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#1
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Stuck on V-Belts: ALternator bolts frozen and tension bolt broken
I am nearly finished with my water pump replacement, but I am stuck on the belts.
The alternator bolts are completely frozen in place. I've heated and soaked them in penetrating oil. I eventually got the bottom bolt to break free using a vice grip and mallet ![]() How the heck do I get to the three bolts in the rear? I have the turbo in my way. Also the bolt that adjusts the tension is broken. I feel as if this should be significantly easier than this appears to be.
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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone. |
#2
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If you have a 1985 300DT - 348,000 there are only 2 bolts holding the alternator in. You got the bottom one and there is one on top that holds the tension bracket to the block. Did you loosen the 17mm nut on the back side of the bracket that locks the tension bolt in place?
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'70 F100 shortbed '82 Diesel Westy '83 Euro 300TD Curtlo Viper Yeti ARC Surly long haul trucker |
#3
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I loosened one 17mm bolt that is directly in front of the engine near the water pump and lower crankshaft.
If i'm laying underneath of my car there is a 2nd bolt that I loosened using my vice grips and a mallet. How do I take care of this broken tension? The archives are a bit vague on this. It's broken exactly in the middle of the bolt.
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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone. |
#4
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There is a 17mm nut on the back side of the tension bracket that locks the tension nut in place. I'm lost without pictures.
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'70 F100 shortbed '82 Diesel Westy '83 Euro 300TD Curtlo Viper Yeti ARC Surly long haul trucker |
#5
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I can see the bolt you're referring too, but there is no way I can get to it without removing the turbo.
Crap. ![]()
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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone. |
#6
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Something is not right here. Can you get a flex ratchet on the nut facing the firewall on the back side of the alternator bracket? The turbo should not be an issue.
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'70 F100 shortbed '82 Diesel Westy '83 Euro 300TD Curtlo Viper Yeti ARC Surly long haul trucker |
#7
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I am not sure if this is the Alternator Bracket that you have. It is the same type as on my 84 300D.
The yellow Arrow points to the 17mm Bolt that needs to be loosend in before you try to move the Tensioner.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#8
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Now your talking (showing).
![]()
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'70 F100 shortbed '82 Diesel Westy '83 Euro 300TD Curtlo Viper Yeti ARC Surly long haul trucker |
#9
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Ahh! That makes sense now.
Figures right after I completely sear off the rest of the tension bolt arm ![]() I don't own an flex wratchet sadly. I'm trying to figure out what the hell can get back there. This is absolutely miserable. Why did they have to make this so difficult when rusted ![]()
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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone. |
#10
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Quote:
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#11
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Eye bolt alternator tension bolt
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I got around to taking picture of the new tension bolt. The fix is incredibly strong. Germans like to make everything unnecessarily complicated
![]() I've attached it below for reference to any other poor souls who cursed as much as me. Total cost of everything was $4.15 ![]()
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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone. |
#12
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When I removed my Alternator I removed the 2 bolts that held it to the Block and took the Alternator out with the Bracket still on the Alternator.
I did that because not realize the 17mm Bolt needed to be loosened and it was the only way I fitured to remove it. If the skinny threaded part of the Tensioner is busted off you can replace it at over $40 each or find another way to tension the Belts and hold the Alternator in place while you lock down the 17mm Nut. If you decide to replace the Tensioner Bolt but are unable to use to origiona Tensioner Nut (I have not seen any part places selling the correct nuts) you can do as this guy in the other Forum did. He used 1 regular nut, 1 self locking Nylock type nut and a washer (he bought a new Tensioner Bolt).
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#13
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Thanks for the help guys. I finally got the bolt off. With much celebrated fan fare.
The entire bolt is entirely unusable. I am going to have to have to replace this. There was a post somewhere in the archives about a guy making a cheap one rather then a MB replacement. Time to start searching.
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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone. |
#14
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Quote:
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... ![]() 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles ![]() 1987 250td 160k miles English import ![]() 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles ![]() 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#15
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There was a thread some while back, where the guy buggered up the tentioner bolt. so instead of buying a new $40 bolt, he cut off the small rod that fits into the bolt head. He used an "Eye" bolt with a machine thread on the other end. slip the long bolt through the "Eye" end, then the threaded end will fit in the adjustment end with a nut and washer.
Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
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