It doesn't die immediately when warm and in park, but it will sometimes die if I rev up then let off the throttle.

There is definitely a metallic clang (nailing?) that I hear but I didn't know if it was a normal diesel sound or something to worry about. It is rhythmic with the rotation of the engine, not a single 'clang'.

300D sputters-stalls when warm

OK, apparently a bunch of folks have this issue ... as there are threads all over the place. There does not appear to be a general consensus relative to an A to Z method to diagnosis the issue(s). There does appear to be an assortment of suggestions ...

That clang is normal for new injectors as it's air in the lines. However, ranging from 1 mile to up to 50, it will go away. However, I never had a person experience the issues you have.

The link you posted definitely sounds like my issue. I will certainly check the fuel tank vent this weekend.

OK, re-read all of your posts.

Apparently, prior to replacing fuel system components, the car would not start.

Now, it starts but won't go or stay running ...

It is a long story, but when I first bought the car, it was running ok at first, with good power. But after a few trips around the block, it made a loud squeaking noise and stalled. I tore into it and got deeper and deeper and replaced tons of parts. After reassembly, I had the hardest time getting it to start and eventually concluded that it was air in the lines causing the non-start issue. Now it is starting, but has no power....

OK ... as for the current issue, and checking out the various threads and posts relative to this problem, my .02 cents / IMO is the following: I would refrain from tossing any real money into the problem as it looks like folks are just throwing parts at a problem.

The clear fuel line idea is a good idea. Cheap and you can see if you have a seltzer machine going on.

Removing fuel and oil filler caps is a good idea as it's free.

I have never had an issue with one of my rebuilt lift pumps as those real Bosch kits are bullet proof. Injectors should be fine as well. The OFV has so few parts I cannot imagine I assembled the ball bearing and spring in reverse order. If you want, pull that and take a peek. In the event I did that backwards, I am truly sorry. I have done a lot of those and maybe I screwed up. I honestly don't think I did, but I would check that ... being compulsive in some regards, now I am questioning myself ... although I have done these over and over ...

An important lesson: Do not tear into it and do a bunch of stuff. Do one at a time and observe the results by starting the engine and see how it behaves. This is especially true if you are not an expert on these engines. Even if you are an expert, it is better to do one job at a time and test in between.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

A valid point, but in my case, it was a combination of maintenance/wear part replacement and troubleshooting. It was also a case of convenience and not wanting to completely reassemble in between jobs. With such limited time to work on the car, I have to try to maximize my time.

Have you confirmed that your turbo is operating correctly?

Could the screeching you heard have been the turbo seizing up?

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

I haven't put a boost gauge on it yet, but it spins freely by hand and there isn't a ton of end play.

Re-check valve clearances, they may have gotten tight again, causing compression loss when car gets hot.

Unlikely, but maybe you have a clogged fuel vent?
Try removing the fuel cap the next time it dies when hot.

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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

Next time when cold, hookup an external fuel tank (at the primary fuel filter) with enough capacity to run the car until it gets hot.
Have the fuel return go into your external fuel tank.

If it still dies with an external tank when hot, you've ruled out any problems with items aft of the primary fuel filter.

If it doesn't die with an external tank when hot, you know your problem is aft of the primary fuel filter.

__________________
78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

Thank You. A few people have suggested this, and I'll give it a try once I get it restarted (I'm assuming it will restart once it cools down), but I don't understand how this could be related to it acting like the battery is dead once it gets hot. I can understand that this might be causing my probably fuel starvation issue, but don't see why it would prevent the starter from cranking properly.