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#1
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Need ideas for throttle wire OM617 to OM606
Hi everyone!
I'm replacing the old OM617 to a newer OM606. All has gone well, but I'm sort of stuck when it comes to finding a smart and reliable way to convert the throttle rod linkage from the OM617, to the wire on the OM606. The pivoting pedal from the OM606 won't fit inside the footwell. Has anyone else conducted a similar project? If so, how and what did you do? Thanks in advance!
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![]() 1985 W460 300GD OM617.912 w/ STT turbo (ongoing OM606 engine swap) 2011 W212 E220 CDI |
#2
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Are you using the OM606.962 (turbo) or .912 (non turbo) out of a W210? Or a .910 (non turbo) from a W124?
The versions from a W210 use a drive by wire system. The W124 used a legacy style injection pump with a mechanical cable control. Most people who do this modification (putting an OM606 into an older body) get a pump from a W124-based 606 for control reasons. The control system can stay mechanical instead of trying to integrate the electronics into an old car. However if you are also swapping over the 722.6 transmission it will be bettter to bring over all the electronics. If you have a turbo engine, the elements can be updated to turbo rates by Goran Lundgren (Dieselmeken). You are lucky, you're local to him in Sweden. If you are using the full electronic package, the 606 in the W210 uses a pedal that pulls a Bowden cable that rotates a potentiometer in the engine bay. The older 123s have a crank rod that protrudes through the firewall. It should be relatively simple to adapt the rotary pedal sensor to the existing 123 style pedal. I would see if a 124 pedal would fit better in the vehicle foot well. These attached to a cable in the engine compartment that pulled on the rack lever at the injection pump. This could be adapted either to a mechanical pump or the sensor used on the W210s since it is a Bowden cable arrangement.
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family Still going strong 2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD) 2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD) both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023 2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles) 2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles) 1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh 1987 300TD sold to vstech |
#3
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Hi everyone, thanks for showing interest in my problem!
Quote:
Quote:
The G300 TD 96-00 had the OM606.964. If I buy a new pedal and wire for it, will it work with the mechanical pump? Or are newer pumps drive-by-wire?
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![]() 1985 W460 300GD OM617.912 w/ STT turbo (ongoing OM606 engine swap) 2011 W212 E220 CDI |
#4
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Quote:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bellcrank There are some calculations if you're so inclined (pun intended!) here => Mechanisms
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#5
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I found this video which shows what I'm doing on my w123 603 swap.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-SYeITOnxYI
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Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes! 1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k 1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered 1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold] |
#6
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Quote:
Quote:
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![]() 1985 W460 300GD OM617.912 w/ STT turbo (ongoing OM606 engine swap) 2011 W212 E220 CDI |
#7
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To me - it looks like in the last few seconds of the video the end of the attachment has a hole for the wire. The camera angle moves round so you can see the hole in the bulkhead and off to the engine bay.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#8
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I'd stick with the rod system that's inherent to the older style. Work out the maximum travel needed at the pedal and at the throttle linkage - make up a bell crank to apply the correct travel. (I'm not quite sure where you'd mount it - post up some engine bay pictures if you need ideas)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#9
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That's an awesome idea stretch.
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CC: NSA All things are burning, know this and be released. 82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin 12 Ford Escape 4wd You're four times It's hard to more likely to concentrate on have an accident two things when you're on at the same time. a cell phone. www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there? |
#10
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Can you adapt the mechanical rod linkage from a 126/603 to the 606 so you can keep the 460 pedal?
Sixto 83 300SD 98 E320 wagon |
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