I am guessing I am stumped as you.

If it fires right up and revs/ idles nicely in the AM, I cannot see how there's "air" in the system at this point. Normally, if there was air, you would hear a metallic clang but that works itself out within 50 miles. However, you can drive the car without issue other than an annoying metallic clang sound.

However, once it warms up while in park, it will die?

300D sputters-stalls when warm

It doesn't die immediately when warm and in park, but it will sometimes die if I rev up then let off the throttle.

There is definitely a metallic clang (nailing?) that I hear but I didn't know if it was a normal diesel sound or something to worry about. It is rhythmic with the rotation of the engine, not a single 'clang'.

OK, apparently a bunch of folks have this issue ... as there are threads all over the place. There does not appear to be a general consensus relative to an A to Z method to diagnosis the issue(s). There does appear to be an assortment of suggestions ...

That clang is normal for new injectors as it's air in the lines. However, ranging from 1 mile to up to 50, it will go away. However, I never had a person experience the issues you have.

OK, re-read all of your posts.

Apparently, prior to replacing fuel system components, the car would not start.

Now, it starts but won't go or stay running ...

The link you posted definitely sounds like my issue. I will certainly check the fuel tank vent this weekend.

It is a long story, but when I first bought the car, it was running ok at first, with good power. But after a few trips around the block, it made a loud squeaking noise and stalled. I tore into it and got deeper and deeper and replaced tons of parts. After reassembly, I had the hardest time getting it to start and eventually concluded that it was air in the lines causing the non-start issue. Now it is starting, but has no power....

OK ... as for the current issue, and checking out the various threads and posts relative to this problem, my .02 cents / IMO is the following: I would refrain from tossing any real money into the problem as it looks like folks are just throwing parts at a problem.

The clear fuel line idea is a good idea. Cheap and you can see if you have a seltzer machine going on.

Removing fuel and oil filler caps is a good idea as it's free.

I have never had an issue with one of my rebuilt lift pumps as those real Bosch kits are bullet proof. Injectors should be fine as well. The OFV has so few parts I cannot imagine I assembled the ball bearing and spring in reverse order. If you want, pull that and take a peek. In the event I did that backwards, I am truly sorry. I have done a lot of those and maybe I screwed up. I honestly don't think I did, but I would check that ... being compulsive in some regards, now I am questioning myself ... although I have done these over and over ...

An important lesson: Do not tear into it and do a bunch of stuff. Do one at a time and observe the results by starting the engine and see how it behaves. This is especially true if you are not an expert on these engines. Even if you are an expert, it is better to do one job at a time and test in between.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

A valid point, but in my case, it was a combination of maintenance/wear part replacement and troubleshooting. It was also a case of convenience and not wanting to completely reassemble in between jobs. With such limited time to work on the car, I have to try to maximize my time.

+1

Gruß
Volker

Typical behavior for the gearbox if the engine has only little power.


Yes, I also think the injection pump gets air instead of fuel


Don´t remove the ALDA
Block the EGR (you already did as I have read)


How old are your fuel lines?

What you describe sounds exactly like a pinhole in a fuel line like Jay_bob said.

You should replace all your fuel lines from the fuel tank to the injection pump housing including all hoses on the pressure side of the lift pump.
If there is a pin hole on the pressure side it is as bad as on the suction side. There will be no fuel leaking but air will get in.

If you are not 110% sure that every fuel line is perfect and as good as new, you should replace it.
Even a slightly slipping hose clamp can let air in but no diesel out!


Gruß
Volker

I like removing it altogether. My symptoms were idle great but give it gas and it goes nowhere. I did plumb in a little fuel tank under hood first to eliminate any fuel restriction possibility.

__________________
What Would Rudolph Do?
1975 300D, 1975 240D, 1985 300SD, 1997 300D, 2005 E320 , 2006 Toyota Prius

I got a little time to work on it tonight. I installed the clear hose in place of the cigar hose and did not see any bubbles while idling or while revving by hand. Obviously I couldn't look for bubbles while driving.

I also swapped fuel filters again just to be sure, checked all the fuel lines under the hood, and bypassed the switchover valve between intake manifold and ALDA. I also unplugged the brown line going to the shut off valve, just in case...

Nothing helped...as before, the car starts immediately and idles just fine. It has very little power while driving when cold, but it at least drives and stays running while cold. It revs way too high before it shifts into 2nd, but then it almost immediately shifts into 3rd, which bogs it down, since I'm only going about 15mph at that point. When it does shift from 1st to 2nd, I immediately hear a loud hissing noise after the shift that sounds like the turbo spooling.

As it warms up, it runs progressively worse until it gets fully warmed up (does not overheat) and eventually it dies when I stop. Once it dies, when I attempt to restart, it will barely crank, as if the battery is dead. I'll be curious to see tomorrow if it starts up easily, or if the battery is truly dead.

Tomorrow I am planning to check all the fuel lines in the rear of the car to see if any are leaking. Any thoughts on what would cause it run progressively worse (and eventually die) as it warms up? It is not overheating, it is about 90 degrees C when it starts to run poorly and die.

Thanks.