617A electric fan - your setup

[cho]

hi guys,


I just went over Stretch's reply considering problem that guy had with
fan clutch.. he mentioned electric fan.

I have maybe worst case scenario, direct drive fan from w123 bolted
on my 617A nose which gives me pain on high revs. Guy form STD forum
went electric with Volvo 960 fan and shroud and some Saab 900 intake m22 sensor. (junkyard price both 60$) he did it without relay as the sensor is 21A rated.

I'm not interested in power increase,just to get rid of direct fan.
What is your el.fan setup and how did you resolve temp.sensor issue
was it worth it and are you satisfied?

thanks
ChO

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[Stretch]

Here's my solution

Will I get vibration problems if I remove my cooling fan?

I bought a kit from Kenlowe (when I was feeling rich)

The problem I have with the kit that I bought from them is that the temperature sensor needs to be shoved into the radiator fins - an ugly way of doing it in my opinion. I think (at great expense) you can buy a sensor that you can plumb into the cooling system though.

If I were to do it all again I'd find a good second hand air mover from the scrap yard and wire up a much more elegant custom made system {probably with Bluetooth for some inexplicabe reason because it seems that every car needs Bluetooth these days - stoopid out of date technology that'll will make you look like a prize wanker next year}

[cho]

Originally Posted by Stretch

Here's my solution

Will I get vibration problems if I remove my cooling fan?

LOL I've opened another one (Pandora's box...with bluetooth attached )

.

[cho]

Originally Posted by Stretch

I bought a kit from Kenlowe

do you have any Amp draws issues?

.

[Stretch]

Originally Posted by cho

do you have any Amp draws issues?

.

Well no - well I don't think so - urmmm not sure because

1) It didn't get warm enough here for the fan to work!
2) Since that thread was started I've taken the car to bits - the fan is now back in the box it came in...

[charmalu]

How about using the auxillary fan switch part# 006 545 14 24



I installed a Spal electric fan on the 85 300D. driving in intown traffic on a warm summer day the eng temp stays in the normal range. the fan will come on, but most of the time it is off.

I do have a over ride switch on the dash to turn it on manually. used a MB rocker switch, and used a MB Relay and plug with pigtail . It is under the black plastic box on the drivers (Left) side inner fender along with the other 2 relays. looks all MB stock.

I originally used a 20A ice cube relay, then later found two in the JY, a 30A and a 40A with the flat spade fuse in the top. one is green and the other is orange.

OK......doing some searching couldn`t find the relay here on the Bird (pelican) but found this thread on benzworld on this same subject.

Auxiliary fan relay replacement - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum



Charlie

[Simpler=Better]

Originally Posted by charmalu

How about using the auxillary fan switch part# 006 545 14 24



I installed a Spal electric fan on the 85 300D. driving in intown traffic on a warm summer day the eng temp stays in the normal range. the fan will come on, but most of the time it is off.

I do have a over ride switch on the dash to turn it on manually. used a MB rocker switch, and used a MB Relay and plug with pigtail . It is under the black plastic box on the drivers (Left) side inner fender along with the other 2 relays. looks all MB stock.

I originally used a 20A ice cube relay, then later found two in the JY, a 30A and a 40A with the flat spade fuse in the top. one is green and the other is orange.

OK......doing some searching couldn`t find the relay here on the Bird (pelican) but found this thread on benzworld on this same subject.

Auxiliary fan relay replacement - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum



Charlie

Do you know exactly what temp that switch turns on and off at?

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by Stretch

Here's my solution

Will I get vibration problems if I remove my cooling fan?

I bought a kit from Kenlowe (when I was feeling rich)

The problem I have with the kit that I bought from them is that the temperature sensor needs to be shoved into the radiator fins - an ugly way of doing it in my opinion. I think (at great expense) you can buy a sensor that you can plumb into the cooling system though.

If I were to do it all again I'd find a good second hand air mover from the scrap yard and wire up a much more elegant custom made system {probably with Bluetooth for some inexplicabe reason because it seems that every car needs Bluetooth these days - stoopid out of date technology that'll will make you look like a prize wanker next year}

A Friend of mine had one of those Sensors you wedge between the Radiator Core and it wore a hole through the Core.
She bought the Car used with that installed and drove it for 15 years so it did last a long time before that happend.

[Stretch]

Originally Posted by Diesel911

A Friend of mine had one of those Sensors you wedge between the Radiator Core and it wore a hole through the Core.
She bought the Car used with that installed and drove it for 15 years so it did last a long time before that happend.

Well 15 years on a radiator isn't too bad I guess (for these days!) - but it is good to know that my gut feeling of an inelegant solution does indeed cause trouble - thanks!

[Simpler=Better]

You can get temp switches that go into the thermostat housing, I know that the Ford guys like to use Taurus 2 speed fans and a BMW 2 temp switch. I don't know the thread pitches, but I imagine you could use the hole the EGR temp sensor normally goes into (on the thermostat housing) to trigger the fan.

Budget Dual Fan Controller Setup / Taurus Fan Setup - NastyZ28.com

A word of warning: be sure to get the correct temperature switches. I'm running a generic on at 210°F off at 185°F switch. My DD has a 192°F thermostat...so once she's up to temp the fan never shuts off x_X. I need to fix that one of these days.

Starting the motor up with no fan is surprisingly quiet

[cho]

Originally Posted by Simpler=Better

You can get temp switches that go into the thermostat housing

yes,I have been considering that one but thread is a problem
M10 x 1.5 there is no proper temp switch in that thread size.
(in place of dormant vacuum valve as my EGR is completely removed)

105C-95C-90C (for two speed) is the best,but all of them come in M22 or M14 thread size.
If I choose not to go with Saab intake sensor (which is also M22) I might
try down-thread to M10 some used M14 sensor and see what happens...

if proven good,I have no need to drain coolant and later actions will be much
easier also....


edit: bmw sensor you spoke about is 61311378073 m14 bmw 99-91 on my watch list also


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[Simpler=Better]

Since you're tapping aluminum you can get away with an el cheapo eb*y tap, they're around $10 shipped.

EDIT: Since you're on the metric side of the pond, I imagine metric taps are widely available

[cho]

Originally Posted by Simpler=Better

Since you're tapping aluminum you can get away with an el cheapo eb*y tap, they're around $10 shipped.

thanks mate,I have those in metric el priceo version

but I don't want to tap into t-stat housing as it seems no maneuver place
for such action,instead I will attempt to do hack on sensor itself (brass?).

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[kerry]

I had an electric fan for the 617NA in my 409d. It was inadequate under high load conditions. Switched to a direct drive fan and the engine stayed cool under all conditions. Why not just add a fan clutch to your existing engine?

[cho]

Originally Posted by kerry

I had an electric fan for the 617NA in my 409d. It was inadequate under high load conditions. Switched to a direct drive fan and the engine stayed cool under all conditions. Why not just add a fan clutch to your existing engine?

well...I did not set my mind yet...I know that I have to drop direct fan
so far I'm collecting data for both options,for the Visko fan clutch all is well known,..the electric one intriques me...

optimal solution for electric has to have shroud,has to have 2 speeds
also as a backup 2 fans are desired,plus pull has to be with some
serious cfm at least in second gear. if those conditions are met under 16A
we have a winner

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