needed work: engine mount, shifter bushings and driver's side lower ball joint - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ngarover · #1 11-14-2015, 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

I've got all bushings on order. Did you get the special bushing pliers or took the linkages out to press them in?

I took out the linkages last time... most likely do same this time. I avoid special tools unless absolutely required.

Thinking about doing this tomorrow since I got some of the other stuff done the car needed today. I can take some pictures if I do.

funola · #2 11-14-2015, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ngarover

I took out the linkages last time... most likely do same this time. I avoid special tools unless absolutely required.

Thinking about doing this tomorrow since I got some of the other stuff done the car needed today. I can take some pictures if I do.

Please do take pics. It's great that you are replacing a lot of parts on your Euro TD. Does the power windows work without the key but only if the door (just driver's door I assume) is open?

Diesel911 · #3 11-14-2015, 01:02 PM

I found this in my other notes:
A 116 586 04 33 Lower Ball Joint Boot kit with hardware

A 116 586 05 33 Upper control Arm boot kit with hardware Boot only

BillGrissom · #4 11-14-2015, 10:28 PM

I would never replace a ball joint just to fix a torn boot. I just clean well and wrap w/ self-fusing silicone "electrical" tape (Ace Hardware). No guarantee a new ball joint boot won't be cracked in a year. I recall that when I changed the worn lower ball joint in my 300D, I didn't even use the thin rubber boot that came with it, but rather a polyurethane one from Energy Suspension. I have done that in most my cars. Ditto for tie rod ends.

Even with the replacement spindle ready to go, it may not be a trivial easy job. I had to run out and buy a different pickle fork and cut the tips off so it didn't bottom out on the spindle. Some swear by the "2 hammer method" to separate ball joint studs, but has never worked for me.

The shifter bushings would be easy if there was room. View the youtube by M.S. That was a later model and they had to drop the transmission down a bit to get room. I bought the special pliers tool, then found it needed a wider backup washer added, otherwise the bushing just splayed out around the base of the tool. Clean the whole area well first or your hands and arms will get real grubby.

funola · #5 11-15-2015, 08:35 AM

I did see the MS videos on a 190D and another model, seems to me those pliers are more trouble than they're worth if they don't work perfectly the first time. Taking the linkages out seems like much less frustration and faster in the end.

I like the self fusing Silicone tape idea on torn boot. I still have a bunch left that I bought from McMaster when I was playing with Nichrome line heaters. How long has the wrap on the BJ held up for you? I assume you leave the torn boot on, grease the BJ, clean and wrap over the torn boot? Got a pic of one you did?

cooljjay · #6 11-15-2015, 02:50 PM

The pliers are a waste....

On the auto's, one bushing that holds the linkage can be installed when the shifter is out for the rebuild. The second one, you will need to undo the arm that is attached to the transmission, there is a nut n bolt that comes out and then it slides off...

The bushings are nylon, not a hard plastic....they can be bent, pushed, deformed and still pop back into the original shape....thus one can use any number of odd objects to push them on...

Worse case, you can make a press with odd bolts, washers n nuts..

The hardest thing to install, are the darn spring clips...

funola · #7 11-18-2015, 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooljjay

The pliers are a waste..........................................
The hardest thing to install, are the darn spring clips...

Agreed.

The bushings arrived and I got them installed. Wow what a difference in how the shifter feels with bushings. They were both missing!

funola · #8 11-18-2015, 06:47 PM

I used a 19 mm 12 point socket, nut bolt washers to press the bushings in with Silicone spray lube. I only used 2 of the 6 bushings I bought since the ones in the interior of the passenger compartment are in good condition and does not need replacement. Only the ones under the car exposed to the elements were destroyed.

funola · #9 11-18-2015, 06:53 PM

funola · #10 11-18-2015, 08:15 PM

I made a special tool for the clip out of a coat hanger which made the job a breeze instead of frustration. I just pounded the end of the coat hanger to flatten it just enough to spread the clip. I tied a string to the clip so I don't lose it if it pops off.

Pic of special tool after clip was installed.

JHZR2 · #11 11-26-2015, 10:16 PM

OT but who is the MB specialist?

funola · #12 11-26-2015, 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

OT but who is the MB specialist?

Willy's auto service in Great Neck NY

funola · #13 12-03-2015, 05:09 PM

Needed work all done! Replaced the torn lower ball joint dust boot with a kit from Energy Suspensions 5.13102R $7.99 from Autozone. The kit is for a 74 Dodge Challenger (p/n thanks to BillGrissom!), has 4 boots but only 2 of them fit the lower ball joint.

Job was a breeze with the right tools.
First, pop the upper ball joint with this tool

Remove caliper, outer tie rod arm to steering knuckle (19 mm bolts x2) or pop the tie-rod outer ball joint, after which you can get the knuckle into this position to get the OTC-8149 into position to pop the lower ball joint. (Note: only this position with ball joint facing front of car fits the OTC-8149, if facing the rear, tool will NOT fit)

Next time I would take the nut off the ball joint instead of loosening it partially before pressing the BJ out with the OTC-8149, because I had a hard time getting the nut off because the ball joint was spinning in it's socket. With the knuckle assembly on the ground, took cracked boot off, cleaned and took off boot retainer spring.

Packed boot with grease and installed. I put a little too much grease and the boot is ballooning a bit. The boot is thick and tough and the extra grease will work itself out.

JHZR2 · #14 12-03-2015, 07:58 PM

So the booth as no bottom clamp? Will water get in?

It's not exactly a serviceable joint once back together.

funola · #15 12-03-2015, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

So the booth as no bottom clamp? Will water get in?

It's not exactly a serviceable joint once back together.

What do you mean "not exactly a serviceable joint once back together."? You service it the same way.

If you look at the 2nd from bottom pic, there is a lip on the BJ that the boot stretches tight over it, the boot is also much taller than the space available for it so it is squished down and the boot cannot slip off. I don't think water will get in. Time will tell. BillGrissom used the same boot on his. Maybe he'll chime in to let us know how long his has been on.