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  #1  
Old 08-15-2016, 09:58 PM
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Alternator bolts on 1984 300D stuck!!

I loosened the adjuster bolt (10mm). I then sprayed PB glaster on the two mounting bolts (17mm). The top bolt turns counter clockwise loosen fine, the bottom bolt needs a breaker bar.

I'm also turning it counter clockwise using a long breaker bar but it seems VERY TIGHT. I stopped because I don't want to strip anything....any chance this bolt is reverse threaded (turn clockwise to loosen)????? Do I need to retighten the adjuster bolt, then loosen the mounting bolts?
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  #2  
Old 08-16-2016, 05:23 AM
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It was tight on mine.I heard sometimes they break.You could find another one at hardware store.
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  #3  
Old 08-16-2016, 10:08 AM
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The very bottom bolt may be very rusty and seized to the aluminum
mounting bracket.
It is the lowest bolt and subjected to all the water, salt etc... from the road.

I had this problem with the 85 300D several years ago. The bolt would turn, but not come out.
I had the engine out and was swapping parts over to the new rebuilt engine. I had thrown the timing chain.
The was bolt completely unscrewed from the threads but would not come out of the aluminum bracket.

I finally removed the mounting bracket from the engine and set it with the Alternator up right
and soaked it with Kroil for a week.
Even used an impact gun spinning it to no avail.

Finally used a smaller diameter bolt and beat the snot out of it, and drove it out.
When I got it out, the bolt was so swollen from the rust, it was almost part of the bracket.

Now I slather the bolt with Anti-Seiz before putting one back in.
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  #4  
Old 08-16-2016, 10:53 AM
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Is one of the bolts held on with a nut, instead of going into the bracket? Maybe you are just spinning the nut but not actually relieving any tension?

My technique is to always go very slow and take breaks. Try to get penetrating oil in the threads overnight at least, then soak it again and start loosening it. Once you rotate it a bit, soak it again and let it cool for a couple minutes. I dont have much solid evidence, but I think most of the time if a bolt breaks after you have started loosening, its actually caused by overheating it and weakening the steel.
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  #5  
Old 08-16-2016, 12:01 PM
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partial success!!!

I ended up using a long breaker bar with a 1/2" drive attached to a 17mm socket. I used PB blaster on the bolt allowing me to turn the bolt, it has backed out about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. When I try to use a regular 3/8" drive socket tool (approximately 11 inches long), I can't get it the bolt to budge!

I stayed with it last night until 1:00 AM cranking using the long breaker bar. I'm going back to work today again. The idea of removing the alternator bracket from the engine may be where I ultimately go with this little problem......
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  #6  
Old 08-16-2016, 12:04 PM
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Have you tried running it back in now that it's loose? Keep soaking it with penetrating oil too.
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  #7  
Old 08-16-2016, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Demothen View Post
Have you tried running it back in now that it's loose? Keep soaking it with penetrating oil too.
Yes, once you unscrew it slightly, keep going back and forth, keeping the threads wet w/ penetrating oil. That will help flush out the rust that is jamming the threads. Rapping on the end of the bolt can help too, by producing a hydro-shock to flush rust, once it is filled w/ oil. I use a 17 mm box wrench on that bottom bolt, and rap the wrench with a hammer to get it started. If really stuck, you can buy a stubby "knock wrench" that has a place for hammering. An air impact wrench is the same idea (anyone try HF's 700 ft-lbf "Earthquake" model?). Coat the threads w/ anti-sieze when re-installing, as I do anywhere steel and aluminum contact.

At least you don't have a 1985 CA 300D. First time I replaced the alternator was frustrating, trying to work wrenches around the rear heat shield, EGR, and AC tube. Now that the EGR valve is off and the AC high-pressure re-routed straight to the condenser, it is easy to get at the bolts. For others, note that the front nut is welded to the alternator bracket, so you might get frustrated when your wrench can't turn it.
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  #8  
Old 08-16-2016, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
For others, note that the front nut is SUPPOSED TO BE welded to the alternator bracket, so you might get frustrated when your wrench can't turn it.
I fixed it for you!...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #9  
Old 08-16-2016, 01:14 PM
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Keep in mind the alternator CANNOT BE PROPERLY ADJUSTED WITHOUT LOOSENING ALL 3 REAR 17 MM BOLTS!!!

MANY THINK INCORRECTLY that only the top outer and bottom bolts need be loosened...
This is wrong and will result in damaging the expensive adjuster bolt and bracket...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #10  
Old 08-17-2016, 10:55 AM
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It should be free... take out the top two alt bolts and it should come out.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #11  
Old 08-17-2016, 02:34 PM
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It finally came out!!! Here's a breakdown of the final success story:

1. Today, I put more PB blaster in and around the bottom alternator bolt.

2. Wrenched on it using a special thin ratcheting 17mm wrench from Sears. I also used a normal 17mm socket drive wrench in between taking rest breaks.

3. Then, took the long breaker bar and placed the end of it against the bolt head and hit the other end with a large sledge hammer. VOILA! The bolt began to come out!

4. I then removed the top 17mm bolt, then went ahead and knocked the bottom 17mm bolt out using my sledge hammer technique. I didn't hit it hard, just enough to move it on out.

Now that it is out, I have another issue. I'm purchasing an alternator with no drive pulleys so I have to remove the drive pulleys off this old alternator. Any ideas on how to remove the pulleys? Do I spray PB blaster than try to break the nut loose???


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Alternator bolts on 1984 300D stuck!!-300d-alternator-001.jpg  
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  #12  
Old 08-17-2016, 07:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HuskyMan View Post


Now that it is out, I have another issue. I'm purchasing an alternator with no drive pulleys so I have to remove the drive pulleys off this old alternator. Any ideas on how to remove the pulleys? Do I spray PB blaster than try to break the nut loose???


Soaking in advance with PB Blaster is helpful.

Removing the pulley can be done with simple hand tools.
I used a combo wrench and one of the old alternator bolts, see post # 2 on my alternator update thread.
DIY - AL129X alternator in a 1978 W116 300SD
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  #13  
Old 08-17-2016, 09:23 PM
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Easiest way to remove pulley bolt is with an impact wrench. Most auto parts stores will swap over for free.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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