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  #151  
Old 04-15-2016, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Not really. Just want accurate information and not another myth started that CDI injectors are nearly a foot long.

Speaking of CDI glow plugs, which are longer and smaller in diameter (148.5 mm, 5.8" long M8 x 1 threads) vs 606 injectors (116 mm, 4.6" long M12 x 1.25 threads), I'd imagine carbon packing would make the CDI glow plugs much more prone to breakage and much more difficult to extract a broken one. Is that true in real life?
That is why I had the dealer change the plugs on my 642.
Yes it was spendy (we all debated it on this thread)...
OM642 glow plug replacement

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2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
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both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

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1987 300TD sold to vstech
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  #152  
Old 04-15-2016, 06:29 PM
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the only way I would feel safe leaving the GP tip in there is if the part that is remaining in your head has a wider section than the exposed tip.

can you scavenge a used one and carefully remove the outer shiny housing?

Then measure the diameters of the cross sections in your head.
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  #153  
Old 04-17-2016, 05:28 AM
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This thread has been strangely silent as of late. ..
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  #154  
Old 04-17-2016, 12:51 PM
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Done anything more to the car mikemass? After some thought about the idea of dye water test, I think it may not be worth doing since there are easier tests.

Reasons are:

1. Radiator and block must be drained first.
2. Have to flush and refill system afterwards.

It's easier to do a leak down test I mentioned earlier:
Make a blow gun tip to fit tightly in the 13/64" hole and blow compressed air in while listening at the valve cover oil fill hole (inlet valve must be open) and also look for bubbles in the expansion tank (top it up if empty). If you can hear air escaping or see bubbles in the expansion tank, the hole has breached the pre combustion chamber and the coolant passage in the head. Please report what you find.

The 13/64 hole if the more challenging hole to plug since it involves coolant and combustion gas passages if both were breached. Depending on what you find and where you drilled with the 13/64 bit, it may or may not be possible to plug.

You need to make a more careful probing of the 13/64 hole to determine exactly where you have drilled through and how much of the glow plug body is left (before the glowing portion). Make a drawing with dimensions.

Edit: By cleaning the hole well with brake clean and blow dry with compressed air and looking with a mirror, you may be able to see the different material of the aluminum head and glow plug body and thus where you have drilled. Take some pics also.
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  #155  
Old 04-17-2016, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Edit: By cleaning the hole well with brake clean and blow dry with compressed air and looking with a mirror, you may be able to see the different material of the aluminum head and glow plug body and thus where you have drilled. Take some pics also.
In one of the photos it is very clear that the remaining glow plug shaft (how much of it's length, we can't absolutely know) is visible. It is clear where the steel of the GP is in relation to the surrounding aluminum of the head.
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  #156  
Old 04-17-2016, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
So this from jay bob from post #48 is not true?

"On the 606 the dual overhead cams and 4 valves per cylinder make the top of the combustion chamber symmetrical. The pre chamber is dead center and the injectors point straight down with respect to the centerline of the piston."

The drawing clearly shows the injector is angled.
Nope, this is correct as described, not sure what that schematic is but not a OM606.

Mine has just been re-assembled along with pre-chambers, might have the odd pic if needed.
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  #157  
Old 04-17-2016, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renaissanceman View Post
This thread has been strangely silent as of late. ..
That's only because everyone stopped saying the same things over and over. I think it's time to leave the poor guy alone until he makes some progress and reports back.

-Rog
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  #158  
Old 04-17-2016, 05:36 PM
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Not sure what you have said there RG, but agree it sure does look like an OM606.

This is the best picture/s I could find, looking down testing glow plugs before re-fitting injectors.

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1996 Mercedes S124 E300TD - 129k - rolling restoration project -

1998 Mercedes W210 300TD - 118k (assimilated into above vehicle)
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  #159  
Old 04-18-2016, 08:54 AM
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Guys. Sorry I went radio silent for a while. I came down with a bad stomach bug Friday that knocked the heck out of me. So my weekend was shot. I didn't get a chance to touch the car. Project on hold for now. But I need to re read some of the recent info posted here and decide the course of action to go.

I was under the impression that getting a used head out of a wrecked vehicle at a junk yard was going to run in the upper hundreds to thousands. You guys are talking about a sub $100 head out there? I will look into this option in the meantime too.
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  #160  
Old 04-18-2016, 09:23 AM
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LKQ: standard pricing regardless of marque. Check the price lists online, look for yards close to you. Here in Chucktown, ~$65 is the price for an aluminum head with dual camshafts. There are two "tricks": (1) do they have a '98/'99 E300 with a good head and (2) do you have the time / tools to remove it?
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  #161  
Old 04-18-2016, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxbumpo View Post
There are two "tricks": (1) do they have a '98/'99 E300 with a good head and (2) do you have the time / tools to remove it?
I agree....I've only ever seen one non-617 MB diesel here over the last 3 years and that was a 603. There is quite a bit of variation between areas - I think they are more plentiful on the east coast. Definitely worth a try, especially if you've got patience.
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  #162  
Old 04-18-2016, 11:02 AM
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Maybe patch up this head to get the car running again, and then patiently watch/wait for a used head to come along?
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M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #163  
Old 04-18-2016, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxbumpo View Post
Maybe patch up this head to get the car running again, and then patiently watch/wait for a used head to come along?
X2. Agreed, that is a good course of action.
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  #164  
Old 04-18-2016, 04:09 PM
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Mike,

Does my drawing below depict what's happened to your cyl. head?

I took your drawing, flipped it so the glow plug is in the same orientation as the cutaway drawing with both on the computer screen, taped a piece of clear cellophane on top of your drawing and drew on it with colored markers.

Orange is the space you have drilled
Green is coolant passages
Purple is pre chamber and injector
Yellow circles are coolant passage areas that have been breached.

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  #165  
Old 04-18-2016, 04:25 PM
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Yes and no. Your overlay is pretty accurate. But the angle I depicted when I drew that pic (right side up), was from the perspective if you were looking from the back of the engine bay to the front.

So I drilled below and to the right of the GP. Not above it. I did not breach a coolant passage above the GP. The passage is clearly below it.

Also what the cross section photo doesn't show is what is to the left and right. Onyl above and below. But regardless of what the cross section shows, we know based on my pics that I opened up a passage in the bottom right of my hole.

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