W210 compressor seized - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

vstech · #16 05-22-2016, 03:45 PM

Yes... I was VERY disappointed to find this leak in the syatem... DO NOT USE WRENCHES TO ATTACH SENDERS TO DRYERS!!!

They will thread in with finger force just fine...

A trick I use is set the parts together and gently unscrew the parts until you feel the threads click. Then stop and gently thread together.

jay_bob · #17 05-22-2016, 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zulfiqar

the compressor has an oil drain bolt - its the large hex right next to the connector, rebuilt/aftermarket compressors are shipped with very light oil in them, you need to fill and drain the compressor to wash out the shipping oil then refill with correct oil charge before installing. If you bought a denso new compressor they come shipped with about 100 ml PAG46 oil in them.

reason to post is that - you may have flooded the compressor with oil if you didnt remove the sump bolt (and if your supplier put some oil in there), this creates a problem with these units - the volume metering device on the suction plate of the compressor will stall and you wont get any pumping even with full 1000 grams charge.

I hope you bought the updated type compressor, its got a smaller volume metering valve and is named as Denso 7SBU16C. The original ones 7SB16C have a design fault where one suction reed fractures from its base plate and siezes the unit

I bought a GPD 6511631 (Chinese Denso 7SBU16C clone) from the rock. I wonder if this shipped dry, I turned it over every which way and rotated it. I did not hear any sound of oil moving around or slurping sounds out of the ports. I would think that if there was 100 ml oil in it that at least something would have come out the ports when I did this. Also the rubber shipping plugs were dry on the inside.

There was no instruction sheet, only a sheet that told me that if the original compressor grenaded then I needed to replace the entire system since the condenser and evaporator are parallel flow designs and can not be flushed. But I already knew that...

jay_bob · #18 05-22-2016, 11:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

Yes... I was VERY disappointed to find this leak in the syatem... DO NOT USE WRENCHES TO ATTACH SENDERS TO DRYERS!!!

They will thread in with finger force just fine...

A trick I use is set the parts together and gently unscrew the parts until you feel the threads click. Then stop and gently thread together.

I will definitely keep this in mind.

Another good plug for the pressure test method after reassembly. I had a small cylinder of dry co2 John loaned me to put pressure on the system. The leak was very slight but definitely perceptible on the gauges if you waited a few minutes. You could also hear it hissing ever so slightly. This is with 150 psi on the system.

Unfortunately I used up almost all the co2 for flushing and used up all the remaining co2 trying to chase the leak until I realized what I had done. Went up to John's yesterday morning hoping that he had a fix for it but no. So I am getting my new parts in on Friday and I assure you that I will handle those like a brain surgeon and then hopefully I will be able to get back to riding with ac after a month.

If I had gone straight to pulling a vacuum it would likely not have been noticeable since you are effectively only putting -15 psi on the system. Except it would have sucked moisture in that bad joint and contaminated the system.

Zulfiqar · #19 05-22-2016, 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jay_bob

I bought a GPD 6511631 (Chinese Denso 7SBU16C clone) from the rock. I wonder if this shipped dry, I turned it over every which way and rotated it. I did not hear any sound of oil moving around or slurping sounds out of the ports. I would think that if there was 100 ml oil in it that at least something would have come out the ports when I did this. Also the rubber shipping plugs were dry on the inside.

There was no instruction sheet, only a sheet that told me that if the original compressor grenaded then I needed to replace the entire system since the condenser and evaporator are parallel flow designs and can not be flushed. But I already knew that...

that compressor is sold under many different names and is always shipped with almost no oil in it. It is always a good idea to fill and drain it. This compressor is drained like GM V5 compressors, you need to remove the sump bolt.

jay_bob · #20 05-23-2016, 09:05 AM

Ok I will pick up another bottle of PAG 46 oil, drop the compressor, drain via the bolt, and refill with 120 ml per the WIS.

Is it better to put the new oil in the drain port, or the suction and/or discharge ports? Or some in each?

jay_bob · #21 05-25-2016, 03:18 PM

I have found several service manuals online for the 7SBU16C and they indicate that you should drain the oil out the drain bolt and refill.

However they are silent on the quantity or where to place it. I know it is 120 ml per the WIS.

Any experts out there, where is the best place to put the oil back into a new Denso compressor?

Zulfiqar · #22 05-26-2016, 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jay_bob

I have found several service manuals online for the 7SBU16C and they indicate that you should drain the oil out the drain bolt and refill.

However they are silent on the quantity or where to place it. I know it is 120 ml per the WIS.

Any experts out there, where is the best place to put the oil back into a new Denso compressor?

Fill the oil right where you drained it from, if you add from the suction port you will find that it will backflow well before 100 ml and you run the added risk of stalling the variable volume valve.

Treat this compressor just like an oldschool delphi V5, fill about 80% oil capacity of the compressor in the crankcase and the rest little bit in the suction and discharge ports.

The oil capacity cannot be advertised by denso as it depends on the car its installed in. e.g. most japanese cars are at the 600 grams range - lesser oil capacity too in those - no matter if they use the same compressor as this one.

Benz are at the 1kg range, more oil required because system is larger.

jay_bob · #23 05-26-2016, 05:19 PM

Awesome, I will be taking this on in the morning...while I am waiting on the puppy truck (FedEx Home Delivery) for the new dryer and sensors.

Learned a lot doing this and I will be sure to update when it's all good with the obligatory thermometer in the vent shot...

jay_bob · #24 05-27-2016, 08:27 PM

Z you were right!

