Anyone used a HF engine leveler? - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

vstech · #31 05-30-2016, 04:52 PM

Its really a learn as you go thing

I found that lifting the rear of the car, unhooking everything then tilting pulling and lifting worked best...

Clemson88 · #32 05-30-2016, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

Its really a learn as you go thing

I found that lifting the rear of the car, unhooking everything then tilting pulling and lifting worked best...

I read somewhere that lifting the rear helped with the clearances. How high to you set the rear wheels off the ground?

When you remove the rear engine cross member do you leave the member attached to the body or take it out with the engine/transmission?

Stretch · #33 05-30-2016, 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clemson88

Thanks, since I have never lifted a Benz engine and transmission I am still considering the particulars/details of this project.

My though was that first I'd remove the transmission cross member and support the transmission with a small jack. Then remove the engine mount bolts. Then hook the engine hoist up and put a slight pressure on the hoist to make sure it isn't impact loaded.

The last step before attempting to remove the engine/transmission assembly would be to remove the rear engine support, if that's what the front cross member is called. At that point I'd begin lifting the engine and lowering the jack that is supporting the transmission.

Somebody tell me if this is wrong and please tell me how to correctly perform this operation.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clemson88

I read somewhere that lifting the rear helped with the clearances. How high to you set the rear wheels off the ground?

When you remove the rear engine cross member do you leave the member attached to the body or take it out with the engine/transmission?

A few years back I wrote this =>

How I took out my 1981 W123 300D (euro) non-turbo engine

I did remove the bonnet / hood because of working outside - didn't want the wind messing up my day

If you are worried about getting these rather tall engines - and rather long combinations of engine and transmission out and up and over the front bonnet / hood cross member you can do the following =>

Remove the front wheels - lower the car onto low axle stands / heavy duty wooden blocks. This stops the car going up as you remove the engine - the springs don't move.

The downside to doing this is that the engine crane really needs to move as moving the car with the front on blocks is pretty difficult!

Consider the state of the ground on which you will be working - gravel and small wheels on an engine crane do not mix!

In all cases I'd remove the transmission cross member before lifting - you'll find it is one heck of a lot easier to remove the propshaft that way too - you'll probably think this is a no-brainer when you get to do the job...

Clemson88 · #34 05-31-2016, 07:57 AM

I woke early this morning with a feeling today was not going to be a good day. Your link sure changed my attitude.

I didn't see a strap on the engine. All I could see holding it was the chains.

Stretch · #35 05-31-2016, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clemson88

I woke early this morning with a feeling today was not going to be a good day. Your link sure changed my attitude.

I didn't see a strap on the engine. All I could see holding it was the chains.

Yep I'm bad to the bone.

Jump on in there with both feet first - look later!

######

It really isn't rocket science - be careful - be slow - there's no race - if it goes wrong get it back down as low as possible as quickly as possible (in a controlled way).

Not having the car going up on the front springs as you lift the engine is a real help - means you can just concentrate on the engine. Downside is that you then have to move the engine on the crane. If you have a crappy work surface / drive way put down some plywood sheets if you happen to have them.

Clemson88 · #36 05-31-2016, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

Yep I'm bad to the bone.

Jump on in there with both feet first - look later!

######

It really isn't rocket science - be careful - be slow - there's no race - if it goes wrong get it back down as low as possible as quickly as possible (in a controlled way).

Not having the car going up on the front springs as you lift the engine is a real help - means you can just concentrate on the engine. Downside is that you then have to move the engine on the crane. If you have a crappy work surface / drive way put down some plywood sheets if you happen to have them.

Thanks, I wouldn't start this without a garage with a smooth concrete floor. I've been planning this for two weeks after spending two years considering the magnitude of the scope of work.

I'm obviously in no hurry.

Stretch · #37 05-31-2016, 12:34 PM

Well a garage sounds just right for a slow going project.

Clemson88 · #38 06-12-2016, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

Well a garage sounds just right for a slow going project.

