Caliper kits do not come with new bolts. Originals are reused.

This is not a floating caliper, does not move, therefore with/without pads will not affect it. If the caliper and pads are the only things that changed, and the hub/rotor turns with everything installed except the wheel, the only logical conclusion is that the rim is against the caliper / caliper is wrong.

I am not a Kleenwheels fan, but since it has been in the wheel without interference before it is unlikely that this is your problem, but of course that is not stock so who knows.

Have you tried rotating the wheel with the bolts loose, slowly tightening/rotating to see where the binding occurs in the wheel mounting process?

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Gone to the dark side

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Have you tried putting the old caliper back on? If it works with the old one, then I would be certain its the new one....

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1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold

Waiting to see if you solved the problem..I think all worked well untill the new calipers showing up , so it can be nothing else .

The wheel binds almost immediately when I get the lug bolts started. The wheel also does not fit properly; it is just a bit off now. That also tells me there is something funny with the caliper.

I took the caliper back to Pep Boys and talked with Baker Auto Parts. They agree there is no second parts number for a slightly different caliper and have no idea what can be the problem.

I am stumped. Going to try the old caliper again. No burr on either the new calipers or the vehicle; is a clean mating of the two surfaces.

I agree that it makes no difference with or without pads installed; the caliper does not float and will not move.

All I can derive is that either a) the caliper is slightly different / wrong P/N rebuilt (would seem unlikely, especially both), or b) the caliper was machined, perhaps spot-faced on the mounting surfaces, offsetting toward the wheel enough to cause interference. I have no other guesses.

Truly an odd one, hopefully you'll get it resolved.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Babymog - do not disagree. But what are the odds of both Pep Boys and Baker Auto having calipers which were rebuilt with errors?

I am wondering if I need to get more manly while reinstalling the wheel and really power it on with my hands - past the caliper, wiggle, shake, fidget the wheel - and then possibly it would loosen up. The holes do not even match the hub properly now.

Going to jack up the other side and look too.

tyl:

You might consider asking your vendor to get the alternate Ate caliper for a trial fit. The Ate package is a bit more compact than the Bendix.

Frank - ATE on one side and Bendix on the other?

Adrain

From what I've read you need to have them in pairs...

Have you tried removing your dist shield from the rim to see if it clears then? What happens if you thread the lugs into the hub without a rim? any binding?

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2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily
2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily
1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103
1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold

the calipers appear correct... only conclusion is they are on the car incorrectly.

can you post a pic of them installed on the car? from several angles, front, side, top, back etc...

something is incorrect with the install... look at charlie's pic and compare your install...

I think the scuff marks are just from you setting the tire in place.

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The inside piston was stuck and would not retract even though I used a crowbar to try to push it back in. Could I have put so much pressure on the rotor that it is slanted outward now and hitting the wheel?

Please note that I said "trial fit". If the Ate clears, then replace both sides with Ate.

Have you mounted it upside down and change the geometry to cause binding? The bleeding nipple is always on top. Get an opinion from a professional to take a look. Changing out calipers is a piece of cake on your car.

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Lightly tape a sheet of thin plastic (like the veggie clear bags in produce section of supermarket) to the inside of the wheel where the caliper is. After tightening all the bolts, if you can pull the plastic sheet out, caliper is not pinched to the wheel. If you cannot pull the sheet out without tearing it, it is pinching. How's that for an easy go/ no go test?

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