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  #16  
Old 05-26-2016, 01:26 AM
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Some how or other I've ended up with two of these cheapo things (neither actually bought from HF but I guess they are similar).

One has the problem with the handle coming loose - I'll weld the bugger on there before I use it again

The other had a much more serious problem => The "U" bolt and nut fixes used to connect the chain to the "beam" were made from monkey metal - they were way more ductile than they should be and started to bend. One of the bolts stripped the threads and came out whilst I was lifting an engine. Not a great experience to have!

I've replaced the hardware that came with that balancer and now all is good.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
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  #17  
Old 05-26-2016, 08:11 AM
Shadetree
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Back in SC upstate
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A mechanic friend of mine offered to lend me one when I told him I bought the HF leveler. I'll return this one for a refund.

Thank you gentlemen.
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  #18  
Old 05-28-2016, 01:33 AM
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Ah now there's the best solution! Someone feels sorry for you for having to buy from HF!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #19  
Old 05-28-2016, 11:15 AM
Shadetree
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Back in SC upstate
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
Ah now there's the best solution! Someone feels sorry for you for having to buy from HF!
ha, I think it's more from guilt for not doing the engine swaps for me. I told him I'd disconnect everything on both cars including drive shafts. I made it clear I'd leave only the transmission cross members' and engine mounts' bolts, and remove the radiators and condensers and even the hoods. Anything else he wanted, I just didn't have a shop or lift to do the job.

All he had to do is lift the engines and put the drop the diesel in the gas body. I've dealt with those guys for 30 years and never asked 'how much.' He's too fair and honest to pin down on a price. He won't give me an estimate because he charges so little that giving an estimate requires a 'what if,' fee.

Believe it or not, about 15 years ago he picked up a 67 GMC pickup of mine which had a broken ring or pinion gear. He supplied a 12 bolt chevy positive taction rear end, changed spring hangers off the GMC rear end to the Chevy, installed the rear end and put the truck back in my yard for $120.

I waited about two weeks to drop by the shop and ask when he was going to pick the truck up and do the repairs. He told me he picked it up the day after I called and had it back that afternoon. It happened so fast I didn't see what they'd done. I paid him the $120 for the tow, rear end, installation and return of the truck. We didn't talk price until I asked how much I owed him.

Now you've made me feel guilty for making him feel guilty. I am a cad!
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  #20  
Old 05-28-2016, 11:52 AM
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For odd seldom use stuff harbor freight just makes it affordable. Same products sold up here in Canada under the princess auto banner. It is pretty much up to the buyer to determine if it is safe enough for each application. For example others might but I would never buy a serious spring compressor from them. Or a cheap car jack stand. Certain front end car ramps should be banned as well. Some Chinese products have not been improved even though failures are known. With serious resulting implications possible as a result.

Unfortunatly they have really spiked their prices up here in Canada over the last year or so it seems as well. On average still much cheaper than the known good quality products though.
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  #21  
Old 05-28-2016, 12:06 PM
Shadetree
 
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If a HF wrench breaks or a wire tie fails no one dies and damage is slight. If an engine hoist or a lever fails an automobile, engine or transmission can be destroyed.

I did not like the thought of lifting my engine with anything from them. That is why I asked about the leveler here. I have indescribable respect for some members here.
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  #22  
Old 05-28-2016, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clemson88 View Post
If a HF wrench breaks or a wire tie fails no one dies and damage is slight. If an engine hoist or a lever fails an automobile, engine or transmission can be destroyed.

I did not like the thought of lifting my engine with anything from them. That is why I asked about the leveler here. I have indescribable respect for some members here.
I ought to post pics of the two side by side...

But the HF leveler is broken right now...

Hint hint...
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  #23  
Old 05-29-2016, 12:55 AM
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I pulled a buick small block and installed a buick big block with mine without issue. In both cases engines were complete , carb to oilpan with transmissions attached. The big block had a th400 attached. That being said I yanked everything up front so I didnt have to lift it too high. Ive also lifted a few om603's that were half stripped down with it.
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  #24  
Old 05-29-2016, 09:34 AM
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I have a 2 ton leveler from HF, works fine. Also, a 2 t. 'cherry picker' from them also. Used them to pull 6.2 l diesel engines from my Blazer & pu. (6.2, pull engine only, not w/trans), worked fine.

-c-
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  #25  
Old 05-29-2016, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
I ought to post pics of the two side by side...

But the HF leveler is broken right now...

Hint hint...
Waiting for the pics.
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  #26  
Old 05-29-2016, 02:48 PM
Shadetree
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Back in SC upstate
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I appreciate that most of the HF tools work fine. However, the probability that I get a defective leveler is higher with HF than some of the more reputable manufactures.

A wrench I can take back and have replaced or the money refunded. With a leveler I can destroy one or another of two very nice bodies, either of two engines or either of two transmissions.