I have unhooked the wiring, fuel lines and almost everything else on 380 engine's under the hood attachments and will move to the under carriage work fairly soon. Maybe the weather could be a little cooler here in the Upstate.

The cross member which is located near the rear of the engine has nothing resting upon it. Is it safe to remove this member? I ask because it appears to be an point of obstruction if removing the engine and transmission without separating them.

Thanks again to everyone for suggestions and recommendations.

Dan Stokes · #39 06-12-2016, 06:12 PM

Yes, the crossmember needs to come out. It's just a few bolts. I've seen folks pull an engine w/o pulling the crossmember but it's NOT worth it! much wiggling and swearing that can be avoided with minimal effort.

Have you managed to disengage the driveshaft yet? These can be a PITA though both mine (the 300SD and the 240D) came out pretty easily.

EDIT: I just went back and looked and evidently I didn't weight in on the HF engine tilter. I use mine all the time and while it's a bit clumsy compared to the OTC we had at work it does the job. Be sure to lube the snot out of it before you use it as they don't seem to be lubed from the factory and it really helps. I lube everything I can get to, especially the crank and the long screw and its follower.

Dan

Clemson88 · #40 06-12-2016, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dan Stokes

Yes, the crossmember needs to come out. It's just a few bolts. I've seen folks pull an engine w/o pulling the crossmember but it's NOT worth it! much wiggling and swearing that can be avoided with minimal effort.

Have you managed to disengage the driveshaft yet? These can be a PITA though both mine (the 300SD and the 240D) came out pretty easily.

EDIT: I just went back and looked and evidently I didn't weight in on the HF engine tilter. I use mine all the time and while it's a bit clumsy compared to the OTC we had at work it does the job. Be sure to lube the snot out of it before you use it as they don't seem to be lubed from the factory and it really helps. I lube everything I can get to, especially the crank and the long screw and its follower.

Dan

\

Thanks, Dan.

I have a loaner engine leveler from a friend who owns a shop. It's top shelf, everything he has is Snapon or equal brand but he doesn't like fooling with MBs.

I won't have any trouble with the drive shafts. I'll drop the transmission mount then the flex disk and take it apart at the center joint right after I loosen the engine mounts.

Clemson88 · #41 06-29-2016, 02:03 PM

I'm trying to decide what to do with the 380SE transmission. It's a 722.31 and the SD has the 722.303. Is the difference enough to prevent the SE transmission from being installed and dependable in the SD? Will it work?

Clemson88 · #42 08-12-2016, 07:32 AM

After sitting the 617 and transmission into the gasser body I found that the rear crossmember (engine support) from the diesel wouldn't bolt up. I just reattached the gas member and set a block of wood on it to support the transmission temporarily. I was waiting on the new transmission mount.

The gas crossmember didn't work. It wasn't in the correct location so I tried the diesel CM. It didn't work either. At first I thought I had bent the 617's CM but couldn't see any damage. I cleaned both crossmembers and compared them on the bench.

Having worked so much under the assumption that Mercedes built these 1 generation w126 bodies to accommodate both diesel and gas engines and transmission I found two more bolt holes which were plugged with rubber studs. They were easily removed with a #2 phillips head screwdriver. It is the exact location for this assembly. That is not mentioned in other gas to diesel conversion threads so I thought it important enough to note.

I'll post some pictures of the engine cleaning job later today after perhaps another good going over. It still has some rough spots but I can see the top of the upper oil pan. The aluminum and iron can be identified by sight.

I've cleaned with Gunk, a brush, plastic scraper and garden hose for three half-days. Every time I raise the hood I find a spot I've missed. I'm sworn by all that is right and good to stop this engine's oil leaks.

Clemson88 · #43 08-12-2016, 05:46 PM

Hard work no pay!

Clemson88 · #44 08-12-2016, 05:49 PM

Last group.

panZZer · #45 08-12-2016, 05:52 PM

Im an old school scrapmetalman.
chain hanging from a stout limb,
come along (block and tackle hand winch)
and a chain on the engine with a bolt thru the right links to get it angled the way I need it