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  #31  
Old 04-11-2016, 04:13 PM
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I would remove the block drain plug, TODAY... it's likely the coolant is only leaking out the drilled hole, not into the pc... or piston... your best bet is draining the coolant and when time allows investigate further solutions with the damage.

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  #32  
Old 04-11-2016, 04:18 PM
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Well, Assuming he drilled through the wall of the GP bore and breached the cooling jacket there...I was assuming a hole drilled through the GP tip, through the other side of whatever wall is opposite the GP (it would be through the opposite prechamber wall on my 603...)

Drain the radiator and the block. I'm thinking the block plug will be on the passenger side of the engine about halfway back where it is on my 603.
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  #33  
Old 04-11-2016, 04:24 PM
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I notice that no-one has mentioned this so far, but if you have drilled through the glow plug into the prechamber, I would also be concerned about what metal chips have made their way into the engine...
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  #34  
Old 04-11-2016, 06:03 PM
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The OP said it was fuel that was coming out, he did not say it was coolant. I am surprised people are against verifying how far he drilled and what fluid it was that was coming out. It's so easy, just stick a rod smaller diameter than the drill used in there and see how far it goes.
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  #35  
Old 04-11-2016, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
I would love to get this car, as I think I can fix it whatever the problem is. However, I might as well be on the other side of the planet being in CA!
Have it shipped to you. A non-running car is always cheap, so, that plus freight could be the ticket.
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  #36  
Old 04-11-2016, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renaissanceman View Post
If I had done this, here would be my "on a super tight budget, need to get her running with nothing much to lose" attempt:

1.) Thread GP and remove.
2.) Inspect with $8 USB inspection camera
3.) If there is a hole in the head into the coolant passage, drain coolant.
4.) since GP is now removed, the ID of the hole is now significantly larger than the drilled hole diameter.
5.) Look at a drill and tap chart and select a common tap that matches the hole you punched into the coolant jacket.
6.) Hand tap the hole into the jacket.
7.) Degrease the threads, install a set screw with lots of threadlocker (heat resistant type? Coolant on one side of the screw should help keep it intact?)
8.) Let it cure, refill with coolant, pressurize cooling system, inspect with camera for leakage.
9.) if no leaks, button it up and hope for the best!

I'm not a machinist, just an engineer that gave it a little rent in my head last night...so take with a grain of salt.
What about all the bits in the cylinder?
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  #37  
Old 04-11-2016, 07:54 PM
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Depends on how much is steel and how much is aluminum, as well as how much actually made it though the holes in the prechamber into the cylinders. The iron could (mostly) be fished out with a neodymium magnet on a flexible wire through the intake valve. The aluminum is a bit trickier to remove, but unless it is a massive amount, it will burn up or be blown out the exhaust valve pretty quickly once the engine is started.
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  #38  
Old 04-11-2016, 09:10 PM
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I do not know much about the 606 engine ( familiar with 617 and 603 ) but injectors always spray fuel onto the GP ( when hot ) to fire the engine. I really doubt drilling the GP out would hit the injector. It is on top on the GP and not behind it. In addition, it is very hard to drill thru an injector. The fuel inside is miniuscule in any event. It is very likely coolant if the cylinder was indeed poked thru. The pre-chamber may also be in the way. In short, I do not know what happened but the head probably is toasted.
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  #39  
Old 04-11-2016, 11:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ah-kay View Post
I do not know much about the 606 engine ( familiar with 617 and 603 ) but injectors always spray fuel onto the GP ( when hot ) to fire the engine. .........
Sorry, that is factually incorrect as BC used to say. A good injector sprays onto the ball pin in the pre chamber, never onto the glow plug. A bad injector with a bad spray pattern can spray onto the glow plug and erode it till bits of it falls off causing extensive damage.
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  #40  
Old 04-12-2016, 12:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Sorry, that is factually incorrect as BC used to say. A good injector sprays onto the ball pin in the pre chamber, never onto the glow plug. A bad injector with a bad spray pattern can spray onto the glow plug and erode it till bits of it falls off causing extensive damage.
I am wasting my time to reply but I do it anyway for 2 reasons. BC is history. Secondly, I am saying the injector is above the GP relatively, whether it is DIRECTLY above is not relevant in the context of 'drilling thru' scenario.
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W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
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  #41  
Old 04-12-2016, 08:24 AM
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Well thanks to all for the input. You guys that understand the anatomy of the 606 head all nailed it. It is indeed coolant I drilled into. I feel like an idiot thinking it was fuel. But I guess the odor of fuel was already so strong (I had to remove a few fuel lines to gain better access when drilling) that I just convinced myself I was looking at diesel fuel.

