I've decided to replace much of my brake system. My front calipers are so completely corroded (everything has gone to crust and I can't even get the pads out yet) that I've determined I'm not even going to try and rebuild/reseal them myself. Instead opting for rebuilts - maybe Napa or somewhere I can visual inspect.

1. I currently have the original ATEs - should I stick with ATE or is there any downside to getting Bendix if I can find a better (and local) source for those? Are rotors/pads for Bendix/ATE interchangeable?

2. There is a wild price differential between ATE and Febi brake hoses - is there any concern around the much cheaper Febi? It's not like 20 bucks is going to be a big factor if I'm getting objectively better parts, but if they are really the same seems like I could shave off a few bucks.

3. The various brake pad brands and composition are a bit overwhelming. I'm looking at the Textar ones from Pelican. Acceptable? Any reason to really shop around or widen my search?

4. If I'm getting semi-loaded calipers, new hoses, new rotors, new pads - is there any other hardware(fasteners) that I'll need to install those components? In the FSM they mention single use bolts in attaching the hub/rotors in front (maybe in rear too) - do I need to source those and what will I need to order if so? Any other hardware to replace re: the hoses? I'm assuming semi-loaded calipers will come with the bolts to install them (as well as the pins/clips, bleeder screws). Is this correct?

Sorry for so many questions, but I just want to be prepared when I start this job to minimize downtime. I'm doing front brakes first.

Year and model?

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Mike Mass
Freehold, NJ

1999 E300 TD 178,000 miles
2007 E320 Bluetec - Sold

1998 E300 TD - R.I.P.

If you have ATEs already, I would stick with them... I think the pads for the ATEs are a bunch cheaper. EDIT TAKE IT BACK -- the prices fluctuate depending on the manufacturer. Sometimes ATE is pricier, sometimes Bendix is.

EDIT: mikemass has a good question -- I'm assuming that you are talking about the 1982 300D listed in your profile?

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"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."

Yes - sorry, the 82 300D.

Price aside - are bendix and ATE equal in performance and quality?

I want to put my car in my signature, but I can't figure out where to edit/create my signature at the bottom of each post? I should know how to do this...

EDIT - just figured it out

The bendix calipers here in Canada are usually more expensive than ate. Yet either brand is fine. Maybe someone can think of some advantage of one over the other but I cannot.

Watch out for the new aftermarket caliper castings that there are issues with as to fit. Too bad they did not get it right. Although you can grind out the obstructing part of the castings apparently.

i wouldn't trust febi with any safety critical parts, that includes brake hoses.
textar pads are fine, they will generate a lot of dust.
semi-loaded means it comes with everything except the pads.
if you are replacing the rotors in teh front you're going to need the tools to replace the wheel bearing, so grease and a dial indicator, rears just go on and off real easy.
the bolts your'e talking about just come preloaded with some threadlocker, you can reuse the ones you have just make sure to put some fresh on there

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1981 NA 300D 310k miles

I replaced mine without dial indicator...lots of diy on youtube how to do it
properly..but if uncertain..use dial ind...

please.... if older than 10yrs ...replace rubber brake hoses

cheers

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w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered

i'm definitely replacing the brake hoses. i'll just spring for the ATE brand.

my father-in-law (body shop owner) showed me how to deal with the bearings without a dial indicator. but if i did want one - anybody have any links to share for a more budget-minded option?

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Andrew
Montclair, NJ
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1982 300D Turbo
120k
Petrol Blue Green

Harbor Freight has a dial indicator of very low quality that will suffice. Ask professor Google for some low brake dust pads.

You basically want everything pads, rotors (if yours are under specs and can't be cut), wear sensors, seals for the brake hub that holds the bearing in, wheel bearing grease. Do some research on how to pack a bearing. Simply smearing grease on is not correct.

ATE or Bendix really doesn't matter. Get the cheap one. Change them in sets. Buy locally if you get remanned because they frequently have to be returned. Hardware to hold the pads in should come with the pads. The hardware may be different depending on what calipers you end up with (I forgot).

Do one side completely before you disassemble the other so you have an example to look at.

Note That "Febi" is lower quality (frequently") than "Febi-Bilstein" or "Bilstein". Remember, no URO or no-name anything>

How are your shocks? Everything will be wide open but don't let a brake job turn (unnecessarily) into a complete front end refurb.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

What? 300D's need brakes? To stop from rolling backwards?

Best deal is to buy "fully loaded" calipers. Comes with pads and hardware.


Do NOT "cheap" on brakes. They are the only thing between you and a bus load of kids/pedestrians/brick walls etc. That $10 you "saved" can cost you, your family's or some one else's life.

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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

I think you got some really good advice here Kuene, looks like about all the decisions you need to make have been addressed. The only 2 cents I would add is that if you don't mind dusty wheels buy the Textar pads, if you mind dusty wheels buy Akebono Euro something or others.......maybe a couple bucks more, but you will not be sorry.

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'89 260e (212K Mi.), '92 400e (208K Mi.), '92 400e (not a misprint) (146K Mi.), '95 C220, '81 240D--Sold

By cheap I meant that of the 2 brands available as remans ATE & Bendix, there is no advantage of one over the other so buy the lesser expensive one locally.

OE rotors were the same cost as some of the lower quality rotors. This site can get OE parts for less than the local dealer will sell them. You don't need the fancy rotors, only a well working stock system. You ain't racing with multiple brake applications.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

I'd go for same year SD brakes and rotors.

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'85 300D Cal 280,000 miles
'14 GLK 350 60000 miles

Awesome. Thanks, all good advice. I order everything online, except the calipers. Picking those up from local Napa place in as I have to return/swap. Good price too.

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Andrew
Montclair, NJ
--------------
1982 300D Turbo
120k
Petrol Blue Green

picked up the calipers from NAPA today. Thought I'd share the unboxing/goods given there has been much discussion around rebuilt calipers from various sources on here.

they are branded Total Eclipse - note the photos are obviously just generic, but also don't match.


things seem to be in order




note that one has the mercedes star


and one does not


here is a closeup of one of the pistons


these were semi loaded - came with retainer clips and pins. But they did not come with any metal heat shield around the rubber piston seal. Is this OK? Guy at NAPA said this was how they were sold, and how they were to be installed. Should I try to use my old ones or just use like this.

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Andrew
Montclair, NJ
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1982 300D Turbo
120k
Petrol Blue Green