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#1
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You can replace the hose yourself. I did. If like my 1984 & 85 300D's, standard -10 and -12 hose works for compressor outlet and suction, resp. I used "reduced barrier" for the -12. Use a hacksaw and/or cut-off wheel to slice and peel off the factory crimps. You can secure the new hose w/ "ferrules" if you have a Master-Cool crimper (like me), or buy Oeticker "stepless ear clamps" on ebay and use a nail puller to tighten. Breeze smooth screw clamps would work, but look less professional. All can be bought on ebay cheap.
I doubt that accumulator has dessicant bags like your "filter-drier" does. The later is on the liquid line, whereas yours is in gas. It probably serves a muffler/surge tank function. I would slosh ethanol around in it and thoroughly dry it, then slosh some AC oil. If you use PAG oil, don't leave it exposed to the air for long since it absorbs moisture.
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's 1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport 1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans |
#2
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Quote:
I do think the closest thing which seems reasonable given how important not having ' black death ' remnants possibly in that muffler... is the situation described by Zulfigar....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#3
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I brought all of the lines I have into the hose shop. The owner said that the canister on the suction hose is just a muffler or damper so that the refrigerant doesn't slam into the compressor, and it also gives an area for the liquid refrigerant to gather and vaporize so that the compressor doesn't suck in liquid refrigerant. He told me that it's fine to reuse and he will clean it out when he rebuilds the hose.
He quoted me roughly $50 for each line that he rebuilds. Most likely having all 3 lines rebuilt plus buying a new short blue liquid line from the drier to the condenser will cost a fraction of the price of a new suction hose. The shop is also going to repair the stripped-out threads of the parallel-flow condenser. They might be ready for pick-up tomorrow afternoon. Fast turnaround! ![]() ![]()
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Stop paying for animal enslavement, cruelty, and slaughter. Save your health and the planet. Go vegan! I did 18 years ago. https://challenge22.com/ DON'T MESS WITH MY MERCEDES! ![]() 1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C 1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles |
#4
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#5
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Just because Squiggle and the shop owner calls it a suction line accumulator does not mean much. Typos and mistakes are possible. Look at the Mercedes line drawing compu_85 posted as many times as you need then come back.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#6
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X2,3,4
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
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