You just never mind my exhaust plumbing! I'm an old man.....

Oh, you wanted to know about Mutt's exhaust plumbing. Well, there ain't none. If you take a look on my build thread you'll see the installation thru the front fender straight from the turbo outlet. IIRC, the pipe is 2 1/4" and no more than 18" long with a flex joint so the engine can move a tad.

Tim at Tim's Turbos in Falls Church, VA did right by me. The website is (the site cut out Tim's website - you'll have to Google it) . Good guy. As far as a bolt-on turbo, I never looked into that. The Mercedes setup with an integral wastegate is specific enough that unless you're willing to develop a system (turbo, wastegate, exhaust system, boost controller, and plumbing) the smart choice from my point of view is to modify the stock turbo more or less like mine is.

BTW - the T04 compressor does NOT plumb back to the factory intake manifold. Again, I show in my build thread how I got around that by modifying the stock manifold by adding a connector off the top of the manifold and blocking the original inlet. Any good machine shop ought to be able to do something like I had done for not a ton of $$.

I'm afraid I have some bad news for you guys. These engines are outside of the normal hot rod engines - small block Chevy or Ford, big block Chevy, or even Cummins ISB - so you're sort of on your own and none of it is as cheap as doing one of those common engines. I learned most of this at The School Of Hard Knocks and I'm still learning. I'm happy to share what I've learned but I'm afraid I can't take the $$ out of it. I will tell y'all that the best bang for the $$ was the SuperPump which might not be suitable for street use. The other changes I made helped a little, the SuperPump changed the whole personality of the truck.

EDIT: I have no experience with the MYNA pumps. I'm sure they're very good, too. I now have a sort of relationship with Goran and am confident in his work. Pretty much anything that gets more fuel into the cylinder will build more power and I'm convinced that adjusting timing, messing with the ALDA, etc. can only make slight improvements. The real power gains seem to be in a good pump whether MYNA of Dieselmeken.

Dan

A somewhat milder pump and maybe a slightly less modified turbo should get this engine in the 175 to 200 HP range with great reliability and street manners. Mine really wouldn't be happy chugging around town.

If you build it they will come!Call it a Stoked Stokes 617,I could see a few people pay a $1800-$2000 kit cost for a reved up 617.You do have a reputation built around this engine ,do what most racers do ,go for a production around your knowledge sir.

I just wanna be able to burn donuts if I want to!
I can chirp in 2nd if the peddle is down and the wind is right.

The cheapest way to accomplish that is with hard, narrow tires!

Dan

I'm retired and have NO interest in being otherwise. I run on 3/4 of a heart (the left outer wall was taken out by a heart attack) and I really don't have the energy to pursue this. But I'm more than happy to share what works and what (at least for me) didn't.

Really, I'm no Zen Master of the 617. Everything from the valve cover to the bottom of the oil pan is as it left Stuttgart other than simplifying things slightly to facilitate installation or service. Anyone can bolt on a better pump and clean up the exhaust system. As far as I'm concerned, the trick is not building too much engine for your application - every mod carries power gains and also some downside like reduced drivability, increased engine noise, lower fuel economy, etc. In my application HP is king and I really don't care about most of the downsides but for a driver you probably would.

So go out there and have fun with your Diesels!

Dan