Parallel flow consenser oil - w123? - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Demothen · #31 07-18-2016, 10:39 PM

Quite a few PM's. I certainly appreciate your advise. But both of those facts are again completely irrelevant to this conversation. As is how long I have been on this forum. If we really are here to help future readers, why is this relevant?

Demothen · #32 07-18-2016, 10:54 PM

In summation, the FSM calls for a certain amount to be added when the condenser is replaced. The install instructions for the parallel flow condensor kit suggest measuring the oil in the old condenser, then adding that amount to the new drier. Since my system has been completely flushed, I will be following the specifications from the FSM, and adding that amount of oil to the new drier. This is my interpretation of several difficult to understand sets of instructions. I have already added the called for amounts to the compressor itself and my freshly flushed evaporator.

leathermang · #33 07-19-2016, 01:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Demothen

Quite a few PM's. I certainly appreciate your advise. But both of those facts are again completely irrelevant to this conversation. As is how long I have been on this forum. If we really are here to help future readers, why is this relevant?

You have not been here long enough to know that a couple of people attack me no matter how conservative or how directly from the FSM I quote... if I do not respond someone will think what I said was incorrect.

Demothen · #34 07-23-2016, 08:41 PM

Well, got the system pressurized today. Was getting sub 50 degree temperatures in 85-90 degree temps, but i found a leak. Hopefully tightening up that hose stopped the leak, plus my can tap seemed to decide to leak on the last can. Will have to check it again tomorrow and see if I can get it cooler. Even with the giant parallel flow, it seems like I might have to run the high side pressures a little higher to get good cooling. Not sure.

If I cant get it working this time, I think I will bring it in to a shop and let them deal with it. My only theory is that the expansion valve got clogged or I am not getting enough airflow at the evaporator. I cleaned the evaporator coils with some foaming cleaner, but I suppose its possible that they are still dirty. Might try to get an evaperator temp measurement somehow to get a better idea what is happening.

funola · #35 07-23-2016, 09:49 PM

Did you pressurize it with Nitrogen? Or did you just charge it with refrigerant? Or did you do both?

Demothen · #36 07-23-2016, 09:52 PM

I pressurized with nitrogen first, but my small bottle was not sufficient to get up to operating pressure. I checked with soapy water for leaks, then vacuumed it down again and filled it with 134a. But as we added the last can we found a leak at the txv, and also noticed that the can tap was leaking.

funola · #37 07-23-2016, 10:08 PM

I thought the shop that sold you the disposable Nitrogen tank said it would be more than enough to do the pressure testing? Unless you had a real big leak? Did you test your test setup for leaks first? What pressure were you able to get it up to?

Demothen · #38 07-23-2016, 10:28 PM

I lost a bit hooking up the regulator. I think i got it up to about 100psi. A bit disappointed in that to be honest.

funola · #39 07-23-2016, 11:01 PM

Did you torque the TXV connections to spec per FSM? Did you use Nylog? Found a nice video on it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vAULfI8-Wwk

I bought some Nylog red which arrived today, have not opened it yet. Also got my second digital pressure gauge today. It is being tested for leaks overnight.

Demothen · #40 07-24-2016, 07:47 AM

Nylog yes, torque wrench no. No way to get it into place

funola · #41 07-24-2016, 08:31 AM

I didn't mean with a torque wrench but approx by feel. What's the deal with the disposable Nitrogen tank? It's a nice resource if it works. You say you lost some through the regulator. How did that happen? Care to provide some details?

As far as finding leaks at this point, did you see my thread "Cheap" Harbor Freight elec refrigerant leak detector test on testing the HF electronic leak detector? My test was with R152a and R12 but it should work with R134a also. For very slow leaks, the pick up has to be real close to the leak point but the HF unit works. If your R134a hasn't all leaked out yet, on a 90F day, static pressure should be around 100 psi so you may be able to find all the leak points (before the R134a emties).

Don't know what you are paying for R134a but 2 x 10 oz cans of R152a can be had from Walmart for $5. That's what I am running on now- getting 40 F vent temps on a 90 F day. If you decide to go that route, do not put the full 2 cans in there.... it's too much....more like 1.5 to 1.75 cans is sufficient.

Demothen · #42 07-24-2016, 08:53 AM

The disposable tank has a schrader valve at the top with a screw on regulator. Inside the regulator there is a fixed pin to depress the valve. That means when you are attaching the regulator you need to work quickly to thread it on since it will leak while you are tightening it until it seals. I put the regulator on twice so lost quite a bit of nitrogen.

I might try the leak detector.

I am running r134a. My understanding is i need approximately 80% of the r12 capacity - which is 2.9lbs according to the original sticker.
2.9 lbs = 46.4 oz
46.4 * 0.8 = ~37oz - which should mean I need 3 12 oz cans plus a little bit.
Does that seem right?

BillGrissom · #43 07-24-2016, 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

Can you promise that the PAO 68 you are suggesting is better for THAT..

No promises, I just offer ideas so people who care can search. This link took me 5 sec. Google more, speculate less.
Garages & Services / 25.03.2014 | HELLA
I would think that "staying in the compressor" would be more important in an R4 since it has no sump. In our cars, they mounted it down low. GM cars have them up high (all I have seen), which sure doesn't help.

funola · #44 07-25-2016, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillGrissom

No promises, I just offer ideas so people who care can search. This link took me 5 sec. Google more, speculate less.
Garages & Services / 25.03.2014 | HELLA
I would think that "staying in the compressor" would be more important in an R4 since it has no sump. In our cars, they mounted it down low. GM cars have them up high (all I have seen), which sure doesn't help.

Excellent info! From that article: "And 10 Vol % of the system oil quantity is already sufficient to carry out effective troubleshooting."

That suggests 10% PAO oil is sufficient in lubrication of the compressor. In our W123's, 8 oz PAG/ mineral oil and 2.9 lb refrig. is 17% oil. 8 oz oil and 2.2 lb refrig. on some W123's is 22% oil. Does more oil less refrig. = less cooling and less oil more refrig. = more cooling?