Good idea!

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

It should be possible to swap in the rear subframe as well to be able to match track and rear end ratios and rims. It would appear that this wouldn't be quite as easy as the front as you'd need to fab up the top spring perch, shock mounts as well as a differential mount.

Conceptually you'd be doing a "body swap" onto an MB suspension.

Again I have no idea of the feasibility in practice, but it does open a different line of thinking to doing a swap.

R107 rear subframe



I think if I were going to attempt this, I'd rig a jig of the front and rear subframes in relation to each other at the proper wheelbase and relative position (level) to the ground and then drop the body down to assess possible mounting points for the subframes.

Fun to think about.

There might even be an unforeseen benefit to such a strategy and that would be in licensing and titling. If, hypothetically, the two subframes were joined with say a "tubular" frame member before the donor body was removed and properly documented, the resulting vehicle with a new body would be potentially able to be licensed and titled as the "donor" Mercedes. (Think kit cars). This could be an elegant way to deal with some of the onerous smog requirements that can plague many desirable swaps. Every state is different and requirements vary, but it's worth contemplating.

...just sayin'

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

At 26:50 in this Wheeler Dealer video, it shows the removal and replacement of the front subframe of the R107 - https://youtu.be/7V-0uO8t1NQ

This is an excellent illustration of how a subframe could be used as a bolt on in a 617 engine swap.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

So I bought myself a Ranger! 1986 4x4 5spd manual, the body's pretty rusty but the frame's in very good shape. Engine runs a little funky, acts like fuel starvation, but what ever I wasn't planning on keeping that. The gas tank's leaky so I'm going to pick a new one up sometime next week. The Ranger's fuel system shouldn't have any trouble running diesel right?

Mach4, good idea to use the Mercedes sub frame but I'd like to keep the truck 4wd.

I'm actually considering a TDI engine because it's lighter and it's much closer to the power of the V6 in my truck already. What I don't like about that engine is how much electronic stuff is required to make it run. I'm totally comfortable with carburetors and the Mercedes engine doesn't seem to much more complicated so not quite sure what I'll do.

I realized I was totally over complicating the adapter, all I have to do is make the engine I'm swapping in look like the stock engine to the transmission which is actually pretty sympol.

Its now a _86_ not a late 90's? Please clarify as the two trucks use different front suspensions and transmissions.

I was looking at a 90s truck but bought this one instead

Some of the differences are:

If aluminum transmission pan = Toyo Kogo = Mazda. These have a removable bell housing. ( This is not the later Toyo Kogo M5OD with a built in bell housing that arrived in 1988 for some applications. )

If steel transmission pan = Mitsubishi I'm pretty sure only the Ford versions had a removable bell housing. These transmissions were somewhat troublesome in the day.

The engine could be a 2.3 4 ( might be carb or FI ) cylinder or a 2.9 V6 FI.

There are 3 different gas tank types ( 4 if you count the rear mounted dual tank setup ) Short bed / standard cab , Long bed / standard cab and Short bed / extended cab

There are also sub types for each bed / cab combo. Steel with carb , steel with FI , Plastic with FI. I'd be looking for a early 90 ish with a plastic tank. Look at trucks where the doors close under the roof rather than over the roof. The cab and wheelbase grew 2 or so inches when they changed door design and I'm pretty sure so did tank shape.

Here's what I've learned I'll need to do, feel free to add on.
Notch oil pan
Lift the truck, possible body lift
Remove the Ranger fuel pump and put a filter in place of it
Use 5/16 hydraulic line for the fuel return
Remove vapor return check valves and replace hard-line that goes to the bottom of the tank for fuel return
Possibly add a larger alternator
Use Mercedes oil cooler
Possibly need electric cooling fan
Push button for glow plug
Switch for fan if electric used

Notch oil pan

If using a MB motor, check clearances first. I'd be real tempted to remove the steel sump, plate it over then make a rear or side sump. The new sump would be connected with 1" hose / bulk head fittings and a pickup tube 1 size larger than the MB one.


