Can someone point me to a step-by-step or a how to for removing and replacing the Garrett T3 turbo on a 83 300D? I may be removing mine soon.

Also if someone can give me the names of some good rebuilders and average cost, I would GREATLY appreciate it.

THanks

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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter)

Bell Turbo -philomath-corvallis OR

Ron's turbo shop - somewhere, utah?

I prefer pulling the entire manifold assembly rather than dealing with rusted, awkwardly angled bolts and then re-installing them to get the turbo off.

Its quite accessible with common tools. the hardest parts are dealing with seized bolts on the downtube, one or two tough-to-reach bolts on the manifolds, and the support on the engine mount can be challenging with the AC hoses in the way.

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remove ancillary items in your way

remove oil feed to turbo pipe (connection on the back of the head)

remove or disconnect drain pipe

remove lower support to engine mount

remove drain pipe from air filter

remove downpipe

start loosening manifold nuts

something happens with trans dipstick - just be mindful of bending the base support plate on it. it is fragile and a PITA to reseal if it gets distorted. May be best just to remove this item completely and replace the oring on it.

make sure all AC hoses are loosened from mounts which will affect the removal of the manifold assy.

take all the nuts off the mani assy. then swear a bunch when they dont come off easy.

Swear some more at me when you realize I forgot a bunch of stuff - then figure it out.

post epitaphs and corrections in sly, condescending manner.

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I've had mine off a number of times but in Mutt The Race Truck I've made R&R as easy as possible so I really can't help much with one in a stock chassis. I've always just thought my way thru it. Seems like the first time I had to heat the manifold nuts up to get them loose - they ARE tricky but I think I got them with a regular end wrench and a ton of patience.

My rebuilder was Tim's Turbos in Falls Church, VA. Good guy and very helpful. If you Google for him he has a website. If you have a local guy that's handy but if you have to ship it anyway the distance doesn't matter much.

Dan

I removed in my 1984 300D, but only for access to the K-frame for weld repairs. The exhaust bolts came apart fairly easily (spray penetrating oil the day before). I recall an underside bracket that you must undo blind. The air cleaner oil drain bolts to it, though mine cracked off long ago.

Be sure you have gaskets on hand. The square exhaust gasket is a standard size (T5?). I bought stainless on ebay. The intake connector is an aluminum spool that takes 2 large O-rings. For sure change the O-ring on the oil drain tube. It is a contortionist trick to get that tube off with the turbo in place if it later leaks. I used O-rings from my Harbor Freight kits. I use better Viton or HBNR when I can, otherwise Nitrile (Buna N).

Some here have rebuilt the turbos themselves. You can find kits w/ ball bearings and seals ($100?). I haven't tried, but might. I have a spare turbo from my failed 1985 engine when I get time. Seems it might have sent a ball bearing or two thru the engine, based on the internal damage w/ round depressions in the #1 piston.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

I use a local rebuilder:

http://cheetahturbo.com/

Some have had success with Gpop:

http://gpopshop.com

I think DIY for this is a waste of time and money. If it's more than seals, you will be scrambling to find correct parts. You wont be able to balance the assembly. And if the capsule or case needs machine work, you're back to finding a rebuilder. You will also need a 16" snap ring pliers, something you wont find at Home Depot.

I just rebuilt mine and it was very easy. There are no "rubber" seals internally only a paper type gasket that connects the compressor housing to the main unit which is easier to install after you re-install the main turbo. I purchased a kit that had all the gaskets and a balanced impeller. Cleaning is the messy part and you must use caution when disassembling the unit if there is rust. I used 50/50 acetone and ATF fluid on everything.
The most difficult nut to remove was on the bottom of the manifold toward the firewall. The compressor housing is the unit on the right, I left the nuts loose and mounted the turbo to the manifold without the compressor and turned the unit until the oil line mated up correctly the tightened the nuts slightly, removed the turbo and tightened everything carefully, installed back on engine the attached compressor housing a short metal connecting thingy. There are two rubber O rings on connecting thingy (goes from compressor housing to manifold. The bolts that hold housing to the main unit are finicky, by that I mean you need to start two of them before you can install the housing completely. If I can do it anyone can.

I forgot to mention I've got about 250 miles on the rebuild with no problems and a mean turbo whine.

I had mine rebuilt by my mechanic when he did the engine change out for me. The turbo kit cost $33.00 and change shipped and has every thing you need to re-new the compressor except for the "fan wheels". It was dirty, he cleaned it up, installed the new rings, seals and bushing bearings and all the "o" rings. It reacts very fast to throttle, quits at 11 psi and is very quiet. I suspect that the life of these turbos can be greatly extended by this maintenance. Once the turbine wheels bounce of the side of the casting, you need a complete rebuild. I am going to have another kit installed so I have a spare ready to go. Turbo Charger Repair Rebuild Kit for Garrett T3T4 T3 T4 T04E T04B T3 T4 | eBay

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Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

Where did you find a ball-bearing kit? I've been searching for a good while and haven't found anywhere that's selling just the bearing without a rebuilt turbo wrapped around it.

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RIP:
2011 E350 BlueTEC, Schwartz 81k (totaled by uninsured drunk driver)
1964 Unimog 404.1 (wrongfully towed by the city)
1994 E320, Brilliantsilber 208k (transmission shuffled off after sudden catastrophic fluid loss)
1982 300D, Silberblau under a blue repaint 256k (sold for parts)
1995 E320 Polarweiss, 131k (sold for parts)
1995 E300D Polarweiss, 287k (totaled by drunk driver)

On my '85 I don't remember any ball bearings.

I didn't think any of the turbos (either KKK or Air Research) had ball bearings. I remember them both having fluid bearings.

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Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat

I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]

There should have been a rubber square cross sectioned O-ring between the Bearing Housing and the Aluminum Plate that bolts to the bearing Housing.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

They do have fluid bearings. I thought the guy was talking about replacement ball bearing cartridges, which I haven't been able to find for a Garrett T3.

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RIP:
2011 E350 BlueTEC, Schwartz 81k (totaled by uninsured drunk driver)
1964 Unimog 404.1 (wrongfully towed by the city)
1994 E320, Brilliantsilber 208k (transmission shuffled off after sudden catastrophic fluid loss)
1982 300D, Silberblau under a blue repaint 256k (sold for parts)
1995 E320 Polarweiss, 131k (sold for parts)
1995 E300D Polarweiss, 287k (totaled by drunk driver)

I didn't forget the O-ring.