|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Rattling sound from alternator?
OK, with the new battery the car starts right up. However, there is a rattling sound on/near the alternator. At first, I thought it might be the air cleaner mounts so I checked those and they look fine. I did buy some lock nuts to use on the back sides of the air cleaner mounts and tightened them down to further squelch any movement/rattling.
I tried throwing a glass of water on the belts with the engine running. The rattling sound momentarily stopped. One mechanic thinks that the problem might be bent fan blades on the alternator. How can I tell if the alternator fan blades are bent? He mentions using a large flat head screwdriver to move them back to original position. quote from mechanic's web site: "I have a 1981 300D. A few weeks ago the charge indicator light came on, so I replaced the voltage regulator (thanks for the plastic tie), and the light went off. Two weeks later I was driving with the windows down, and heard an unfamiliar metallic noise coming from the engine. The sound is coming from the front - near the alternator and water pump area. Per your advice I poured water over the belts and...the noise stopped. I sighed in relief, until I noticed that the belt had slipped on the alternator, which had stopped spinning. When the belt caught again, and the alternator started to spin, the noise returned - it's a grinding sound. This sounds like I need a new alternator, but I'm hoping that's not the case. Any ideas on what else I could do to try and isolate the noise further? If I do need a new alternator, is that something a novice could install? Thanks! i Michael, first check to make sure the metal fan blades behind the pulley are not rubbing against the alternator body. They sometimes get bent and rub. You can pry them back out with a flat blade screwdriver. If that does not help you will need to remove the belt and spin the alternator by hand to see what is going on." |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Do you have an idler pulley ?
That needs to be checked also... just had this problem with my F150.
__________________
1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Does a 1984 300DT have an idler pulley? Quote from the Haynes manual for the 300D.
"For each component there will be an adjusting bolt and a pivot bolt. Both bolts must be loosened slightly to enable you to move the component. Hold the accessory in position and check the belt tension. If it is correct, tighten the two bolts until just snug, then recheck the tension. If the tension is all right, tighten the bolts. It will often be necessary to use some sort of pry bar to move the accessory while the belt is adjusted. If this must be done to gain the proper leverage, be very careful not to damage the component being moved or the part being pried against." |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
if you remove the turbo/air filter u tube, you should be able to see the alternator fan spinning... if it's bent, you should see it with a good light.
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
On the surface it sounds like the Alternator and or Water Pump Bearings may be no good. Use a piece of broomstick, long screwdriver or mechanics stethoscope placed on the part you want to listen to determine where the sound is really coming from.
I have a mechanics stethoscope but prefer to use a 3-4 foot broom stick with one end on the part and the other end on my Ear. The broom stick keeps you way away from the moving parts and the stethoscope sometimes requires you to get your face closer to things the I would like. Also if the stethoscope gets caught in some moving part it is stuck in your ears making it more likely your face is going to be pulled towards the moving part. Lastly I find the stethoscope to be irritatingly loud.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
I removed the tube from the air cleaner then started the engine. It doesn't seem like the alternator fan is hitting the alternator. It sounds more like the bearings have gone bad. Do any of these car parts place have a way to check to see if it is the alternator bearings? If it is the bearings, is there anyway to replace them?
Last edited by HuskyMan; 05-11-2016 at 04:51 PM. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
If you can not find any where you are... pm me.... I have a good one 20 miles north of me...
__________________
1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
OK, I'll check around and see what I can find. Is it possible to DIY R&R of alternator bearings? Are there two bearings (front and back) or is there only one set of bearings? Any youtube videos for us DIYers?
Last edited by HuskyMan; 05-11-2016 at 11:07 PM. |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
There should be 2 threads on changing the alternator bearings.
Be sure to scribe a line acrossed the Alternator Housing and related parts so they go back in the same position. Repair Links Fast navigation Fast navigation Do It Yourself Links
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
Not sure this is what you need as I cannot view it. It has it is for an 88 Volvo.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6o_OrF2S_UA
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
I know that some of the car parts place, O'reilly, Advance Auto, Autozone and Napa can test the charging system of a car. Is their method of testing the charging system (i.e. alternator) accurate?
|
#12
|
||||
|
||||
Does the alternator pulley have an overrun clutch? I heard these going bad and it makes the alternator sound like it has rocks rolling around inside.
__________________
-Evan Benz Fleet: 1968 UNIMOG 404.114 1998 E300 2008 E63 Non-Benz Fleet: 1992 Aerostar 1993 MR2 2000 F250 |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#14
|
|||
|
|||
No AOD pulley on a OM617 alternator pulley (I do have on my 2002 T&C). First verify that the alternator fan blades aren't striking the bracket which is just below the blades. It was on mine, just slightly, after a belt replacement. There is very little gap, but maybe my bracket was bent. Regardless, I wacked it down a bit to "fix 'er".
If you have never adjusted or removed the alternator, have fun, and plenty of different wrenches on hand since they barely fit around all the stuff like EGR valve and AC tube. I re-designed so those two parts are no longer in my way, plus frame-mounted air cleaners on both my 300D's, so now I can loosen the alternator in a few minutes, but still not as quick as on my 1960's cars (30 sec).
__________________
1984 & 1985 CA 300D's 1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport 1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans |
Bookmarks |
|
|