Nope .

My cell 'phone doesn't do E-mail, may be my low price cellular service there .

I can if I go to any Apple Store and connect to their service, this is free but a PIA .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I don't have a cell phone and don't really know how to use one unless my Wife tells me what buttons to push.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I'm not that far removed from you ~ my old cell 'phone was dead simple : I bought a patch cable and plugged it into my computer then followed the prompts .

Had I any idea this iphone was such a PIA I'd never bought it .

Lovely photos though .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

So you essentially need four Astoria 3001 axle boots correct?
I have a 300SDL.

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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

My information suggests that a 300SDL might have annular axles. If that is the case, the axle can be disassembled without special tools, making the use of a flex boot unnecessary.

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

Some sites say that even later model 123s have annualar axles. But not the case on my 85 300D. So best to have look at diff end to see if the axle is connected with a bolted flange.

After looking at all options, seemed to me that buying a pair of new aftermarket axles was about same or lower cost as flex boots plus tools. Later, I might reboot the originals and keep them as spares.

But for now, I filled cracks and coated with 3M 5200 high strength polyurethane adhesive sealant. Allowed time for full cure after several coats. So far so good after a month or two.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

I wouldn't recommend this. I did it to an axle, and it ended up failing after about 50K miles. The problem is that you can't really get in there to clean. Not only do you do a poor job of removing the old lube, you end up with a combination of dirt, lube and solvent in the can. Then there's no way to squeeze the new lube into the bearings, so you are dependent on random mechanical action to move the lube into place. If your axle was filled with oil, just drain it off. If it was greased, mechanically remove what you can reach. Then install the new lube and be done with it.

And there was an identifiable connection between the failure and the flush?

The original lube was gear oil. Perhaps you are making recommendations not relevant to the subject vehicle.
Whatever vehicle you are dealing with, if your flushing procedure ADDS dirt to the equation, you might want to rethink your technique.

If the oil will pour off (and it will), so will whatever solvent is used to flush the joint.
Finish up with a non-residue solvent like brake cleaner, blow out with compressed air, and there won't be anything worth considering left behind.

Anyone with two hands can generate all the "random mechanical action" required.

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

7 weeks and about 1000km later Today I jacked diff up, rotated the wheels by hand and inspected the boot crack repair done with 3M 5200 a while ago. Looks fine - In fact hard to see where boots were repaired. The black 5200 looks same as the original rubber. I will check from time to time, but so far so good.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Thanx for the followup .

? Maybe you could drive two wheels up on the curb and get a photo ? .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I was going to take a photo, but decided it would show nothing. But I could post one if you like!

Added:
Here we go diesel dandy. Pic below. All 4 look about same and they had the typical cracking before.



Only materials used were 3M 5200 Black and some acetone. Tools were brass brush, toothbrush, a strip of sand paper, glue brush to spread the 5200.

To apply: Rear wheels off ground and rotate by hand. Roughen up surface a bit with coarse sandpaper & brass brush. Thoroughly clean with acetone again using brass brush or toothbrush. Squeeze on some 5200 in stretched area. Dab it into cracks first. Then "paint" it over entire surface. Try to build up some thickness. Leave car jacked and rotate wheel from time to time until 5200 firms up. Give a second coat before 5200 fully cures. Repeat turning wheel until it firms up.
Best to not use car for about 3-5 days after final coat. Cures faster if humidity is high. Slow in dry conditions.

Seems Fast Cure only available in white.
Black Standard 3M 5200. https://www.westmarine.com/buy/3m--5200-polyurethane-adhesive-sealant-black--124778
White Fast Cure 3M 5200. https://www.westmarine.com/buy/3m--5200-fast-cure-polyurethane-adhesive-sealant-tube-white--292592?recordNum=1

Used the 5200, because it has excellent adhesion to almost anything. Other products may work, but this was one that I had experience with in marine applications.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Please do ! .

I know many here will be interested to try this, please include pix of the materiels used .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I had a quick look today. It's been a while since 3M 5200 was applied, but maybe only 2 to 3k miles.

Pictures are not too good, but I could see some surface cracking, but likely in new places. Boots are still intact. If nothing else, using a sealant like 5200 may buy owners some time.

I will jack car up, clean off boots and get a better look in a month or two. Going to check with one shop that said they could re-boot. Otherwise it will have to be aftermarket axles. Then work on rebooting originals in my spare time

Attached Thumbnails

   

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Graham, as per your instructions, I did this myself. Have done about 400 miles since, and it's holding up gloriously. Looks like a brand new boot. That stuff though... wow, have never handled anything quite like it. Certainly confidence inspiring.

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

Glad to hear it. I think I will jack car up once it warms up a bit and have a closer look. Then patch anything that looks suspect. Might buy another years use

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5