OM 606 Drilled too deep trying to extract a stuck Glow Plug - Page 18 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

spock505 · #**256** 10-08-2016, 03:34 AM

Ditto Murkybenz, starter will not have enough grunt (or momentum) to bend anything. it depends on whether you can face pulling it all apart again sourcing a new head, gasket, bolts and so on.

mikemass1221 · #**257** 10-08-2016, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Murkybenz

Turn the key and thud, so it was already full of water and just turned on the starter motor as far as it could.
There cannot possibly be any rod damage at all so just put another head on it and give it an oil change and it will be good to go.

This is correct. It did not hydrolock while running. Filled up with water before the 3rd time starting it. There was no violent crashing occurring in there. As far as a new head. Even earlier in this thread it was mentioned like "Just replace the head". It's not like I can walk into a Walmart and buy one. I don't know where you guys feel it's so easy to get one, but I have been checking the junk yard national database since April. Nothing. And I am not paying an eBay refurb price for more than the car's worth.

If someone can get one and wants to take on the project, be my guest. The car is in Monmouth county, NJ. At this point I am just selling it whole as a project or parts car for Best Offer.

funola · #**258** 10-11-2016, 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikemass1221

Well for those that remember this fiasco. I finally got around to plugging up that hole. I followed a very similar method that funola posted earlier (thanks again for that). I was very confident this was going to work. And it almost did.

After buttoning everything back up (Everything except the intake manifold), I cranked away. And cranked and cranked. (remember I had a lot of fuel lines disconnected to work on the hole) Finally she fired up. Lots of smoke as expected. I let it run reving it occasionally. Let it run for about 3-4 minutes. "Low Coolant" came on the dash. Which was expected because I knew I lost a good amount when I drilled into the coolant passage. So I shut her down.

After picking up a jug of MB coolant and cutting it with distilled water I filled up the expansion tank. It took about 1/4 - 1/3 of a gallon, which sounded about right based on what I thought I lost. I started her up again. This time, it really started great. I mean right up! Was running fairly smooth too considering the IM was still off. After letting it run a few minutes I shut it down once more. Cleaned up some tools, put some things away, etc. Figured tomorrow I would throw the IM back on a be done with it. AND THEN THINGS WENT SOUTH..

I went to start it up one last time because I was going to move it. Turn the key and..... THUD. Engine sounded like it wanted to crank but just made one heavy click and wouldn't turn. Low and behold when I looked at the 2 intake ports that are above the damaged hole they were filled with coolant. I guess the inner plug didn't hold after all.

Is what I am describing a Hydro-Locked Engine?

Sorry to hear it didn't work. I didn't have any confidence it'd work if the taper/ seal part of the glow plug/head was partially drilled through, and that is probably what happened. Hope it was fun and a good learning experience trying to patch it. Curious the method you used?

mikemass1221 · #**259** 10-11-2016, 09:33 AM

Nah. It's all good. I got some good experience working with taps. Instead of using a rubber plug on the small hole I packed it with the new JB Weld product call "extreme Heat" It's good up to 2500 deg F. I still taped and plugged it with a set screw. I would have liked to get a few more threads tapped however, but I had to use a 12" long tap to get in there and I could only find long starter taps. Couldn't get a bottoming tap in that length.

That said, I was able to get a few good turns on the set screw. It was nice and snug in there. Recall that hole was drilled partially into the GP body and partially into the aluminum head. So there's a good chance that my tap cut deeper into the soft aluminum as opposed to the steel GP. My guess is that's where it ultimately leaked through.

After it hydolocked, I pulled out the outer 14 - 1.5mm set screw to look inside. The inner set screw was still in place. So I assume the coolant seeped past the JB Weld and the threads and found it way into the intake.

Would have been a good idea to pressure test the coolant system before starting.

Oddly enough I started engine 2 x's while the coolant level was low with no issues. It wasn't until after I filled it up and tried to start the 3rd time that it was hydro'd.

moon161 · #**260** 10-11-2016, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikemass1221

but I had to use a 12" long tap to get in there and I could only find long starter taps. Couldn't get a bottoming tap in that length.

I heard you could just grind off as much as you needed to make a starter tap into a bottoming tap.

jake12tech · #**261** 10-11-2016, 10:44 AM

Would you sell it whole for $800? How bad is the rust?

mikemass1221 · #**262** 10-11-2016, 10:49 AM

I'm not going to turn this open forum into an online auction. It's listed on Craigslist in Central Jersey along with my phone number. Will be happy to answer questions and hear offers in that manner.

jake12tech · #**263** 10-11-2016, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikemass1221

I'm not going to turn this open forum into an online auction. It's listed on Craigslist in Central Jersey along with my phone number. Will be happy to answer questions and hear offers in that manner.

We will be in touch today. I'm interested. I have a cylinder head for it.

farmerpete · #**264** 02-19-2017, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikemass1221

I'm not going to turn this open forum into an online auction. It's listed on Craigslist in Central Jersey along with my phone number. Will be happy to answer questions and hear offers in that manner.

Mate I truly feel your pain..in the depths of glowplug parts removal myself