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  #1  
Old 04-15-2016, 12:07 AM
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jay bob also said in the same post

"The OM642 is worse - the GPs on that engine are nearly a foot long...same reason. No pre chamber on a CDI but it still has to get the business end where the action is."

Really? glow plug a foot long or is he exaggerating?

Edit: It's less than 6" long. He's exaggerating.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine-TRIDON-Glow-Plug-TGP-For-Chrysler-300C-LE-MY06-3-0L-OM642-/151121276689?hash=item232f87af11:g:WhkAAOxy4XNSMrWr&vxp=mtr

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  #2  
Old 04-15-2016, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
jay bob also said in the same post

"The OM642 is worse - the GPs on that engine are nearly a foot long...same reason. No pre chamber on a CDI but it still has to get the business end where the action is."

Really? glow plug a foot long or is he exaggerating?

Edit: It's less than 6" long. He's exaggerating.

New Genuine Tridon Glow Plug TGP for Chrysler 300C Le MY06 3 0L OM642 | eBay

Tough crowd!

Those plugs sure looked huge when I got the dead ones back from the dealer ...much larger than the 61x/603/602 plugs!
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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  #3  
Old 04-15-2016, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay_bob View Post
Tough crowd!

Those plugs sure looked huge when I got the dead ones back from the dealer ...much larger than the 61x/603/602 plugs!
Not really. Just want accurate information and not another myth started that CDI injectors are nearly a foot long.

Edit: You got the old injectors back from the dealer. Did you measure them with a ruler? How did 6" become "nearly a foot long"?

Speaking of CDI glow plugs, which are longer and smaller in diameter (148.5 mm, 5.8" long M8 x 1 threads) vs 606 injectors (116 mm, 4.6" long M12 x 1.25 threads), I'd imagine carbon packing would make the CDI glow plugs much more prone to breakage and much more difficult to extract a broken one. Is that true in real life?
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Last edited by funola; 04-18-2016 at 12:11 PM.
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  #4  
Old 04-15-2016, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Not really. Just want accurate information and not another myth started that CDI injectors are nearly a foot long.

Speaking of CDI glow plugs, which are longer and smaller in diameter (148.5 mm, 5.8" long M8 x 1 threads) vs 606 injectors (116 mm, 4.6" long M12 x 1.25 threads), I'd imagine carbon packing would make the CDI glow plugs much more prone to breakage and much more difficult to extract a broken one. Is that true in real life?
That is why I had the dealer change the plugs on my 642.
Yes it was spendy (we all debated it on this thread)...
OM642 glow plug replacement
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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  #5  
Old 04-17-2016, 05:28 AM
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This thread has been strangely silent as of late. ..
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  #6  
Old 04-15-2016, 11:56 AM
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Refurbished head? I'd say get a used head and then have a competent machine shop evaluate and give you a quote for a valve job.

Plug the hole: I love the idea of the lead plug, and I would probably leave the remains of the glow plug exactly where they are.
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'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
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  #7  
Old 04-15-2016, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxbumpo View Post
Refurbished head? I'd say get a used head and then have a competent machine shop evaluate and give you a quote for a valve job.

Plug the hole: I love the idea of the lead plug, and I would probably leave the remains of the glow plug exactly where they are.
Thanks for liking my idea!

Copied here from post #114

"I am thinking something like this:

Tap the 1/2" hole for a hex bolt (where the glow plug thread was, do not use pipe thread!) Make a plug out of lead with a pointy end matching the 1/2 drill point of the existing hole and long enough to cover the big breach area (melt some fishing lures and make a mold). Hammer the lead plug into the hole with a punch and hammer to expand it so it fills any space between the lead plug and the hole, then tighten the bolt and force the lead plug further in. I think lead melts at around 600F and it may work. You can always tighten it more to exert more pressure."

