OM 606 Drilled too deep trying to extract a stuck Glow Plug - Page 11 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

funola · #1 04-18-2016, 04:09 PM

Mike,

Does my drawing below depict what's happened to your cyl. head?

I took your drawing, flipped it so the glow plug is in the same orientation as the cutaway drawing with both on the computer screen, taped a piece of clear cellophane on top of your drawing and drew on it with colored markers.

Orange is the space you have drilled
Green is coolant passages
Purple is pre chamber and injector
Yellow circles are coolant passage areas that have been breached.

mikemass1221 · #2 04-18-2016, 04:31 PM

Here, I made a mirror image and tilted it so it somewhat matches the angle in the cross section diagram. Now you can see I drilled low. But you can see this even more clear in the real photo of the hole(s).

funola · #3 04-18-2016, 09:01 PM

Took your tilted mirror image and tried again. Same color scheme except I added brown (cross hatched) where the 13/64 drill went through part of the glow plug seat/seal on the head. That is a concern since 1/2 of the seat is missing. There is only one coolant breach (yellow circle).

mikemass1221 · #4 04-18-2016, 04:25 PM

Yes and no. Your overlay is pretty accurate. But the angle I depicted when I drew that pic (right side up), was from the perspective if you were looking from the back of the engine bay to the front.

So I drilled below and to the right of the GP. Not above it. I did not breach a coolant passage above the GP. The passage is clearly below it.

Also what the cross section photo doesn't show is what is to the left and right. Onyl above and below. But regardless of what the cross section shows, we know based on my pics that I opened up a passage in the bottom right of my hole.

mikemass1221 · #5 04-19-2016, 03:36 PM

A little off topic but you guys will know where I am going with this question:

Will the cylinder head of a 1995 E300, (which I believe is still a 606 engine), fit on my 606 1999 E300?

ROLLGUY · #6 04-19-2016, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikemass1221

A little off topic but you guys will know where I am going with this question:

Will the cylinder head of a 1995 E300, (which I believe is still a 606 engine), fit on my 606 1999 E300?

I can't imagine there being any difference, other than the cam profile may not be the same. You could use the cams from the turbo head, but would also have to move over the cam followers (buckets, lifters- whatever you want to call them) with the cam in their same position.

mikemass1221 · #7 04-21-2016, 09:51 AM

Ok guys. This is my plan. While I am keeping my eye out for a used head I am planning on plugging up the hole so I can at least get back to driving this on 5 Glow Plugs. I plan to use a combo of RollGuy's "pack with JB Weld and Plug" from Post # 132 (shown here) and funola's "Lead Plug and Hex bolt" method from Posts # 114 (shown here) & 150 (shown here)

1. What I will first do is clean everything real good with brake clean and dry.
Then tap the large 1/2" to accept a hex bolt. This needs to be a very short bolt and hardened Steel, correct? Not sure where to find something so short. Cut one down?

2. Next I will pack entire opening with J-B Weld HighHeat Epoxy Putty making sure to really push the putty into the 13/64 hole and thoroughly pack the entire area. I will pack enough putty to come into the newly tapped threads I made in step one.

3. While putty is still malleable I will thread in 1/2" hex bolt to really 'push' the putty in deeper, filling every possible crevice.

Let sit 24-48 hours so JB hardens, change oil, flush coolant, button everything up, say a prayer and turn the key.

Concerns I would like some input on:

The lead instead of the JB Weld sounds like a great idea, but I have never melted lead. I'm not sure how I would make an exact mold to fit my exact drill pattern. Will it be cool enough to touch, yet still soft enough to 'mold' into the areas I need to pack? The JB stick will be pliable and soft enough to work with that I think I can fill in the area better.

Will JB Weld harden and cure properly if I am sealing it off while still soft?

The Hex bolt is just a final 'plug' to lock everything in there real tight. I know funola said no pipe thread but the only thing I can envision is this:

Can you steer me in the right direction as to what exactly I should use for this?

Anyway. Sound like a plan?

Mölyapina · #8 04-21-2016, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikemass1221

A little off topic but you guys will know where I am going with this question:

Will the cylinder head of a 1995 E300, (which I believe is still a 606 engine), fit on my 606 1999 E300?

I looked into this while reading your thread, and I think that I read that the valves have thicker diameters on the turbo heads.

EDIT: Here's a link on it:

http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=3630

funola · #9 04-21-2016, 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikemass1221

.............
The lead instead of the JB Weld sounds like a great idea, but I have never melted lead. I'm not sure how I would make an exact mold to fit my exact drill pattern. Will it be cool enough to touch, yet still soft enough to 'mold' into the areas I need to pack? The JB stick will be pliable and soft enough to work with that I think I can fill in the area better. .....

You can make a mold for both holes out of wood and the 2 drill bits you used. See this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ep0z710Zl5k

You can shape the lead plugs with a file to fit the hole snugly before inserting. To test the hammering to expand the lead plug, make some extras. Drill a 1/2" hole into a block of aluminum, insert lead plug and use a 1/4" diameter punch to hammer it in all around to expand it in. Tap a screw into the lead plug and try to pull it out of the aluminum block to test.

funola · #10 04-21-2016, 12:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikemass1221

.....
The Hex bolt is just a final 'plug' to lock everything in there real tight. I know funola said no pipe thread but the only thing I can envision is this:

Can you steer me in the right direction as to what exactly I should use for this?

.............

Yes, purpose of the bolt is to exert force on the lead plug and lock it in place and allow it to be adjustable.

The reason for no pipe thread is to preclude the possibility of cracking the aluminum head.

renaissanceman · #11 04-21-2016, 02:25 PM

I'm still not sure trusting carbon and Epoxy (or lead) to seal out combustion gasses and coolant is a good idea. You'd be better served by removing the fragments, installing a plug/set screw with lots of red loctite to seal combustion gasses, and then another set screw with blue loctite to seal coolant. Assuming that there is not a breached oil and coolant gallery.

Mölyapina · #12 04-21-2016, 10:21 AM

I take it back, I think I'm wrong about the valves.

mikemass1221 · #13 04-21-2016, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mölyapina

I take it back, I think I'm wrong about the valves.

Haha. All good. Thanks for trying to find info. Visually the top of the 1995 606 looks different than the later model 606's. Half the intake manifold goes over the valve cover in the early versions. So I was wondering if the actual head is different. It's fine for now. I am more concerned right now with the patch job. But for future reference I just wanted to know if I can ONLY look for heads coming off the 1996-1999 W210's

ROLLGUY · #14 04-21-2016, 11:19 AM

The intake manifold is different on the N/A because of the absence of the turbo and intercooler piping, but I believe the head is the same. Also, 1996-7 are N/A, 1998-9 are turbo (North America).

mikemass1221 · #15 04-21-2016, 11:26 AM

TY RollGuy. Pretty much what I thought. Appreciate the confirmation.