Lift the truck, possible body lift

A body lift will allow the engine to sit higher in the bay however, you may need to adjust drive shaft length. Same goes for a suspension lift. Adjusting drive shaft length is a minor issue so I would not compromise other areas to use a stock part.

Remove the Ranger fuel pump and put a filter in place of it

The 86 V6 FI should have a frame mounted pressure pump under the drivers foot area and a lift pump in the tank. The lift pump alone will be fine. There is a black fuel debubbler in the lines near the pump, if you keep the 86 steel tank you need to keep the debubbler because any air in a diesel fuel system causes run problems. I'd go with an early 90's plastic tank because it has an internal sump and pump. Do you have the V6 or 4?


Use 5/16 hydraulic line for the fuel return

The stock FI return line will be fine, many times they are nylon and should be OK with Diesel but I'd have to check a material compatibility chart to confirm.

Remove vapor return check valves and replace hard-line that goes to the bottom of the tank for fuel return

Some industrial diesel engine manufacturers no longer want the line below fuel level. It can lead to the engine continuing to run even if the fuel solenoid is shut off. I haven't investigated the specific injection pump type to determine if it applies to older automotive pumps. A shut off that operated the fuel rack should be safe below the tank level.


Possibly add a larger alternator

No need to do this yet, lots of other considerations at the present time, use as much stock stuff as possible..

Use Mercedes oil cooler

Maybe, if you had one I'd install it, if not, leave room, loop the hoses and install later. Just be aware of oil temps on a hot day.

Possibly need electric cooling fan

Need for space is fine, if there is room I'd keep the stock fan for the moment.

Push button for glow plug

You will need some sort of indicator that the glow plugs are operating / ready to start. Industrial systems use a "pepper shaker" glow unit in the dash that serves an a visual indicator that the GP is ready.

Switch for fan if electric used

Use a thermo switch, it gets tiresome to remember to always flip the SW

Thanks that's super helpful! Most of that info was from a thread on swapping the engine into a Jeep.
Towing my truck home tomorrow and hopefully will be able to get this engine this weekend.https://westernmass.craigslist.org/pts/5635973736.html

Other then the engine is there anything else I should pull out of the car?

Will they let you buy the entire car and do you have space for it?

You want to pull as much that is attached to the engine as possible.

Wiring,

throttle linkage ,

All brackets , ( motor mount, air filter housing , various hose brackets )

bolts ( be sure to wind them back in your motor, bolts are critical and a huge time user to replicate ) ,

radiator hoses ( don't cut them as even bad hoses can be used for a pattern )

Fuel line ( if there are special fittings on the car end, unbolt. If standard hose with a clamp, just cut. Be sure to cap off / fold over the fuel hose to keep dirt out. )

Power steering lines ( unbolt them from the steering gear )

Exhaust down pipe to at least the bell housing area, farther back is better.

Motor mount ear brackets and the mounts themselves even if the mounts are bad as they can be sued for a pattern.

Don't rush the disassembly, take pictures of how the car is put together , expect to spend an entire day or more pulling this apart. Also, I'm pretty sure the hoods on these cars have a latch that will allow the hood to be stood straight up.

He was selling the entire car for $1500 so I don't want to get the whole thing. Thanks for the info that helps alot.

Here's the truck

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Offer him an extra 100 , 200 tops for the whole car and call it a day since that is about what a scrap metal yard will give for it minus the motor / trans. There is no way he is going to get $ 1,250 out of what's left.

Given he didn't have any takers at 1,500 and was willing to sell the motor and trans for $ 250 that should establish he was fishing for someone willing to pay too much for the car. And, if he really thought the car was worth 1,500, why didn't he drop the price to $ 1,250?

Ok I'll give that a shot. He already pulled the engine and transmission and I'd rather not have to rent another trailer but I guess it's be better to get the whole car.

What do I really need from the wiring? I thought there wasn't much of any electronics on this engine?

With the engine and trans already out, that takes away much of the benefit of having the entire car. Even though there isn't much wiring, it helps to have the alternator harness, glow plug wires and such. Projects stall because "make something out of nothing parts" eats lots of time.