I still like renaissanceman's suggestion of trying to plug the hole with a set screw. I think what I will try and do is list it for sale as a part's/project car. If someone comes along that wants to attempt this I will sell it and be done with it. In the meantime while waiting for a buyer I will tinker with it when I have spare time on weekends in the coming months, trying out his suggestion.
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  #42  
Old 04-12-2016, 11:47 AM
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Sorry about your misfortune, those OM606 glow plugs certainly have a (well-earned) bad reputation.

Last time I did mine in 2012 I put on a generous amount of Lubro Moly anti-seize, but every time I see these threads it makes me want to go out and perpetually hit them with PB Blaster every weekend until the day comes I need to do them again.
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  #43  
Old 04-12-2016, 12:05 PM
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This prechamber diagram is from a 190D and may resemble your 606 prechamber. Per Kartek, you would have had to drill through the glow plug then through the opposite side of the pre chamber into the aluminum head casting for coolant to leak into the pre chamber. In that case, the set screw is not going to help....it will hydro lock.

Can you measure how deep you actually drilled? It would be useful information for others attempting the same job in the future. You shouldn't have drilled more than 1/2" before tapping ( where most of the meat on the glow plug was). The glow plug gets smaller in diameter the further in you go. What were you thinking?
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  #44  
Old 04-12-2016, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
This prechamber diagram is from a 190D and may resemble your 606 prechamber. Per Kartek, you would have had to drill through the glow plug then through the opposite side of the pre chamber into the aluminum head casting for coolant to leak into the pre chamber. In that case, the set screw is not going to help....it will hydro lock.
Two cases I see:

1.) he drilled all the way through the GP, opposite side of the prechamber and through the AL wall of the head into the coolant jacket. A set screw would not cause hydrolock -- it would plug the hole on the opposite side of the prechamber.

2.) The drilled hole was off axis enough to start cutting into the head before reaching the tip of the GP, and cut into the water jacket. If this is the case, there should be little or no coolant in the prechamber or cylinder. This may be able to be patched up too. I'm hoping Mike will post photos from the borescope so we can see/help.

Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
...What were you thinking?
Probably that he was tired and frustrated and thought hewas doing what he should do. Don't beat him up more than he already is doing to himself.
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Garage:

2017 Chevy Colorado Diesel (nanny state emissions)
2005 Volvo S40 T5 AWD, 77k
1987 Mercedes-Benz 300D turbodiesel, 4 sp auto, 156k - 28.7 mpg
1996 Tracker 4x4, 2 door, 16v, 3 sp auto. 113k - 28.6 mpg

WARNING: this post may contain dangerous free thinking.
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  #45  
Old 04-12-2016, 12:29 PM
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Scenario #2 above may be a real possibility.

I wish someone here could produce the same type of cross sectional diagram of the 606. I am sure it is similar to above. I have searched and searched but can find one. I would like to see exactly what the anatomy is. As you all know, the GP's in the 606 are significantly longer than other engines.

Yes, wasn't thinking correctly, nor did I plan proper. I should have held drill bit next to an intact GP and taped the bit at which point to stop.

Tired and Beyond Frustrated is more like it.

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