pilot OD. Shouldn't be an issue for the OP.

Trust me, not all the 240D parts exchange with a euro 300D.....ALWAYS use the epc to check....

http://epc.startekinfo.com/

__________________

Flex discs come in more than one ' hardness' ... or 'flexibility quotient'
and the interesting thing is that some cars USE TWO DIFFERENT ONES on the same car... so research this before buying those new ones....

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

I'd agree with getting the parts here. Pelican really has fair prices and everything I've gotten is top-notch.

And yes, you DO need to pull the flywheel! That sucker needs turning. You'll need the proper 12 point socket (12mm IIRC) and there's a measurement for the bolt lengths (help me out here guys). If they're longer than the spec you'll need new ones - not too expensive and I think Pelican has them, too. Mine were OK. The bolts are stretch-to-yield (sometimes called "torque-to-yield") and have only a use or two before they exceed their elastic limit. Some folks never reuse them but Mercedes does have a spec for safe reuse and as cautious as they tend to be I went with that.

Dan

Agree, if you look in my thread below....You will see I have the same setup as he has on his 300D. Though I don't know if this is a w115 or a w123 but the flex disc the epc gave me the part number for were these and only showed one part number for both. I believe that mercedes had stopped the different hardness of flex discs via the front and the back but don't quote me on that...

Pelican Parts - Product Information: 123-410-00-15-MBZ

__________________