I pulled out the compressor, opened the bolt next to the clutch connector, turned it over a drain pan, and sure enough a bunch of oil came out. I didn't measure it but it was way more than 120 ml.

So it got re-oiled through the bolt about 95 ml and the rest in the ports.

Put the new dryer in, the new sensors threaded in nice and smooth. Just a little snug up needed at the end with a tool, the rest was done with fingers only.

It's under pressure from CO2 and appears to be holding, we shall see tomorrow!

jay_bob · #25 05-28-2016, 09:20 PM

Got up this morning and put the gauges back on, it was still fully pressurized...

So I got in and drove up to Charlotte. John put the vacuum pump on and then hooked up the R134a bottle. Soon we had the evaporator temp down to 34 degrees, the compressor cycling on and off, and ice cold air out the vents even though the fan was on max, and all the doors open.

Drove back to Columbia, had to set the temperature on 72, since it was getting so cold in the car I had to apply reheat.

My wife and I ran errands all afternoon, in and out of the car, and it cooled down better than it ever has before.

I would highly recommend if you have a 210 with sub par air conditioning to go through this. It made a world of difference in the enjoyment of the car particularly if you live in a warm and humid place. Just be prepared to take a whole week off work for this.

vstech · #26 05-29-2016, 05:15 AM

Ok... I went through and through this...

WHERE ARE THE PICS?

jay_bob · #27 05-29-2016, 08:05 AM

There are 2 photos linked in post 12 showing the dash all disassembled.

I was going to do the "after" shots yesterday afternoon but it started pouring rain. Again.

jay_bob · #28 07-31-2016, 02:19 PM

I can definitely hit the low-mid 30s reliably on the discharge air temperature even when it is high 90s to low 100s in full sun, as it has been the last several weeks here.

Ok here are some more hints, a member PM'd me and I thought I would share these with everyone...

I would also recommend ordering/obtaining the following:

New carbon and pleated cabin filters. The carbon one makes a huge mess when you go to change it out inside the car, this way you can do it outside the car.

BM-210-0007 cover lock tool from Pelican - you need this to remove the retaining ring around the key switch. Looks like the Rook in a chess set. You can fake it with a couple small screwdrivers but this made it nice and easy.

DIN radio removal keys, you will need them for the stock radio and the climate controller.

Panel removal wedge kit at Harbor Freight, for removing interior pieces. Go ahead and pick up the green HBNR o-ring kit while you are there, in case you lose/damage one of the o-rings that come in the compressor kit. They also have a steel hook set, you will need a hook to slip in behind the instrument cluster and pull the cluster out of the dash board. It is friction fit in the opening and you have to pull quite hard the first time to free it.

If you have any light bulbs out behind the dash now is the perfect time to change them.

PAG46 oil, I would get two 8-oz containers, use one to flush the compressor and then the other to lube the o-rings and do the oil charge as you put things back together.

Something that can make precision measurements of oil. Check with your pharmacy, they should be able to sell you a syringe without the needle.

plastic film or bags and rubber bands - to seal off the ends of the lines after you flush/oil them, take them off right before you make up the joint.

1 gallon G-05 coolant and 1 gallon distilled water - you have to drain the cooling system.

Watch the youtube video many times and step through it frame by frame.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwebsKwQayY

On the expansion valve, the existing expansion valve has a stud that holds the hose retainer in place. Your valve will come with a tapped hole and no stud. They show in the youtube twisting the stud off the old EV and putting it in the new EV. Not so much in my case, that thing was frozen in place. So I went to Lowe's and picked up some socket head cap screws. I cannot remember the exact length I ended up with, I bought several different lengths along with flat and wave washers. So instead of putting the nut on the stud to hold the hose retainer, I used a screw. Bring your nut and confirm on the thread tester board the correct size. Pretty sure it was M6x1.25. Don't forget to pick up the vinyl tubing to rebuild the box drains too.

You will have to Dremel off some of the internal molded ribs inside the evaporator box to make the new evaporator fit. Don't forget to transfer over all the rubber bits from the old to new evaporator.

The heat core will pee everywhere. Even if you turn it upside down 10 times, it will pee some more when you start taking the box apart, so be careful if you bring it in the house to take it apart. Be careful removing the clips, they will launch into low earth orbit if you don't keep a hand on them while prying them off.

And when you fill the cooling system back up, be sure to burp it. I would fill from the disconnected upper radiator hose toward the head until it cannot take any more, then finish filling from the expansion tank. The first time you restart the engine be sure the EC button is lit up before cranking (so you don't run the compressor before charging) and crank the heat to HI. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge and drive around for a bit. Try to go up and down a couple of hills if you can. Make sure the heat actually gets hot as the temperature rises. This forces the air out of the heater core. Now you can focus on recharging the system. If you just went straight to charging on your first restart, then there is a chance you could overheat the engine due to a big air pocket getting pushed out of the heat core and getting trapped in the head.

And one more thing, I have a confession to make...
I was tempted by the "Rock" due to their lower prices. But the parts are all Chinese and you could tell it was really cheesy stuff. If I had to do this all over again I would have definitely spent the extra $$ and gotten the parts from Pelican...

jay_bob · #29 11-30-2016, 08:22 PM

Just found an awesome YouTube video that shows dashboard disassembly in a W210, wanted to put this link on this thread for anyone who follows...

https://youtu.be/Zdp4FDFJRcM

engatwork · #30 12-01-2016, 06:04 AM

Thanks for the link.