I would add here before putting the lead plug in, use a self tapping screw sized to fit the 13/64 hole and drive in in then grind the head off with a Dremel. This adds another layer of protection to keep coolant out of the pre chamber. Then put the lead plug in, hammer it to expand and fill the nooks and cranny then put the bolt in to press it in further to keep it in place. The lead plug seals the big gaping hole as well as provide a force on the remnant of the glow plug making the taper seal do its job.
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83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #8  
Old 04-15-2016, 06:29 PM
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the only way I would feel safe leaving the GP tip in there is if the part that is remaining in your head has a wider section than the exposed tip.

can you scavenge a used one and carefully remove the outer shiny housing?

Then measure the diameters of the cross sections in your head.
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  #9  
Old 04-17-2016, 12:51 PM
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Done anything more to the car mikemass? After some thought about the idea of dye water test, I think it may not be worth doing since there are easier tests.

Reasons are:

1. Radiator and block must be drained first.
2. Have to flush and refill system afterwards.

It's easier to do a leak down test I mentioned earlier:
Make a blow gun tip to fit tightly in the 13/64" hole and blow compressed air in while listening at the valve cover oil fill hole (inlet valve must be open) and also look for bubbles in the expansion tank (top it up if empty). If you can hear air escaping or see bubbles in the expansion tank, the hole has breached the pre combustion chamber and the coolant passage in the head. Please report what you find.

The 13/64 hole if the more challenging hole to plug since it involves coolant and combustion gas passages if both were breached. Depending on what you find and where you drilled with the 13/64 bit, it may or may not be possible to plug.

You need to make a more careful probing of the 13/64 hole to determine exactly where you have drilled through and how much of the glow plug body is left (before the glowing portion). Make a drawing with dimensions.

Edit: By cleaning the hole well with brake clean and blow dry with compressed air and looking with a mirror, you may be able to see the different material of the aluminum head and glow plug body and thus where you have drilled. Take some pics also.
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83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #10  
Old 04-17-2016, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Edit: By cleaning the hole well with brake clean and blow dry with compressed air and looking with a mirror, you may be able to see the different material of the aluminum head and glow plug body and thus where you have drilled. Take some pics also.
In one of the photos it is very clear that the remaining glow plug shaft (how much of it's length, we can't absolutely know) is visible. It is clear where the steel of the GP is in relation to the surrounding aluminum of the head.
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  #11  
Old 04-18-2016, 08:54 AM
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Guys. Sorry I went radio silent for a while. I came down with a bad stomach bug Friday that knocked the heck out of me. So my weekend was shot. I didn't get a chance to touch the car. Project on hold for now. But I need to re read some of the recent info posted here and decide the course of action to go.

I was under the impression that getting a used head out of a wrecked vehicle at a junk yard was going to run in the upper hundreds to thousands. You guys are talking about a sub $100 head out there? I will look into this option in the meantime too.
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  #12  
Old 04-18-2016, 09:23 AM
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LKQ: standard pricing regardless of marque. Check the price lists online, look for yards close to you. Here in Chucktown, ~$65 is the price for an aluminum head with dual camshafts. There are two "tricks": (1) do they have a '98/'99 E300 with a good head and (2) do you have the time / tools to remove it?
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M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #13  
Old 04-18-2016, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxbumpo View Post
There are two "tricks": (1) do they have a '98/'99 E300 with a good head and (2) do you have the time / tools to remove it?
I agree....I've only ever seen one non-617 MB diesel here over the last 3 years and that was a 603. There is quite a bit of variation between areas - I think they are more plentiful on the east coast. Definitely worth a try, especially if you've got patience.
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  #14  
Old 04-18-2016, 11:02 AM
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Maybe patch up this head to get the car running again, and then patiently watch/wait for a used head to come along?
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/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #15  
Old 04-18-2016, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxbumpo View Post
Maybe patch up this head to get the car running again, and then patiently watch/wait for a used head to come along?
X2. Agreed, that is a good course of action.
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