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Old 11-01-2015, 01:45 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 49
Before I started surgery I would remove the tranny cross member after removing the two bolts that attach the mount to the cross member.

Then I would get a 6 point wrench on the nut, there is very little room to swing the wrench on the nut because it sits in a space boxed on three sides. Good! Instead of turning that very difficult to turn nut, use a big wrench adjustable or otherwise as long as it fits maybe even with a cheater bar to turn the upper section of the steel mount that the stud is welded as part of. You can even cut the mount apart if it hasn't come apart already, getting the lower part out of the mix altogether. Maybe stick a small piece of wood or something along side the 19 mm wrench if and where it might make contact with the aluminum sides of the space where the nut is being held by the wrench. If there is a helper he could use a 2X4 braced up along the driveshaft and the wrench handle to prevent the 19 mm wrench from swinging too far or hard. having a couple foot of tool handle to apply torque to the mount should make short work of getting the stud and nut apart.

The steel plate along the top of the mount that the stud is welded to is in direct contact with the bottom of the aluminum tail piece of the tranny, might be difficult to separate that plate from the stud without taking at least a Sawzall blade kerf's thickness off the underside of that aluminum tail piece.

On a side note I thought I saw Carbide tipped Sawzall blades at Home Depot, Diablo Brand I think.
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Old 11-01-2015, 09:56 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: central Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopKnot View Post
...... On a side note I thought I saw Carbide tipped Sawzall blades at Home Depot, Diablo Brand I think.
Diablo is a good brand.. so are these..
RemGrit 6 in. x 3/4 in. x 0.032 in. Carbide Grit Reciprocating Saw Blade-E0406122 - The Home Depot
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