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  #16  
Old 11-16-2015, 01:25 AM
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...like a shield of steel
 
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Other components =>

Two rubber bushings in the middle of the LCA (as well as the inboard mounts)

The two big "ball joints" that fit to the rear of the front wheels - in board on the chassis - at the end of the brake stay

Front anti-roll bar bushings on the bulkhead

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Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #17  
Old 11-16-2015, 01:44 AM
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This thread, just got me to an "oh damn" moment....

I just realized, when I installed the UCA...I didn't have the front wheels on the ground, I kept them lose until I got the ball joint installed...Then I went around and torqued everything while still on the stands....Looks like I will be under the hood tomorrow, loosing everything up and re torquing...

That's what happens when one repair snowballs into a dozen, and you lose your bolts literally
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  #18  
Old 11-16-2015, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cooljjay View Post
This thread, just got me to an "oh damn" moment....

I just realized, when I installed the UCA...I didn't have the front wheels on the ground, I kept them lose until I got the ball joint installed...Then I went around and torqued everything while still on the stands....Looks like I will be under the hood tomorrow, loosing everything up and re torquing...

That's what happens when one repair snowballs into a dozen, and you lose your bolts literally
We've all done it; sometimes it is the stress of doing the repair or sometimes we lose our vantage point while performing the repair. Fortunately these cars are fairly forgiving, just go back and loosen them with the front end supported on jack stands, then lower the car and re-tighten.
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  #19  
Old 11-16-2015, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HuskyMan View Post
We've all done it; sometimes it is the stress of doing the repair or sometimes we lose our vantage point while performing the repair. Fortunately these cars are fairly forgiving, just go back and loosen them with the front end supported on jack stands, then lower the car and re-tighten.
I can promise it was the stress! At that time I wasn't going to do anything on the front end, but then I noticed inner tire wear....then that went to UCA...then torsion bar bushings....

Now its starting to snow...So debating do it now, or after a 300 mile trip...I just couldn't notice I did this two days ago when it was all sunny out
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  #20  
Old 11-16-2015, 05:58 PM
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mmmmmm Diesel...
 
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You should do it now. BTDT!!!
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70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

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  #21  
Old 11-16-2015, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by rrgrassi View Post
You should do it now. BTDT!!!
Just did! Totally funny, was all dark out and a few minutes after I posted...The sun came out! Grabbed the jack stands and ran outside before it got dark again...half n hour later, all is fixed... Getting pretty good at this
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  #22  
Old 11-16-2015, 06:09 PM
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mmmmmm Diesel...
 
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Yeah!!!
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70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
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  #23  
Old 11-16-2015, 07:14 PM
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The inner LCA bushings can be messed up if the arm is forced down and the bolt holding the LCA to the body is tight.

I made a press out of a large 3/4 inch drive socket to install inner LCA bushings. I forgot size of the socket but will look. The bottom of the socket was too deep and wouldn't support the bushing which caused the lip of the bushing to deform. I cut some circles out of plywood and put them in the socket to shim the bushing. It worked like a charm.

Be sure to orient the inner LCA bushings per the FSM. There is an incorrect way and you don't want to do this job again for the fun of it.

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