While the risk of failure may be low the cost of assuming the risk is always on the user. There is no way HF is going to pay for the damage without me paying a lawyer. I thing dealing with America's courts is worse than replacing either of the possible losses.

No offense meant to those who have bought and used HF levelers without issue. I certainly believe everyone here is being honest and am not impeaching their integrity.

Had I not been offered a loaner tool I would have certainly taken the risk of doing this job with a HF leveler.
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  #27  
Old 05-30-2016, 02:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clemson88 View Post
ha, I think it's more from guilt for not doing the engine swaps for me. I told him I'd disconnect everything on both cars including drive shafts. I made it clear I'd leave only the transmission cross members' and engine mounts' bolts, and remove the radiators and condensers and even the hoods. Anything else he wanted, I just didn't have a shop or lift to do the job.

All he had to do is lift the engines and put the drop the diesel in the gas body. I've dealt with those guys for 30 years and never asked 'how much.' He's too fair and honest to pin down on a price. He won't give me an estimate because he charges so little that giving an estimate requires a 'what if,' fee.

Believe it or not, about 15 years ago he picked up a 67 GMC pickup of mine which had a broken ring or pinion gear. He supplied a 12 bolt chevy positive taction rear end, changed spring hangers off the GMC rear end to the Chevy, installed the rear end and put the truck back in my yard for $120.

I waited about two weeks to drop by the shop and ask when he was going to pick the truck up and do the repairs. He told me he picked it up the day after I called and had it back that afternoon. It happened so fast I didn't see what they'd done. I paid him the $120 for the tow, rear end, installation and return of the truck. We didn't talk price until I asked how much I owed him.

Now you've made me feel guilty for making him feel guilty. I am a cad!

The Hoods do not need to be removed, they will go straight up.
The German Salute.


Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #28  
Old 05-30-2016, 02:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clemson88 View Post
If a HF wrench breaks or a wire tie fails no one dies and damage is slight. If an engine hoist or a lever fails an automobile, engine or transmission can be destroyed.

I did not like the thought of lifting my engine with anything from them. That is why I asked about the leveler here. I have indescribable respect for some members here.


If an engine hoist or a lever fails, it could be more than the engine, transmission or vehicle that will be damaged.
It could be YOU that is damaged.

Think about it, 600LBS of engine hanging on the end of the Hoist, and a cheap
Chicom "O" Ring in the ram is keeping you from harms way.
I think about it when pulling or setting an engine back in the engine bay.
Jocking it into position trying to align bolts etc....


Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #29  
Old 05-30-2016, 11:20 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
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Posts: 605
Just to suggest an alternative method of engine removal as long as we're on the subject.

When I pulled my 617, I also had concerns about the HF load leveler. I also didn't want to spend the money.

I bought a six-foot sling and found that the angle of the engine (with trans) was sufficient to get the engine up and out of the bay. The sling fits nicely right behind the lower pan and makes it pretty safe. The only difficulty was getting the rear mount up and over the rear cross member and then keeping it from scraping across the floor as it was pulled forward. Also be careful of the steering damper, as I wasn't paying attention and something hung up and bent it.

So it's a two person job. Someone has to manipulate a floor jack under the trans to help pull the engine forward as the other uses the crane. Same deal on installation.

Also, I was using a skid-loader instead of a crane, so I'm not sure the crane gets enough height to use this method. Should work, even if you have to use the second person to lever the back of the engine up and over the radiator support.

Thought I'd put this out there. Worked for me.
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  #30  
Old 05-30-2016, 12:10 PM
Shadetree
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Back in SC upstate
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carpenterman View Post
Just to suggest an alternative method of engine removal as long as we're on the subject.

When I pulled my 617, I also had concerns about the HF load leveler. I also didn't want to spend the money.

I bought a six-foot sling and found that the angle of the engine (with trans) was sufficient to get the engine up and out of the bay. The sling fits nicely right behind the lower pan and makes it pretty safe. The only difficulty was getting the rear mount up and over the rear cross member and then keeping it from scraping across the floor as it was pulled forward. Also be careful of the steering damper, as I wasn't paying attention and something hung up and bent it.

So it's a two person job. Someone has to manipulate a floor jack under the trans to help pull the engine forward as the other uses the crane. Same deal on installation.

Also, I was using a skid-loader instead of a crane, so I'm not sure the crane gets enough height to use this method. Should work, even if you have to use the second person to lever the back of the engine up and over the radiator support.

Thought I'd put this out there. Worked for me.
Thanks, since I have never lifted a Benz engine and transmission I am still considering the particulars/details of this project.


My though was that first I'd remove the transmission cross member and support the transmission with a small jack. Then remove the engine mount bolts. Then hook the engine hoist up and put a slight pressure on the hoist to make sure it isn't impact loaded.

The last step before attempting to remove the engine/transmission assembly would be to remove the rear engine support, if that's what the front cross member is called. At that point I'd begin lifting the engine and lowering the jack that is supporting the transmission.

Somebody tell me if this is wrong and please tell me how to correctly perform this operation.

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